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#1444118 Thu Mar 10 2022 12:09 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,716
S
'Bolter
When removing the 235 the PO simply cut off the exhaust pipe with a Sawsall leaving a 16” stub. The flange is welded to the pipe. Once the engine is installed in my truck should I just leave this small pipe in place and weld the new exhaust pipe to it, or should I try to buy a new flange and have the muffler shop weld it to a completely new pipe and go that route? I assume one of the suppliers sells just the exhaust flange.

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Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Spotbiltxo #1444122 Thu Mar 10 2022 12:48 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 681
7
'Bolter
If you are wanting a welded system the new pipe will be a lot easier to weld than the rusty one.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Spotbiltxo #1444127 Thu Mar 10 2022 01:25 AM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 389
O
'Bolter
Why would you even want a rusty header pipe connected to your new engine?

I don't think the flange has to be welded to a new pipe. It can just slip over the header pipe and stop at the flared collar.
\
Are you sure the old one is welded? Maybe it's just rusted in position.

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; Thu Mar 10 2022 01:30 AM.

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe
1950 Chevrolet 3100
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
1966 Ford Mustang
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150
1995 Ford F-150
Spotbiltxo #1444129 Thu Mar 10 2022 01:37 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,404
K
'Bolter
The flange should just slide on the pipe ,when you get your new exhaust they will make it in a few pieces and slide a new flange on with a new donut seal I copied the bend cards if you bring them ti the muffler shop they might help.

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kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage [stovebolt.com]
Spotbiltxo #1444130 Thu Mar 10 2022 01:40 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,563
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Just about any exhaust shop worthy of the name will either have the right flange in stock or at least have access to one. I doubt that the flange is actually welded on- - - -the pipe is probably swaged into the proper shape to seal the bottom of the donut and and then expanded to be a tight fit to the flange. The guy who builds my exhaust systems can do some amazing things with that hydraulic pipe bender. Of course, he's an old geezer like me with 50-something years of experience bending pipe.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Spotbiltxo #1444135 Thu Mar 10 2022 02:24 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,716
S
'Bolter
As you can see, the flange is welded to the exhaust pipe on the backside where it exits the flange. Nice bead weld. There’s no separating the two. I think I like the idea of letting a good muffler shop fabricate a new exhaust system using all new pipe and a new flange. Thanks Kevinski for those bend cards. They might come in handy.

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Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Spotbiltxo #1444136 Thu Mar 10 2022 02:36 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,563
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
OK- - - -that one is probably a factory made direct replacement exhaust pipe, or possibly an original equipment one, although that's highly unlikely, given the tendency of exhaust systems to rust out. Walker, Arvin, and a few other exhaust manufacturers used to sell bolt-on replacement parts, back when there were enough vehicles on the road to justify tooling up to make thousands of pipes at a time.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!

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