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#1438349 Sun Jan 23 2022 01:00 AM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 350
F
'Bolter
Getting bed put back together. Things are fitting decent. I have all fasteners loose fitted.

When I tighten things home do I just pull the top of the bedsides in to where I want them and tighten the bottom bolts on the rear cross member?

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Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Sun Jan 23 2022 01:00 AM.

1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,638
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
That's the normal practice - square the sides up and tighten the bolts. On AD beds, the rear of the bedside was also welded to the rear cross sill. Don't know if that's what was done on your year range.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,710
'Bolter
I used a strap to pull in the top of the bed side. Worked easily.


HB

1966 Chevrolet K-10
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1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,598
L
'Bolter
Yes, the rear lower cross piece that’s below the tailgate is welded to the bedside in a 1965 C10. As you tighten the bolts, check squareness by measuring from front to rear corner diagonally and make them match.

Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 350
F
'Bolter
It was welded on the side that had damage, but not on the side without when I took things apart. Mine is a 66. If I don't like how it is once final assembly is done I guess I can always go under and weld it in.

Not much holds these bed sides up. No running without a tailgate, that's for sure.

I think it fit well enough together to move onto the next step. I got primer on remaining pieces and will order the tintable liner tomorrow.

I am going to spray everything once while it is in pieces to make sure there is a durable coating on all sides in holes etc, then assemble. Once assembled I am going to spray additional coats to make sure it all matches.

I think some of the rot issues we have is they primed, but assembled and then painted. I see no evidence of paint between the panels where they attached. Hoping I am setting the stage for a long trouble free finish.

Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Sun Jan 23 2022 08:16 PM.

1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,010
B
'Bolter
I would loosen the front bed bolts too. Then tighten the bed where you want it. The tighten the front and rear bolts. Then weld the rear cross brace.

Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 350
F
'Bolter
Hmmm. I am going to paint and then assemble, with the intent of painting another coat after assembly. I guess I could grind off and weld and then shoot it again.


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.




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