We are still asking: What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
I excited too, anything will beat what I'm working out of currently. I out grew my work shed years ago. We all know how life gets in the way but now I'm going to finally take the time to build something for me.
Last edited by TUTS 59; Sun Jan 23 2022 06:08 PM.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
I like your idea using 2 coarses of concrete blocks and framing up from there. One suggestion I would make is to rod and fill all the blocks with rebar and concrete in addition to your required anchor bolts before framing. In the past, I've always done it (rod and filled) on the most important wall (in my mind) but in every case it would've been a better had I filled them all.
John, I had already thought about that. We may not have frozen ground but we have Hurricanes, I want to have a solid base. I was just laying out where to place the rebar. I plan to set the rebar 4 inches and epoxy them in. I will have 12 inches in the lock to fill with concrete. I discussed the layout with Alvin and the was one of his suggestions. I have a few questions, should I set the blocks back from the edge or flush with it. I shouldn't need to run rebar horizontal with the course should I?
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
I would set the blocks flush with the edge of your concrete pad. That way when water runs down it will go right past and not have a chance to work through any cracks or crevices that may show up over time.
I've only run rebar horizontally in block one time and that's because the block wall is also serving as a retaining wall (holding back about 48" of dirt) due to the slope of the grade. In that case I had two coarses that utilized a v-shaped block filled with rebar and concrete. I believe it was called a bond-beam or something like that.
Unless you will have side pressure against the block I don't think it's necessary.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I built a foundation for a greenhouse and use the blocks with open ends (U-shaped cross section) for the top course and laid a horizontal rebar in there before filling the cores with concrete. That would tie everything together on your foundation. If you're talking rebar drilled in every 4 inches along the wall, that's way overkill, or I'm misunderstanding what you said about that. If you already have blocks with solid ends, if you're careful, you can knock the webs out to give space for a horizontal run of rebar. If you tie the horizontal rebar to the verticals, that will make it pretty much hurricane proof (I welded them together, which was probably overkill, too.) I would set the blocks flush with the edge. That prevents rain from puddling on the slab at the outer edge if they were set back.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's
Concrete block will make it nice for the inside. When you do the 5 year cleaning (10 year?), scrub the floor with a degreaser and hose the place out. You won't have to worry about wood or drywall getting soaked.
I meant setting the rebar 4 inches into the slab. I have the rebar spaced at 16" around the parameter and will fill each core with concrete before setting the J bolts for the sill plates. I think setting the blocks flush with edge makes sense for drainage. I don't think a horizontal rebar will be necessary.
Last edited by TUTS 59; Mon Jan 24 2022 12:39 PM.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Speaking as a former USCG architectural technician, I would recommend that when you've finished the CMU work and have allowed the mortar to cure, be sure to seal the outside of the CMUs with a concrete sealer. If you don't, over time you will see the salt from the concrete (that the blocks are made of) and the mortar driven to the inside and crystalizing on the surface. This is called "efflorescence." This is the same preventative step that should be taken when a basement is constructed. Putting a sealer on the inside surface after the fact is useless. The efflorescence will build up under the sealer and force it off. This was a constant problem in the light house towers that had failing outer protective coatings (usually thick paint), and much newer brick buildings (boat haul-out structures and such) that I dealt with.
Brian
'51 Chevy 3604 Project '28 Chevy LO basket case '83 GMC Sierra 4x4
I put an epoxy coating on my floor AFTER the building was up. I went with a medium gray and left the speckle flakes out of the epoxy. In my opinion, searching for a small screw or washer etc would be MUCH more difficult if the floor was speckled.
