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Has anyone replaced the cab floor on a 1958-59 panel truck?

I have this floor but will have to be cut

Well wish me luck.

Luck!!!!

Yikes! I don’t see any bracing on the body. Did you cut out the floor without bracing the body first? If so you set yourself for a nightmare piecing it back together and getting everything to fit properly.

What Phil said about bracing. Your best approach would be to hang the doors back on and align them with proper gaps front, back, and top (or beltline matched), then install some bracing to hold that position. It'll be much harder to do, but, like Phil said, if you get it wrong, depending on the floor patch panel for location, you'll be up a creek when it comes to refitting the doors. If there's a Factory Assembly Manual for your year, you MAY be able to use weld checking dimensions from that, but the original doors would be a better approach.

Please take a step back and do some bracing.

Good Luck.

Hey thanks. The dash is supported. Thats all thats there. I have to get the floor in
before I can put in the pillars.
Front clip is off. That`ll be all brand new.

I see that the dash is blocked up, but you don't have anything that I can see that would prevent the bottom of the door opening from spreading or shrinking. That's the critical part. You really need bracing to hold the cab in the correct position front to back at the bottom of the door and also something to prevent the door opening from becoming distorted diagonally.
It should look like this: [] and not like this: //
It really doesn't take much to get too far off for the doors to fit. Are you saying the lower hinges are not there?
The front clip is a totally different thing.
If you don't have one of these [classicparts.com] you definitely should order one. That link isn't the only source.

I replaced the entire front steel floor section on my suburban - with minimal bracing at first. I put the doors back on - and used a couple ratchet straps to get the gaps close and then welded a couple braces. All of this after the fact of cutting out the old floor...and wish I knew that beforehand. Just like woodworking nothing is fatal except a good fire - but there are some things to prep and think ahead of time to prevent a lot of work later. So - rehang the doors - check the gaps, make sure it is latched - use what you have to push, pull, adjust, and get them close and brace it - then do the same on the other side.

I give you a lot of credit - what you're doing isnt' for the faint of heart - but do-able. The trick is to think three steps ahead.

I`ll be the first to admit I don`t know what I am doing. I have exhausted
all hopes of finding anyone that can do the work. Nobody wants to and
I don`t want to beg. So, I'll try myself. I have enough money and time.
We`ll see. I`ll either end up with something decent or a pile of junk.
I have no other avenues.

Only doors are the originals. They are in decent shape cept for the very bottom.
I have the panels. But past my expertise to repair. New ones were ordered but now backordered indefinitely.
I also have brand new hood and fenders.

Keep at it...and as you fit and align the doors and floor - post the pics here and others here will guide you...and by sharing you will be showing others who need to do the same. Hat is off to you... one step at a time - walk away at times if you need to, and come back to it with renewed energy and fresh eyes. Others here with the same cab type may be able to take measurements for you and post photos here of those measurements to guide you.

Good project!

Can you post pictures of the door opening including the pillars? We need to see what you are working with. The outside of the doors too.

Hey thanks guys!! I figure its worthy. 1958 Apache 1/2 ton economy.
With all the knowledge here ,I might be able to get thru this.
This is my plan. With pics and measurements, I should be able to raise the floor where the old one was.
The 2 humps off that back rail I will have to remove so the wood fits down
along side the hump/ridge. The angle strip will marry the floor and wood together.
Level the floor and lay the upper floor repair panels ontop of the 3/4 floor.
This should help keeping the dash and pillars straight. Still with bracing once floor is in.
Its amazing what survived on this truck. Id say about 5/8 ths of it was there.

Some pics of the truck before I removed the body

It looks like the lower hinge on the driver's door is gone, but I would still remount the door with the upper hinge and even tack it in place after you get the gaps adjusted. Then go inside (or crawl under ) and weld some bracing across the inside of the door opening, as far down as you have solid metal on the A and B pillars, and another up near the belt line.
Your plan with the floor is good except that you have no good reference currently for the front to back dimension. DO NOT depend on the replacement floor pan to be correct.

You should be commended for taking on that project. As the other guys have said, take it one step at a time, and DO ask for help here. We want to see the finished project. We can help you produce something you can be proud of.

You can do it.

Brace brace brace brace, attach the doors, fit and brace brace brace. I can’t emphasize enough brace. You have already gone too far without bracing. Step backwards and correct your mistake before going forward again. Aftermarket floor pans are NOT perfect. Im just emphasizing what everyone else has told you. Do not ignore this free advise.

