The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search
Keep your restoration going

Keeping your resto going

A good bit of advice nestled in the FAQ page.
Don't

Irwin Arnstein working on his
1959 Chevy 1-Ton


Read the article.

Searching the Site

Get info about how to search the entire Stovebolt site here. To do a search for just the forums, get those details in the IT Shortbus fourm.
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
10 members (BC59, buoymaker, JW51, Leo, Flatblu4748, frogfarmer), 83 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums59
Topics128,521
Posts1,041,169
Members46,036
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 26
5
58caddy Offline OP
'Bolter
Hi all! Picked up a gem of a low mileage (7500) farm truck (C60 dump truck) from Texas last week. Lots of good things about the truck, but with such low mileage, there are issues that need to be addressed. I have searched the forums, but the various results are getting a bit overwhelming to keep organized. I am hoping that some might be willing to help me get this truck to reliable function around my small town.

Details:
-'65 C60 dump, cab tag (pic attached) has 19,500 GVW, C15 2spd Rear axle 6.40-8.72, 157 wheelbase, 5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?)
-crate 366 installed five years ago after original block cracked, but I don't see any frame modifications/welds for the motor mounts, so I'm really wondering what block was original
-Intended for demolition/landfill runs over the next six months, then use as a Main Street touring vehicle for visitors

I need the following help:
-Brakes: would like to upgrade to a dual master. Original drum systems don't bother me, but I am hoping to get all new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders replaced. Can someone provide part numbers or guidance on locating the parts? Maybe photos of what you've done for master cylinder upgrades?

-Wheels: tires are in desperate need of replacement but I am far from any fleet services such as ALCOA or Snider, and the smaller shops will not touch split rims. I'd like to get replacement wheels without modification, if possible. 10 hole/5lug on front, 10 lug on rear. I know others have dealt with this, let me know what has worked!

-Fuel tanks: both are dirty, one hasn't been used in a few years. Wanting to get both operational, and clean, with correctly calibrated sending units. Any advice on best way to tackle these? This is my first time dealing with side-mount tanks and any guidance would be very appreciated. For example, would it be best to replace the tanks with new ones? If so, would you recommend specific suppliers?

-Wiring: As with many farm trucks, there has been some "make it work" additions/splices/interesting decisions made. For instance, my dash and cab clearance lights only come on when I press the brake pedal, or sometimes when I engage the turn signal stalk (but still the signals don't work), but the aftermarket hazards work just fine. With this type of stuff, I have often simply located a correct replacement harness and started new. Does anyone have leads for correct harnesses?

I want to use this truck for its intended purpose, and keep it running for a long time coming, as I do with my others. But now that I've entered the medium duty truck world, I could really use the guidance/help of those who have been here before. Thanks in advance for anything you can provide to help me keep this one on the road.

Attached Images
IMG_6534.JPG (112.62 KB, 243 downloads)
IMG_6536.JPG (100.04 KB, 243 downloads)
IMG_6537.JPG (69.66 KB, 240 downloads)

"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw
-1912 Ford Model T
-1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan
-1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special
-1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck
-1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop
-1958 MG A
-1965 Chevy C60 dump truck
-1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402
-1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 26
5
58caddy Offline OP
'Bolter
Just noticed the really obvious tech tip on the wheels...going through that information now.


"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw
-1912 Ford Model T
-1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan
-1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special
-1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck
-1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop
-1958 MG A
-1965 Chevy C60 dump truck
-1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402
-1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,709
F
'Bolter
58 Caddy Sounds like your wiring just has a few things crossed-up. Would study it for a while,it only takes 3 wires to the rear to get brake,tail and turn signal lights. Great low mileage truck good luck.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,532
M
'Bolter
Originally Posted by 58caddy
5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?

Post a picture of the shift pattern on the gear shift knob

Originally Posted by 58caddy
-crate 366 installed five years ago after original block cracked, but I don't see any frame modifications/welds for the motor mounts, so I'm really wondering what block was original

ALL Chevrolet engines except for the 292 use the same motor mounts.

Originally Posted by 58caddy
I need the following help:
-Brakes: would like to upgrade to a dual master. Original drum systems don't bother me, but I am hoping to get all new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders replaced. Can someone provide part numbers or guidance on locating the parts? Maybe photos of what you've done for master cylinder upgrades?

Keep the original Master Cylinder, re-engineering the brake system is not worth the hassle. There aren't any kits made for the big trucks. Drums are made out of unobtanium, turn your drums as long as they are in spec and move on. Master and Wheel cylinders might be available new or can be sleeved and rebuilt. Replace all of the steel a rubber lines, they fail from the inside out.

Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Wheels: tires are in desperate need of replacement but I am far from any fleet services such as ALCOA or Snider, and the smaller shops will not touch split rims. I'd like to get replacement wheels without modification, if possible. 10 hole/5lug on front, 10 lug on rear. I know others have dealt with this, let me know what has worked!

