Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Driveline Double Master Cylinder

Any advice on a double master cylinder for my 65 C10. I don't seem to be able to find one on the major suppliers.

Thanks

Was the original equipment MC a dual line? If not, why change it?
Jerry

I would like to change for safety reasons only. It didn't come with seat belts either so I am putting them in for safety (also because of the law).

Everything else pretty much as stock as possible

It's amazing that we have any of these old trucks left to work on. If single line brakes failed as often as the gloom and doom purveyors say, they would have all been wrecked before they were 10 years old. Unless you're willing to install a complete dual line brake system, it's very likely you'll end up with something far more dangerous than an original system that has been brought back to "as new" condition.

I can understand the addition of seat belts- - - -even if you are a good driver, there are people like me on the road with you!
Jerry

Same could be said of certain wheels... joking.

I agree for a different reason. I've found that it works best for me to get everything working as it was originally intended prior to trying to modify or improve it. Getting the brake system working like it should will make it easier to identify faults vs deficiencies. Faults you fix. Deficiencies you modify. Always have a clear understanding what your are dealing with.

Thanks guys that is really good advice. But getting the single cylinder system working would require new brake lines, and since I have to buy them it makes more sense to me to go ahead and install the dual system.

However, and I should have clarified this in my initial post, what I'm looking for is a dual master cylinder without the booster. However I have not been able to locate a dual without a booster from the major suppliers. So I'm thinking I'll have to go with the dual with booster.

That is how I'm thinking. But as I said your posts make a ton of sense.

Brakes are engineered as a complete system- - - -master cylinder diameter and stroke, which controls the volume of fluid moved, and the pressure that's developed, plus the diameter and stroke of the wheel cylinders and/or disc calipers. Then there are such things as proportioning valves and other hardware and plumbing to be considered. To simply swap the master cylinder for a dual line unit without using the entire system it was designed for would require some pretty complex calculations of fluid displacement and system pressure to assure that the brakes would operate as safely as the original one. A drum/drum dual line brake system usually has a MC with equal volume fluid chambers. Those are a little hard to find these days. The last time I can remember owning a non-power dual drum brake system was on a mid-1960's Rambler station wagon.
Jerry

A lot of the after market stuff is based on a Corvette master.

If you're set on doing this, I would call Wilwood and tell them what you have for your outboard brakes and that you want a non-booster dual master cylinder They'll tell you which of their masters will work best for you.

Well it sounds like the simplest and safest approach is to go with the dual master cylinder/booster and brake lines specifically for that particular unit.

What would you guys do in my shoes?

I appreciate your advice.

Make sure your factory equipment is sound and unless you decide to go racing leave it be .
Don't forget the factory brakes were designed to stop the truck with 1000 lbs in the back , and did .

John