Thanks!! The pillars are shot with no way currently to mount a door.
I can brace and mount the doors to whats left of the top and back hopefully.
Make sure the steps line up with the doors.
The doors are another thing. I bought a new tig digital welder and
hope to get some lesson on using it to install the lower repair panels.
I have one cut and fitted. Waiting on a inside hinge plate.
Fun stuff!! I can rewire a truck ,bed wood , leaf springs , brakes, gas tanks...stuff like that.
This is all together different for me. I will back up , slow down.

Good news is that everything forward is brand new.

Unfortunately, I hate to break it to you, that is both good and bad news. After market sheet metal is notorious for not fitting properly. Many bolters have drove themselves near crazy trying to get the gaps and alignment to factory specs. A good example is a fellow bolter “Fox”, that bought an entire new bed for his build and ran into issues when the tailgate didn’t match the rear right bedside. Here is a link to that post. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ndpa-s-1970-c10-rebuild.html#Post1446340

The front end is another hurdle you sill have to tackle, but you have to get your cab together first. Don’t look that far forward, as you will only get discouraged. Take the job at hand and research. That is what this forum is for, so you don’t make the mistakes that we bolters already have.

If it was my project, my first thought would be to reinstall the old floor temporarily with tacks, then brace the doors.

If that isn’t possible, I would hang the doors back on (don’t fix them yet, use them as is because you will use them to locate the lower hinge and fixing them now will only compound the issue), even if you have to tack weld an angle iron across the skin of the doors to the sheet metal on the body to locate the door and establish the gaps then use the lower door hinge to locate the “A” pillar and tack weld it in place. Don’t weld it in completely until you fit the floor and the other associated panels. Next brace the door opening both horizontally and diagonally, then remove the door. This way you will know that the lower hinge and pillar is in the right place.

Good luck and don’t be shy about asking questions.

Great advise. Thanks!!!

I do find it quite discerning that the repair panels made in China and Taiwan don`t
fit properly. That/they probably should not be imported. IDK what else to do with the truck but if I am fighting an
uphill battle, thats difficult with my expertise level.
If all this fails, I guess my alternative would be to turn it into a fleet/step side?
Hopefully the frame is not much different than either of those. Would just need a cab.

The patch panels from offshore can definitely be problematic, but they're just metal. You can make them fit with some massaging. Front clip parts may be another issue, but everything can be fixed, given enough time and patience. I think you're cab floor can be successfully repaired. You just have to be sure the dimensions are right. It would be a shame to just replace the body with a pickup cab/bed. Everyone has one of those. Hang in there. You'll be an expert when you're finished.

Hey thanks man! Great news. I guess. I raised the floor where
I thought it should go and placed the lower rear pillar patch panels and
both fit perfect. One thing concerns me is the cross sill originally
had a body frame mount bolt there. The new floor does not look that heavy duty of a sill.
I do have something in mind though.

Looks good so far, but there's fitting and fitting perfectly. Before you commit with welding anything, MEASURE, MEASURE, AND MEASURE AGAIN.

On the body mount hole, there may be a reinforcement piece available. Definitely look into that. Do you still have the original floor to compare?

I do have the original. What I have will work. Its a cut down cross sill
50 inches. I can mount it behind the back of the new floor. And use
one of or drill a new hole there for the skid strips. I can tie that in with the new floor.
The doors look good. My plan current is to tack weld the doors to the
top of frame door and back of opening , after floor is in place ...somewhat.
I wont commit to it till after the doors are in. But so far is looks good.
Even whats left of the hump over the transmission at the front of the truck,lines up
with the new floor. But the left driver side front pillar I can visual see is off. the right side
looks true and straight.
lucky to find this rear cross sill for the very back. Mine was way shot.
I will install it and cross sills ,paint underneath and be ready soon to set on a
readied frame.

These had to be cut out. Careful not to cut thru the cross sill underneath.

Looks like you've thought it out.

Looks like it’s starting to come together. Nice work and good plan!

Between the wood and the angle strip there was some black "caulk" to
act as a sealant? What is a good substitute for this?

I found an extra leaf spring bushing that fits in the cross sill body mount hole perfect.

