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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,421
M
'Bolter
The seal on the bottom of one kingpin in missing in action. