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Positive thinking ...
We are still asking:
What did you
get done on
your Bolt today
????


The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt
this weekend?"

After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.


Now with pictures
and No BOTS.


So ...


What did you get done on your Bolt today????


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Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1434324 Tue Dec 21 2021 10:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 164
W
'Bolter
I took a quick look and the rear mounts have been disconnected from the cab (same as the front). The passenger side front mount area is pretty rough but the other three mount areas seem pretty solid.
I will reinstall all 4 mount points and make sure the cab floor is the prescribed 7/8" above the top of the frame rails before I cut out anything. I anticipate ordering the two piece floor from Classic Parts along with other patch panels I anticipate needing when I get closer to tackling the cab part of the project.
Thanks everyone for your insight and recommendations. This is going to be a long project so I am not sure when I will be getting to the actual work.


1949/50 3600 Project
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437598 Mon Jan 17 2022 12:48 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 164
W
'Bolter
I ordered and received my cab related patch panels from Classic Parts (very fast shipping and no parts back ordered!).

I need to study the parts more but interested in member's experience regarding sequence of patch panel installation, primarily the inner cowl and floor areas. I don't want to cut out too much at once and loose the integrity of the cab but at first glance it appears that if I cut out both the floor and the inner cowl areas I will have better ability to install the inner cowl patch panel. Generally the inner cowl is only poor along the fender arch, the passenger side floor is poor along the firewall and cab mounting area, the driver's side floor is only poor along the firewall. The outer cowls are only poor near the bottom but may need to remove more of the original panel to access the back side of the inner cowl.

It will be a while before I actual start into the panel work as the building the truck is in is not heated and it is cold this time of year here in WI.


1949/50 3600 Project
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437655 Mon Jan 17 2022 07:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,349
K
'Bolter
I have my parts sitting on the floor in a box was contemplating the same thing mine is solid with made up parts from years ago . The floor patch from what I read is a good fit ,the outer cowl I read the same, kick panel or inner cowl seems to need adjustment at the bottom we’re it meets the floor as well as the piece in between .Take a look at Kevin’s klhansen on here he has a bunch of pictures on here maybe in the project journal.

Last edited by KEVINSKI; Mon Jan 17 2022 07:49 PM. Reason: Spelling

kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage [stovebolt.com]
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437658 Mon Jan 17 2022 08:00 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,331
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Here's a sketch I just made of a cross-section thru the cowl area. From memory, so may not be exact, but you can see how the panels are sandwiched together, especially at the floor/rocker/inner cowl/inner-to-outer cowl. You'll need to cut it apart and determine how best to reassemble. As I mentioned earlier, you'll have to do some serious massaging of the inner cowl panel to get it to fit correctly.
As far as the outer cowl, that is the one that's critical as far as making the doors fit with the correct gaps, so that one needs to be at least fit temporarily first. Also, cut only as much as you need to get to solid metal. There isn't a need to get the whole outer cowl off for access, as the inner-to-outer spot welds at the front of it, and the inner cowl can be plug welded to the inner-to-outer from inside the cab.

Attached Files
IMG_4443.JPG (323.25 KB, 193 downloads)

Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437733 Tue Jan 18 2022 01:54 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 164
W
'Bolter
Great information, thanks.


1949/50 3600 Project
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437829 Wed Jan 19 2022 03:03 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,076
5
'Bolter
Did you receive the full size inner cowls? The gray ones? If so, I have a priceless tip which I will offer to you free of charge.
Buy the lower half panels which are in black primer. Many suppliers carry them. These half panels are formed correctly at the bottom, whereas the full panels ARE NOT EVEN CLOSE.
All you will need to do is cut the bottom portion of the full panel off and weld the black half panel to it. Trust me when I tell you that this tip will save you days of ridiculous metal forming labor.
Also, you will likely find that the two floor panels will be about 3/4" too short to cover the width of the original floor opening.
This is not a big deal. All you will need to do is make a small piece to fill the gap where the two floor panels meet at the seat riser.
This gap is located at the center of the transmission hole in the floor so it will be a very small piece to make and weld in.

Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437869 Wed Jan 19 2022 01:28 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 164
W
'Bolter
I did receive the full size inner cowls but they are painted black? I had looked at getting the half panels but was concerned that they were too short to resolve the upper end of the damaged area on the original panels. I could order the lower half panels as you suggest but wonder if the problems that you experienced were related to panels from a different supplier.

I have laid the floor panels over the existing and they seem to overlap rather than having a gap but the assessment is very preliminary.

I did reattach the rear cab mounts to the cab and installed the driver's side front mounting bolt to secure the cab in location. When the weather improves I plan to start work on the passenger side floor/inner cowl area as the mounting hole on that side is in poor condition. I plan to shim the cab floor to the frame as far forward as possible to provide support prior to removing material.

On a separate subject can anyone provide tips regarding running board bolt removal? I am not sure if they are original but the bolts have square nuts and the best fitting socket I have is a 13mm 12-point. The bolts start to rotate once I get the nut loosened and given how everything is tucked up inside the mounting frame and under the running board it seems impossible to access the bolt to prevent rotation. I wouldn't mind cutting the bolts if I can find a way to gain access to ensure that I am not cutting anything except the bolt.


1949/50 3600 Project
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437902 Wed Jan 19 2022 06:02 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,075
B
Curmudgeon

Last edited by buoymaker; Wed Jan 19 2022 06:03 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437917 Wed Jan 19 2022 06:52 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,331
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
If those inner cowl panels include bends at the top end, they are from Dynacorn (see pic), and may fit more correctly than others, although I don't have experience with them. They just look more correct. Carl is likely talking about the ones that are about 3/4 of the full height (stop below the top of the vent opening) that come unpainted. They need work at the lower end, or splicing the short panels to them.

On your running board fastener issue, they're special bolts with an extra large head and a carriage bolt square just below that. If they're spinning in the hole, then you'll need to cut them off. Try tightening them instead of loosening to see if they will snap off. If that doesn't work, you can probably use a cutoff wheel on a grinder to grind the nut away, or carefully use a cutting torch to cut the nuts off. In any case, you'll likely need a new set of fasteners, and possibly repair the running board where the bolts go thru the support.

Attached Files
inner cowl.jpg (14.35 KB, 117 downloads)

Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: 1949 Cab Repair
WICruiser #1437941 Wed Jan 19 2022 09:35 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 164
W
'Bolter
Buoymaker, thanks for the pictures and the information. In your pictures it shows the floor panels done before the outer cowl is worked on which makes sense but it also appears that you did not need to install inner cowl panels. From what I have learned the floor edge is sandwiched between the the inner cowl and the rocker so I suspect that I need to remove both the inner cowl (at least the flange area) as well as the floor to fit the new floor panel in place unless I trim off the flange on the floor panel and butt it up against the inner cowl. I am not sure about trimming off the flange because it adds a lot of stiffness to the panel. My body does not have a driver's side vent that I am aware of but does have a passenger vent (air intake I believe for the heater I do not have).

Klhansen, my passenger side panel stops short of the top of the top of the vent opening and the driver's side is similar height but they are painted black. My panels were from Classic Parts part numbers 44-111 and 44-114. Also thanks for the insight regarding the running board fasteners, not sure why I didn't think about just tightening to break them. As long as I can get decent socket engagement that should work. Getting a cutoff wheel up inside the support channel to cut them seems like it would be a challenge but I do have a Dremel with cut off wheels that may fit if I need to cut some. I am sure I will need new fasteners regardless of how I get the old ones removed. Unfortunately it is cold and predicted to stay that way for at least the next week so and therefore activity is limited to working on patching/repairing fenders, etc. that I can easily carry to the other (heated) shop.

Attached Files
DSC_0409.jpg (208.36 KB, 110 downloads)
DSC_0425.jpg (220.44 KB, 110 downloads)
Last edited by WICruiser; Wed Jan 19 2022 09:45 PM.

1949/50 3600 Project
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