Got this better back cross sill/deck on today. Top deck is dented some

Floor is in! I used non-hardening silicone sealant side
and bottom. Pretty solid . I want to move forward slightly
with the rest of the floor ,the new one lacks. The panels that
go part way up the firewall. Can I rivet those in or ...?
They match up perfect to what is there.

corner

far as I can tell every thing lines up. The floor has to sit 3/16ths of an inch lower
because of its made for a cab truck. The cross sill body to frame mount will be
weak because of the gauge of metal used on the new.
I am asking can I lay the upper floor repair panels over the new floor ?
I plan to use short carriage bolts. About 9 per panel. 3M panel adhesive
where they overlap. If anything I`ll gain some floor height heading up the firewall.

Lining up great

full pic

Boy does that look nice. What a difference.

Thanks!!

So I went ahead and planned to get the body back on the frame
before moving with any more sheet metal work. All the mounts to frame are
ready. 2 back deck , 4 at the bed.2 under the seat and 2 right there at your feet.
I used POR 15(4 cts) on the wood and surrounding metal. Turned out great with the wood grain
still showing thru the battle scars. Real hard finish to it.
Had to cut some pieces to make up for the
distance on the fleetside shortbed skid strips.

We are VERY exacting on panel replacement and gaps since a botched job costs us serious money where the hobbyist is out sweat and labor. On total floor replacement we fit the doors, with no hinges, into the body and shim till they fit the opening. The doors are then welded to the body with 4-6 good tacks on the front edge and rear edge. Bracing installed at this point so doors can be removed and floor/rockers/pillars/cross members can be welded in. Pictured is a 37 Chevy Business Coupe that the entire floor AND firewall was replaced (firewall to accommodate a big block engine).



Bracing installed but not in way of door fitting hole:

[](https://postimg.cc/3dyn8NRV)

Doors shimmed for fit before welding:
[](https://postimg.cc/Hcxb6v8R)

All gaps MUST be thickness of a paint stir stick:
[](https://postimg.cc/9Dm0PR7N)

Body molding lines and door gap:
[](https://postimg.cc/SJ3qRnGM)

New floor and firewall:
[](https://postimg.cc/cgxG2wdV)

very nice. I don`t have a restoration shop. No one wanting to take the job on.
I will do the best I can as a hobbyist with the limited tools and accessories.
Right now I need to figure out how to get the body back on the frame.
Before I used cinder blocks , two 12 ft 4x4 and a bottle jack.
But that option is not up with the steps installed.
I have a 5000lb pulley and a 10,000lb winch and straps. Trying to figure
out using a spreader bar to keep the body from being "pinched" when raised.

Do you have a engine lift and a buddy (or rental) with one too? You could use two, one from the drivers or passengers door and one from the back using a couple of 4x4’s fastened to the end of the boom and passed thru the windows.

Here is how we lift bodies for S10 swaps as it leaves the floor under the cab/frame free of any hoist legs. The chain is bolted to the top door hinge bolt which is strong enough that no sheet metal damage will occur. A test lift is done and weights added front/rear to gain level balance. Once level the chassis can be rolled under the cab with nothing in the way.

In this case a 100# tractor weight was hung on the radiator core support, Without front clip weight is hung on firewall:
[](https://postimg.cc/7f6kzrHQ)

Level cab is suspended in air ready for chassis to be rolled under it. Note chain can be seen just behind radio antenna:
[](https://postimg.cc/n9p8d6fg)

Your floor is really good for no bracing used.

Thats a thought. thanks

Bout there

With some great help from Wicruiser , we were able to get the body back on the frame.
Holes lined up. Very nice. Thanks so much Roger.
Some great people here on the Stovebolt.

Also wanted thank especially, Dan at Advanced Engine Concepts for
coming out to the house and helping me with my project. Best engine guy in this area.

Quick description. I bottle jacked the rear of the body and put the body on 4x4`s. Removed cart.
12 foot with short 4x4`s ontop that were on the wood floor sills clearing the fenders.
Placed front to back. (2) 12 footers were side to side.
Using an engine lift we got the front up higher that the rear and strapped the front to the
ceiling of my hanger from the window openings. pulled the lift out. Took the rear wheels off the frame and
placed pumpkin and frame on furniture low profile dolly.
Rolled it underneath the body and put the wheels back on. Took about hour and a half.

Will I have any problems running dual exhaust to the rear of this panel? The gas tank location
looks concerning.

Image didn't load correctly?

I guess right at the time of host providing.

My engine arrived. Thinking how best to get around gas tank
with exhaust pipes.

Looks like 2 into 1 rather than dual exhaust would make things a lot easier. If you are set on dual exhaust your going to need to cross over twice, once near the transmission and once behind the rear axle.

2 into 1 sounds good to me.

