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TexApache #1429328 Fri Nov 05 2021 07:46 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,132
D
'Bolter
I am sith sludgeburner, I haveg had really good luck with Penn Grade (formerlly Brad Penn) although I use 10W30 in my early 235/261 motors, all very modified, two with very high spring pressures, not one issue from break in forward. And I am hard on my motors. Semi synthetic with a good zinc package.


Mike
TexApache #1444820 Wed Mar 16 2022 06:17 PM
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 49
S
'Bolter
My 52 motor was “redone” back in 2013/14 and since I’m the third owner and I do not know how many miles or oil changes it’s had since.
I guess it has been broken in at this point, so the manual shows SAE30 but after reading these posts, the percentage of ppl are using 15w-40.
Would detergent or non-detergent matter at this point?


sambo42xa-Sandown,NH
52 Chevrolet 6100 2T

“all my responses are My own opinions and/or suggestions. I do not claim to know all there is to know, but I May have dealt with it before and offering my knowledge”
I can also be a smart censored, but it’s all good, so don’t take offense.
TexApache #1444828 Wed Mar 16 2022 06:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,707
P
'Bolter
Except for the feed pump; 1941-73 relief spring keeps it to 30 psi.

TexApache #1444830 Wed Mar 16 2022 06:51 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,575
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Non detergent oil is good for lubricating squeaky door hinges. Don't get it anywhere near an engine.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
TexApache #1444834 Wed Mar 16 2022 07:09 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 396
O
'Bolter
I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 Diesel oil for the added zinc content.

Re non-detergent oil; I have a friend with a 1934 Duesenberg that can only use non-detergent oil. That's because the engine has never been rebuilt. Using a detergent oil would risk loosening 90 years of sludge inside the engine with potentially catastrophic results.


1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe
1950 Chevrolet 3100
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
1966 Ford Mustang
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150
1995 Ford F-150
TexApache #1444840 Wed Mar 16 2022 09:00 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,132
D
'Bolter
Shell Rotella no longer has the zinc and phosphorus package that it once had.


Mike
Dragsix #1444844 Wed Mar 16 2022 10:30 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,470
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Dragsix
Shell Rotella no longer has the zinc and phosphorus package that it once had.
All the diesel oils got zinc and phosphorus reduced a while back. I think it was when API CK-4 spec oil came out. But I believe they still have as much zinc and phosphorus as common gasoline engine oils.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
TexApache #1444864 Thu Mar 17 2022 01:24 AM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,132
D
'Bolter
That is just the point. The oils currently sold for gas engines no longer have the zinc and phosphorus package that an old motor was designed for and needs. Neither does the rotella. You should be using an oil formulated with the higher level additive package or an additive that contains the required zinc and phosphorus package.


Mike
TexApache #1444882 Thu Mar 17 2022 03:07 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,470
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I looked at some unused oil analyses of older oils at Blackstone, and it appears that gas rated oils got reduced zinc and phosphorus as well. I saw some as high as around 1500 ppm zinc and 1500 ppm phosphorus, and later oils are below 1000 ppm for each.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
TexApache #1444902 Thu Mar 17 2022 12:13 PM
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,420
M
'Bolter
It really doesn't matter. Buy Walmart branded 15w40 diesel oil, keep a check and don't let it get too low, change a time or two each year. Enjoy life.

My Cummins diesel powered '95 dually has 300,000 miles. I used to obsess a bit on everything about my new baby, only ran Valvoline Premium Blue (from the local Cummins dealer) did oil analysis, installed a by-pass oil filter, turned the fuel up a lot (more than doubled hp) drove the crap out of it. For the last 100k miles I've followed the advice in the first sentence above. No oil issues ever. And this is on an engine that's been worked like a dog at times. Max power, 3rd gear for miles at a time pulling a trailer in the Rockies. Our AD trucks live a life of pampered leisure in comparison.

Just make sure it has oil in it and don't use 5 or 0W anything.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



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