Looks like you have the Firestone RH-5 rims...they were outlawed decades ago because they are dangerous...ton of reading here, do a search.

Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Fuel tanks: both are dirty, one hasn't been used in a few years. Wanting to get both operational, and clean, with correctly calibrated sending units. Any advice on best way to tackle these? This is my first time dealing with side-mount tanks and any guidance would be very appreciated. For example, would it be best to replace the tanks with new ones? If so, would you recommend specific suppliers?

Have the fuel tanks "hot tanked" or chemically cleaned out and then seal them if necessary. Buy a new sending unit to match the tank depth and gauge ohm value.


Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Wiring: As with many farm trucks, there has been some "make it work" additions/splices/interesting decisions made. For instance, my dash and cab clearance lights only come on when I press the brake pedal, or sometimes when I engage the turn signal stalk (but still the signals don't work), but the aftermarket hazards work just fine. With this type of stuff, I have often simply located a correct replacement harness and started new. Does anyone have leads for correct harnesses?

Any pickup truck wiring harness will work, you'll just need to extend the wires to the rear if they are short. I've used American Auto Wire harness kits on my last three project and been very happy...they make all kinds of kits. I found it was easier to just tear all the old wiring out and start over with everything new including the fuse box...

My .02 cents

Mike B smile

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 95
P
'Bolter
I posted this over in the other forum but may as well here also.

The trans should have a tag on the side. It should have all the info you need on it to figure out what it is.

Brakes I can't help with as I have air.

You'll have to look at harnesses from another 1965 truck, a C30 for instance. I could not find anyone that could guarantee the whole harness would fit my 1969 C60. I looked up all the wiring from a C10-30 and what I found was most of the wiring was the same just a different color or route, not all of the harness worked until I replaced everything with the C30 harness. I delt with this place http://www.wiringharness.com/ and took the gamble. If you call them they'll get you taken care of and tell you what harnesses you'll need. All and all it cost me just over $1k for wiring. They custom make each harness and take forever to do it. I was emailed every excuse in the book about lead times.

Be sure to also replace your 2 speed wiring on your shifter, if it hasn't gone bad yet it will soon. That can be bought elsewhere for around $50 if I remember correctly.

I added a used 50 gallon fuel tank to my truck and after draining and playing censored trying to get it clean I ended up draining it and power washed it then used my shop vac to get as much water as I could out. Then power washed it again and again. Multiple fuel filters and a final cleaning it hasn't given me any other issues. I have a 1/2" drain at the bottom of it to allow crud to fall out.

Ohm your sending units, they may work just fine. I wouldn't be surprised if your float fell off or has a pin hole in it after all these years.

Try looking here for tire information. I'm sure what you're looking for is there somewhere.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads...tml#Post867617

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 26
5
58caddy Offline OP
'Bolter
Thank you guys for the push in the right direction. I'm going to get working on the brakes and chasing the electrical, as well as hot tanking the tanks smile I'll update along the way


"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw
-1912 Ford Model T
-1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan
-1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special
-1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck
-1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop
-1958 MG A
-1965 Chevy C60 dump truck
-1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402
-1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 26
5
58caddy Offline OP
'Bolter
Mike, here’s the shifter pic

Attached Images
D2FCBC46-4210-4995-81C7-3ACCE7ACF863.jpeg (154.37 KB, 192 downloads)

"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw
-1912 Ford Model T
-1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan
-1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special
-1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck
-1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop
-1958 MG A
-1965 Chevy C60 dump truck
-1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402
-1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 149
P
'Bolter
Mike is correct on harness except front turn and parking light are separated using single element bulbs, C10 didn't have turn signal on side, but had 1157 double element in hood. If you go with stock brakes I may have some info,Pat

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,532
M
'Bolter
Originally Posted by 58caddy
Mike, here’s the shifter pic

My research shows your rear (6:40/8.72) only came with the Clark 2653V 5-speed, but the 1st and reverse positions on this trans seem to be reversed, so I'm not sure what you have...

We need Kenneth "crenwelge" to chime in and ID your trans...maybe send him a PM with this picture and see what he knows...then let us know!

Mike B smile

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 26
5
58caddy Offline OP
'Bolter
Pat, im sticking with stock brakes, so any part numbers? I found another thread that has Raybestos numbers WC37042 and WC18196 for upper and lower cylinders on the rear, but that’s as far as I can get. I’d love numbers for shoes, and front cylinders. I assume it just best to rebuild the booster? I’m completely open to suggestions. I almost always prefer stock, but I also prefer to stop. smile Let me know any suggestions and/or part numbers. Thank you for offering to help.


"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw
-1912 Ford Model T
-1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan
-1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special
-1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck
-1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop
-1958 MG A
-1965 Chevy C60 dump truck
-1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402
-1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  69Cuda, Grigg 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5