I got the engine in. Put it in the 1959 Apache.
M-22

Looks like you are making good progress.

I am, but now I need to put in the hurst shifter and linkage. Cut hole.

Seats are in. Trany and shifter/linkage hooked up. Should be able
to crank her up soon. Shout out to Dan Timm for helping me with the 327!!!
https://www.facebook.com/TimmMotorsports/

That's great progress.

I am sure it will be a banner day when you get the engine fired up.

Yep, getting close. Here is what I used for the exhaust.
Heat shields.

Wow awesome job. One thing caught my eye, something about silicone sealer? Never use that on a body, it won't last paint won't stick to it. Always use a seam sealer instead.

Latest pic. Recently replaced license plate light on back door.

Looking good!

Nice to get all the brake work done.

License light

Took this lull as an opportunity to paint the floor.
Still needs 1 more coat. I was thinking about a clear top coat.
Its an oil based paint. What`s a good choice?
EDIt.. I think I`ll use this. I have a couple quarts.

Of cousre there is not a set of these precut available.
I made a set for a short bed stepside(7)strips work.
Only needing 5 I had 2 to cut up the for the fill.
I was able to match up 3 factory hole spacing. Not quite finished.
Just took the time to take this pic.
Little trick.... to keep the bed bolts from pushing up while
your underneath. I used my diving weight belt laid across the top of the bolts.

Looking great!

Thanks!! Soon I hope to be holding title and tags.

bumper on! The driver side is about 1/3 inch too high.
What the best way to adjust that down?

I suspect the bumber bracket bolts to the frame can be loosened and the bracket "adjusted" to lower the driver's side and/or the passenger side higher.

Thats what I was hoping. Thanks!

Looking at my 58 the bumper on this 59 needs to tilt downward more.
To where my finger just can get under to the bumper filler.

I ended up setting the bumper up on crates so it fit level and
where it needed to be in relation to the bumper filler and fenders.
Marked and drilled new holes in the brackets.
I guess the new bumper is not precise.

Bumper level. New tires

Looking good, now if we could just get this winter weather to go away.

Yeah, it looks like I will have to replace at least one front leaf spring.
That'll make 6 total ,if not 7 in less than a year. The front is listing to the driver side.

Guitplayer,

Just an observation, but changing just one leaf spring can create an unsafe condition when driving.

IMO, best choice is to replace both springs on an axle (front or rear) when there is a need. May be a bit more money, but in my book a safe drive is far better than the alternative.

Just my .02 worth.

Dan

I think you are right about that. I always replaced both before F+B .
I was hoping I would not have to this time.
I have 2 fronts that I took off another 59 that had the bottom leaf
flipped to the top and made the truck sloppy and bottomed out.
I flipped them back to underneath and wondering if they may work.
I put new ones to replace them.

here are the 2 springs I have. They might still be good.
Maybe someone has one they can measure upside down like this to see
if mine are really worn. It is at 6 1/4 inches at the arch.
I like the idea of using these being they may be slightly worn and
not too stiff. New ones are really stiff new.

Guitplayer,

Attached are some screen shots of data I was able to find in a web search on "specs" for the '58 front springs (found at https://www.truckspring.com/) that may help you confirm these springs are correct for your planned use. I used the original GM Part Number "3719560" from a Chevy Master Parts Catalog and your vehicle info to help locate these tidbits.

Also included their diagram on how/where to take measurements of your springs to help compare with the listed spring specs. If you remeasure your springs and the numbers match these specs (A and B lengths, width, spring stack thickness and Arch height) you may be able to ring the "winner-winner-chicken dinner bell". (Just an educated guess on my part.)

Let us know what you figure out.

Dan

PS: Also included a snap of the rear spring data in case you may need that down the road.

Very nice!!!! Thanks. I will check that tomorrow. Its for my 1959
but should be the same as 58.
Hopefully it will save me some money.

I just went ahead and ordered new front springs.
Its too much work for me to gamble on an unsurity.

I think all will agree that the "safe" choice is always the wisest!

If you don't mind sharing, who did you order them from?

Also interested to hear your thoughts on product when you get 'em.

Dan

Sure will. The part s will come from Classic parts.

I plan to put the new ones next to my possible good ones
and the worn collapsed spring for a pic.

Tags arrived. Got it up to around 65mph.
Steering a little sloppy. I have seen worse.
Needs leaf springs. Sway bar..I have.
Power steering box. Just got.

Great, sounds like the weather and the tags arrived about the same time to allow a test drive.

