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The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
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this weekend?"

After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.


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What did you get done on your Bolt today????


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Re: Brake line flare problems
78buckshot #1435822 Mon Jan 03 2022 03:40 AM
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 141
D
Dongray Offline OP
'Bolter
Originally Posted by 78buckshot
You would have trouble with that flare trying to get it leak free. I use an older style flare block, a simple one that is also used for single flares. You might have the raw end a little too proud on the first bubble step and the tubing not being supported enough. Try a very small decrease in depth.

Thanks Buckshot, I tried it and it did seem to make a difference. I still seems to happen occasionally but it better. Figure I will practice some more before giving it a try on the actual line.


1950 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton 3100
Re: Brake line flare problems
Jon G #1435823 Mon Jan 03 2022 03:43 AM
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 141
D
Dongray Offline OP
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Jon G
For years I've said the easiest, fastest, most economical and possibly the safest way is to: 1. measure the length and diameter of all the pieces of line you need. 2. go to O'Reilly's and purchase these (pre-cut with fittings attached). 3. purchase any splitters, connectors, etc plus all flexible lines and 4. install them neatly and without any fuss. Some may be 5 or 6 inches longer than you need? No problem. The stuff bends easily, so just put a couple of small U or W shapes to take up the slack or wrap around into a small loop that will be hidden on the inside of the frame rail. The last time I did this, I believe I spent between $50 and $60 for the hard lines, splitters, connectors...for the entire truck and $30 for all 3 flex lines. Just looking on the O'Reilly's website, here are a couple of examples: 30" copper/nickel line with fittings $10.29, 40" $14.99 60" $17.99 Or you can now buy direct from AGS (American Grease Stick Co): https://agscompany.com/
Good luck.

Jon G, I really considered this but wanted to give it a try. I have a coil of line to work with and if I don't get it figured out after the coil is gone that is what I will do.
Thank you, Eric


1950 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton 3100
Re: Brake line flare problems
Jon G #1435860 Mon Jan 03 2022 03:10 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 6
K
'Bolter
So glad I ran across this discussion. I was considering ordering all brake lines and fittings pre-made from one of the specialty stores. I can get what I need from O'Reilly's!

Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1435880 Mon Jan 03 2022 06:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,252
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Those "pre-made" lines generally need a lot of tweaking, and some just don't fit at all. Using straight lines with flare nuts on both ends, a tube bender, and coupling nuts won't win any concours car shows, but they're probably the simplest, least expensive way to go.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1435897 Mon Jan 03 2022 09:29 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,763
J
'Bolter
Sorry to hear those didn't work for you, Jerry. Were they AGS brand? I can't promise it today, but the last ones I bought were made in the USA and they went on just like magic. There was only one line which was a bit too long and I added a little more arch to the point where it wrapped over to the junction for the front left flex line. The long line (from the passenger side connector piece...by the battery) was originally a split line and it was simple to move the connector to where 2 pieces fit just at the right length. When I looked at their website the other day it looked like they had a nice range of lengths (4", 6", 8" all the way up to several feet in 2 inch increments) made in either flare, bubble end or inverted in either SAE or Metric that you could order directly from them. I tell you in my opinion it was one heck of a lot better than trying to use a cheap double flare tool (which we know isn't worth a spoon of beans) or buying a good one ($$$).


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1435902 Mon Jan 03 2022 10:02 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,252
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Jon, you misunderstand. I use universal lines and splice nuts all the time. I was referring to the ones that are supposedly bent to fit a specific truck frame. Quite often, I've seen those custom line kits that only vaguely resemble what was there originally, and they needed
a lot of manipulating to make them work. It's been quite a while since I've done a complete re-plumb job, so the quality has probably improved.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1435913 Mon Jan 03 2022 10:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 667
7
'Bolter
I didn't even consider ordering custom preformed lines due to my truck being just a little out of the ordinary. It's all 1/4" from the master to the hydrovac and from there to the wheels. At 160" wheelbase the pickup truck lines won't cut it so a 25 ft. roll of cupro-nickel and new rubber lines and I had it made. I flared and bent them to match the old ones as much as possible. I was able to use the original tee's and banjo fittings since they are all brass and clean up real easy. So far so good - no leaks and real good pedal after three years.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto
Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1435958 Tue Jan 04 2022 03:01 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 667
7
'Bolter
Dongray, with the slight crease on the underside of the flare it will put uneven pressure on the actual sealing surface of the flare. The better the flare the easier it will be to tighten it and achieve a leak free joint. If you were working with copper it would form quite easily, the steel or copper-nickel is harder metal and will take a lot more pressure to make the nut squish the sealing face. The flare nut has a matching angle inside of the nut to correspond with underside of the flare and that needs to have a pretty good surface to apply even pressure around the circumference of the flare. Don't get frustrated, keep practicing and you'll get a good feel for it. It's much easier at the work bench to make it right instead of under the truck with brake fluid dripping down your arms.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto
Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1436056 Tue Jan 04 2022 09:49 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,763
J
'Bolter
I understand now, Jerry. You're not the first person who has warned me away from pre-cut/pre-shaped kits.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Brake line flare problems
Dongray #1436164 Wed Jan 05 2022 04:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,511
L
'Bolter
The best flare tool I’ve actually used is the Eastwood flare tool in this video.

https://youtu.be/j4Q2OEaRlFQ

Perfect flares EVERY TIME unless I am careless (in too much of a hurry). I bought a new flare tool that is more portable and have not used it yet. I made a few test flares on some steel line and it seems to be fine. The advantage of the new MASTERCOOL hydraulic tool is that flares can be made “on the vehicle” rather than needing to take the tubing to the workbench. Plus it has more dies to make all sorts of flares that the Eastwood tool doesn’t have in the kit.

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