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The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
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this weekend?"

After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.


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What did you get done on your Bolt today????


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1951 gmc 100 228 help.
#1437777 Tue Jan 18 2022 08:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 7
F
'Bolter
Good afternoon! My name is Kyle and I’m new to the stove bolt world. I recently inherited my fathers and I project. It is my grand pas all original 1951 gmc 100 with a 228.
My father was an auto body man for the past 35 years in Washington and started working on this old girl unroll life threw me a curve ball leaving me to finish the project. I’m schedule to get the truck painted next year. While I am waiting I looking for your guys help in finding a reputable machinist that will rebuild my GM 228. I appreciate your time!

Fleischbein

Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437800 Tue Jan 18 2022 11:34 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,756
B
Sir Searchalot
Why are you going to rebuild motor? What do you mean by "rebuild" ? Is it all apart? Frozen? Tried to start it? Are you "new" to motors and mechanics? or "new" to GMC or ? Not much experience in old trucks and motors?
Are you planning on being a do-it-yourselfer or a having-it-done'er ?

What is your goal as far as type of finished truck?

1. Full original restoration?
2. Good daily driver?
3. Modified here and there?
4. Fix it up a little?

The process of finding a local machinist involves, here say, then possible past customers, then a visit to the shops. Do not leave the truck, leave the motor. Sounds like you are just wanting the motor to be "machined" and you will assemble. Being a GMC, there could be some specific motor internal parts. Don't know if any Chevy stuff fits. Be real sure all the parts are actually available, not just advertised as available. Rockauto may be your best bet. Normally you will have to buy some parts and take them to the machinist to measure. Some parts may have to be specified by the machinist depending on condition of bores and other surfaces.

Lots of motor builder members here. they will chime in.


Watch out for careful drivers!!!
I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.
I recommend invoking MIL-T-FP41c when machining and fabricating
I used to think beer was bad for me, so I gave up thinking.
Sometimes no nonsense makes sense, in a sense.
You can't teach a new dog old tricks.
Honk if you're Amish


Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
bartamos #1437813 Wed Jan 19 2022 01:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 7
F
'Bolter
Bartamos I appreciate you getting back to me. We got the motor running and driving 2 years ago. It’s complete right now and still in the truck. I am looking at options right now having someone rebuild it for me vs me doing it my self. I have only really helped my dad rebuild a engine when I was 16 and kinda lost on where to start. I would like to keep It pretty much all original and only convert it to a 12 volt. Thank you again

Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437827 Wed Jan 19 2022 03:00 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,756
B
Sir Searchalot
There may not be any reason to rebuild it, right? that is a can of expensive worms. So as my first question said "Why are you going to rebuild motor?" Do you just think that's what you do in a "restoration" or what?
I can't, and no one can, help you if you don't read and answer EVERY question. Carefully. Each one. Go back and review. Please answer the questions.... because I'm trying to help with:

"kinda lost on where to start."

Already answered about machinist, sort of, until you answer all questions.
Thanks,
glad to help with some advise.


Watch out for careful drivers!!!
I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.
I recommend invoking MIL-T-FP41c when machining and fabricating
I used to think beer was bad for me, so I gave up thinking.
Sometimes no nonsense makes sense, in a sense.
You can't teach a new dog old tricks.
Honk if you're Amish


Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437880 Wed Jan 19 2022 02:56 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,460
E
'Bolter
If it is converted to 12 volts, can use the original 6 volt starter, just do not ‘lay’on it. If a 12 volt starter is used, have to change the flywheel, 6 and 12 volt starters require different number of teeth on the flywheel.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437883 Wed Jan 19 2022 03:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 87
J
'Bolter
Interesting. My used 235 engine including flywheel from Shwanke Engines came with 12v starter and generator. I am keeping my 6v system. My rebuilt 6v starter cranks slow but it does start. Maybe my Shwanke flywheel is for 6v but doesn't care if 12v starter is used...not sure.


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437901 Wed Jan 19 2022 06:02 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 7
F
'Bolter
Good morning. It very well may not need a complete rebuild. I just remember my dad talking about rebuilding it so Im pretty much just Fallowing his wishes. All I know is it needs all new gaskets and some carb work which is a good place to start.
I spoke to a few machine shops and got a few quotes and know it’s not going to be cheap. I just thought it would be a good idea to get it rebuilt so I know what exactly is done to it and while I was able to afford to.

Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437907 Wed Jan 19 2022 06:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 7
F
'Bolter
Buoymaker haha that is funny. It means meat bone in German!

I have heard the same and talk to a few shops that we’re trying to tell me to just put a 270 in it. It’s the original motor that came with the truck and thinking I would like to keep it the original truck that my dad grew up in.
I will look in to those gmc forums. I appreciate your input!

Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437913 Wed Jan 19 2022 06:39 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,331
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I'm with Bartamos. Why rebuild the engine? If it's running and doesn't have significant problems, just clean it up and fix oil leaks if necessary.

On my project, the engine ran when I got it and sounded good. It had a few serious leaks, such as the timing cover seal, which prompted me to fix that and replace a few other gaskets. I did pull the rocker assembly off for cleanup and inspection, which led to the discovery of a bad lifter (upper section loose from the body), so replaced that. It got a fresh paint job, and that's about it. If it gives me trouble later, that will be fixed as needed. I expect it will last me for the rest of my life.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: 1951 gmc 100 228 help.
Fleischbein #1437949 Wed Jan 19 2022 10:17 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,763
J
'Bolter
As others have said, rebuilding a 228 will be quite expensive and some of the parts may either not be available or not available in the size you need.

In 1977 I had a GMC 100 with a 228. It was a fine pickup...had enough power, rode well, sat straight and had no rust anywhere. I would compare the 228 to the 235. Actually for whatever reason the 228 seemed a bit less prone to suffer rear main seal leaks. It is just like the AD or Task Force trucks: the steering/suspension/braking are the 3 most important things on which to focus attention. Those are what can get you into trouble if they're not in top nick. Good luck!


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
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