Thats right! Dan pulled the 327 in my other truck. I will put
a M-22 RC in instead of the 3 speed OD warner. He`ll check some things inside the engine.
Put on a new clutch plate. Maybe upgrade the alt + Power steering brackets.
Its needs wider belts.

The front bushing I cannot seem to free up.
I have the "U" bolts off the frame and the rear bolt bushing out.
This one I cannot unthread.
Does anyone know a shortcut either cut the bolt or the hangers to
remove the leaf spring?

You can cut the shackle bars and deal with the bolts and bushings later. A replacement shackle comes with all that stuff. Once the shackle and spring are out of the way, use a ball joint press (rental/loan from your FLAPS) and push the bolts and bushings out of the frame and spring together.

[on edit} Actually you should be able to knock the shackle bars off the bolts, except the one where the nut is still on it (I assume you can get that off.) Take a hammer and large punch and drive them off the ends.

This is what I am planning.
Cutting the bolt there at marks will release the spring.
With new springs and one new shackle kit, I should be able to keep
both hangers and top bushing bolt.

Just a suggestion, but check those top bushings/bolts to make sure they pivot freely, there is no slop and that they will take grease or you will be having to replace them much sooner than you may like.

Just my $.02, but you are already this far. Go the whole distance and replace them to be sure of safety and longer part life.

The side plates should be able to be driven off the pins, probably just rusted in place. They lock onto the taper of the pins pretty tight by design. Put a punch as close to the pin as possible and alternate hits between the front and back side. Once they break loose they come off pretty easy. Probably best to start with the spring end because once you get the spring released from the frame it is hard to hold things to get the impact of the hammer blow to do anything other than move the whoel spring and whatever it is attached to.

If you resort to cutting anything, the shackle bars would be much easier to cut than the bolts, but as the guys have suggested, the shackles should come apart with a little persuasion by a punch and hammer.
And Dan's suggestion of changing the bushing in the frame (and springs) is one you should take to heart. They'll likely be very worn and deserving of replacement. You won't regret replacing them.

All went well. The upper frame bushing are in great shape and move freely. Its the ones in
the leaf spring eyelet that were rusted solid.
Cutting the bolt and saving the hangers was easy.
Now if the other front one is as bad, using just 1 shackle kit will fix the front.
Shackle kit ...I will not need the hangers or the threaded casing.

The old spring next to the new.
Now thats 4 front leaf springs for 58/59`s in one years time.
the hardest part of this was fighting the old sway bar and shock mount.
That kept slipping off the axle as I jacked it up. Solution was to vice grip them
together just off to the side of where the "U" bolts monut.

I am wondering now if I should have used that small plate
there on the bottom of the old one. It has a second nib .

I believe that "old plate" you are referring to is actual an angled axle "caster" wedge that is required to set the axle position correctly.

It provides a specific degree tilt to your king pin and spindle positions so that steering and alignment function correctly. With out them, you truck is going to really be hard to drive (not to mention kinda unsafe).

Check you shop manual for more details about the wedge and reinstallation of your axle and steering components.

Dan

Easy enough to put back in.

Just an observation on your reinstallation picture.

For safety sake, it is always highly recommended that you use new U-bolts when reinstalling an axle (front or rear). The original/existing U-bolts get stretched when installed (not to mention ours are well aged these days) and additional stretching of old U-bolts could cause a catastrophic failure (think axle separating from spring while driving - yikes!).

Just inexpensive "life" insurance IMO.

Dan

Nothing wrong with these U bolts.

I ran into having to remove the bushing in the frame.

A wonderful difference!!! No more junky truck front end
sounds. Rides smooth on the bumpiest of roads!! Very important
around here. Sits up stronger looking. Like my 58
A must if you have original leaf springs that are worn or collapsed.
That s 7 leafs in a short time.
Note my 58 3100 is minus those angle plates for the spring /axle.
Has handled and continues to handle incredible. I could not imagine
it being any better after new springs and no plate(s).

Sounds great, glad you were able to get your bushing replacement installed and everything back together.

Thanks Wi Crusier!!! Couple other things. I will be
getting a thermal sleeve for the fuel rubber line.
Maybe a thermal shield between carb and manifold.
power steering after I get the black 58 s engine back in and
the M-22 mounted. I have to cut the hole in floorboard and carpet to fit.
I did remove the borg warner 3 speed OD and will sell it.

Got the power steering box in. Tomorrow ...the column and steering wheel. pump and lines.
Painted a spare tire wheel.