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moparguy #1436403 Fri Jan 07 2022 01:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 679
7
'Bolter
Hey Moparguy, from what I have been reading about the half ton kingpins, it looks like the bushings fit without a press AND they say the bushings and pin are already machined to the correct tolerance. The shop manual for my year says this and I've seen it on a utube vid. You might be able to just do it all yourself. With mine I will have to ream the bushings to fit the pins from what I'm reading.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto
moparguy #1436405 Fri Jan 07 2022 02:14 PM
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,416
M
'Bolter
Buckshot, my research agrees with yours on the 3100 trucks. No help for me though since mine's a 3600 (3/4 ton). Even thought many vendor fitment charts show the 3100 (half ton) kingpins (that do not require reaming) working on 3600 trucks, I suspect they are wrong. At least on my truck that's the case.

Kingpins showed up yesterday and no way they'll go into the bushings without the bushings being honed or reamed. Looks like it's going to take a 2 or 3 thousandth cut to get a finger press fit of .001".

I'll break it all down this weekend and install the new bushings, then to the machine shop Monday and reassembly next week (I optimistically hope).

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



moparguy #1436502 Sat Jan 08 2022 12:40 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 679
7
'Bolter
Well I wish you luck, I'm still waiting on my kit, I ordered it using the pin diameter and length, couldn't get specs on the bushing dimensions so I'm just hoping it's right. I think I will take the knuckles to my local machine shop for the reaming as long as the new pins aren't loose in the axle. I thought the 3/4 ton truck didn't use the ball bearing thrust so thats why I figured you were working on a 1/2 ton, sorry to assume.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,416
M
'Bolter
Update and request for advice (read, HELP). Pulled the right side spindle, no big deal at all. Popped out the kingpin with a few serious blows from a 3 lb. ball peen hammer and big punch. Removing the top bushing was about a 5 or 10 minute job with a punch and same hammer. Bottom bushing after 10 minutes had moved about a 1/4". Wait, I've got a 30 ton press in the corner. After a few minutes getting set up, that was about a 2 minute job (after a Loud pop).

Jerry you were right about damage from rough roads causing a damaging hammer effect. Lucky it was the spindle and not the axle. My plan was to not install the kingpin bushings in that spindle ahd have the machine shop mill the damage out, and make a spacer the same thickness as the removed material. But, one of our members responded to my request of a replacement spindle so the repair is hopefully a moot point.

On the "Help" issue. The steering arm on the left side isn't wanting to come off. On the passenger side, after removing the castle nuts I screwed lug nuts on the two bottom bolts and with a few good swift blows drove them out, along with the brake backing plate and pulled the steering arm. That's not working on the drivers side. After a lot of cleaning, soaking with penetrating oil and many healthy blows with the BFH, no movement.

Heat, I'm to the point of using the ox/acy torch to heat the arm up to 400 perhaps 500 degrees and seeing if it'll free up. Thoughts?

The good news is the original tie rod ends and pitman arm ends look pretty good. I haven't taken them down yet, but the round ball/pins are still round with no obvious wear. I was all set to replace them but may not. The end cap was No problem to unscrew and everything looks Ok. Hopefully that'll still be the case when they're all clean and I can give the parts a good look.

RonR


added in edit. Heat, (not a lot) was the answer. Heat and about 15 minutes later and that part of the mission accomplished.

Attached Images
spindle 1.jpg (138.12 KB, 96 downloads)
steering arm.jpg (162.36 KB, 96 downloads)
Last edited by moparguy; Mon Jan 10 2022 11:12 PM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,540
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
There are several new or "like new" Chevrolet king pin bushing reamers on Ebay today, some at ridiculously low prices. Check them out, and you just might find one that's the right diameter. It's also really easy to make a guide pilot for an adjustable hand reamer.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,416
M
'Bolter
Thanks for the headsup Jerry, just got in from visiting two local shops that could do the work in a respectable manner. Both were coming in between $200 and $300. That's with the bushings installed. Just miked the pins at .922 and installed bushings at .890, so with that in hand the plan is to add another tool (or reamer) to the box. This'll be a first time thing for me. Looks to my simple brain like the bushing ID needs to increase by .033 so make a .0165 cut or in reality something like .017. Shooting for a .001 or .002 clearance. Doable with a hand reamer by someone who's a total green hand?

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,416
M
'Bolter
Well, the project moves along....Slowly. After getting some expert coaching (Thanks Jerry!) I've ordered a NOS Snap-on reamer the correct size to do the job myself. Now if it'll just get here. It's not like I don't need to clean and paint and make adjustments till it gets here in a week. One benefit of the delay (I guess) is I'll finally get around to cleaning and flushing and adjusting the steering box and filling with TSC 00 Cotton Picker Spindle grease.

I may have a problem keeping this thing in the road from overcorrecting it'll steer so easy (one can only hope).

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,416
M
'Bolter
The NOS Bluepoint/Snapon kingpin bushing reamer showed up today. Big Thank You! to Jerry for giving me a heads up on this being available. You can see the part number, PN 922 in image 1 below. RR 922 is the actual reaming diameter of .922 which is perfect for the stock bushings and kingpin that is .921 diameter. The other images show how the RR 922 reams both bushings in parallel. The bottom pilot cutters start and center the process and the uppers complete the job. The tool diameter as shown in image 3 keeps the reamer centered as it passes through the bottom bushing.

This is my first attempt at kingpins and it's a fairly easy job with proper tools. I temporarily installed one spindle and the kingpin slides through the bushings and axel with slight finger pressure, zero binding through the full range of rotation. Clearance is .001.

My DD says 3100's don't require bushing reaming, everything bigger does.

I can't imagine anything better than the Snapon tool for this job, unless it's a healthy checkbook. Two local shops were upwards from $300. It's about an hour job once things are clean and bushings are ready to install and the reamer is in hand.

RonR

Attached Images
Ream 1.jpg (122.3 KB, 55 downloads)
ream 2.jpg (168.89 KB, 54 downloads)
ream 3.jpg (93.98 KB, 55 downloads)
ream 4.jpg (137.62 KB, 55 downloads)
ream 5.jpg (152.58 KB, 55 downloads)
Last edited by moparguy; Wed Jan 19 2022 12:33 PM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 679
7
'Bolter
Wow, nice work, thank you for the info Moparguy. I'll have to start shopping for a reamer for mine. My pin diameter is 1.109" but I don't have anything torn down yet cuz it's drivable as is and the pin kit still isn't here. Where did you locate the reamer?


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,416
M
'Bolter
Ebay, I'm no expert but this one might be worth a look. [ebay.com] Not sure about a handle to turn it and you'd have to use shim stock to keep it centered in the bushing you're not cutting. At least based on the knowledge Jerry shared. Hopefully he'll chime in.

Another, [ebay.com] better option.

And another. [ebay.com]

RonR

Last edited by moparguy; Thu Jan 20 2022 12:12 PM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



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