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#1447324 Thu Apr 07 2022 01:38 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,716
S
'Bolter
Stopped in a NAPA store yesterday to check on a new valve cover gasket for my newly acquired 235. Found out there are two sizes, a 5/32” and a 7/32”. Which one should I get? I’m leaning towards the thicker of the two.

I’m curious why there are two different thicknesses?

Last edited by Spotbiltxo; Sat Apr 09 2022 03:26 AM. Reason: Added “gasket”

Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,572
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Originally Posted by Spotbiltxo
Stopped in a NAPA store yesterday to check on a new valve cover for my newly acquired 235. . . .

Most likely your question is about a new/replacement valve cover gasket?

My guess is the reason for two sizes/thicknesses is to help with warpage/lack-of-levelness in the valve cover?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 164
A
'Bolter
Load spreaders are a good thing to include in the swap.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,220
B
Curmudgeon
Overtightening the thin metal valve cover is a typical source of leaking.
Using spreaders help.
I straighten my valve cover before using a new gasket.
It is the nature of real cork to oil soak a little in order to seal.

One of the most discussed topics:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1078707

Silicone instead of cork:
https://realgaskets.com/product/csc1-side-cover-gasket-6-cylinder/


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,597
F
'Bolter
spotbiltxo Would go with the thick one for warp reasons as was said. I like to put a thin coat of gasket maker on the gasket then wash the head flat surface clean and dry .Put the gasket on so it is like a dam to the oil then tighten the cover while the gasket maker is still pliable. If you don't put gasket maker on the top gasket surface may be able to take it on and off when needed. But of course it will soak up oil worse so your call . My .02 cents If you wait overnite before starting so your stuff can set up may not get oil soaked as soon .

buoymaker #1447500 Sat Apr 09 2022 02:59 AM
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,597
F
'Bolter
buoymaker Ever have a neoprene gasket ?? It'll get slimy like an eel so you can't keep it under the cover one of those was enough. Never did try to glue it down though,that might have worked better.

Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,597
F
'Bolter
Also learned not to use indian head shellac especially on the side cover,hard to get it off and hard to scrape clean,lot of loose cork to get in the engine

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,220
B
Curmudgeon
If anyone has used silicone valve cover gaskets on their Chevy I6 and have found it not to work well, now is a good time to share details of your experience with the forum. I for one have only used cork because that was what was available at the time.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,075
J
'Bolter
I remember seeing folks talk “about” that silicone gasket, but had hard time finding anyone with an actual report on how it performs.

I’d like to know as well.

Last edited by JW51; Sat Apr 09 2022 01:23 PM.
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,132
D
'Bolter
I used one on this motor. You have to look but it’s there. It worked fine. I changed back to a cork only because the orange clashed. That, and I did not have a purse and shoes to match.

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Last edited by Dragsix; Sat Apr 09 2022 09:01 PM.

Mike
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