We are still asking: What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
The holes for the mirror mount on one of my doors are stripped out and the holes on the other door are getting close.
Is there a good reason not to just put rivnuts in the stock holes and use machine screws with the appropriate head to reattach them? Welding the stripped holes shut and redrilling them is the more traditional solution, but I am wondering if it is the best one.
58 Apache, long bed fleetside, V8 w/SM420 Drivable but the rear axle needs work.
My 1980 Chevy truck came with the "extendable camper mirrors". They were attached to the door with some sort of rivnuts and stainless steel bolts.
I had a problem with them. When I wanted to remove the mirrors, I found some of the bolts frozen in their rivnuts and the rivnuts spun in the door skin when I tried to remove them.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Based on Gord’s experience I’d put rivnuts in and then tack weld them or just use weld nuts. The ones on Gord’s truck were probably just crimped in. Anti seize on the screws, too.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's
The other option in addition to using the rivnuts shown above, on sheet metal such as your door skin I will use a flat washer on the back side when setting the rivnut to help spread the load out ..
The proper way is to make a nut plate. Like the 67-69 trucks use. Use the gasket as a template for 1/8 thick steel with three nuts welded to it. Hold it up in there while installing mirror. or just reach in and hold a separate nut for each screw. Don't be drilling extra holes.
I don't feel that is an application for a rivnut.
Watch out for careful drivers!!! I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30. I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV. I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal. Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition. I recommend invoking MIL-T-FP41c when machining and fabricating I used to think beer was bad for me, so I gave up thinking. Sometimes no nonsense makes sense, in a sense. You can't teach a new dog old tricks. Honk if you're Amish
Bartamos. A nut plate is a good idea. The door is not flat there, but with a rubber gasket similar to what is on the outside it should be close enough.
Thanks, I should have thought of that.
58 Apache, long bed fleetside, V8 w/SM420 Drivable but the rear axle needs work.
Individual nuts with backing washer would be the easiest. Depending on access. If you can slightly curve the plate to get the proper screw angles, you can thread the plate. Depending on screw size. I don't remember the size. 1/4-20 would take a 3/16 min thick plate.
Watch out for careful drivers!!! I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30. I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV. I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal. Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition. I recommend invoking MIL-T-FP41c when machining and fabricating I used to think beer was bad for me, so I gave up thinking. Sometimes no nonsense makes sense, in a sense. You can't teach a new dog old tricks. Honk if you're Amish
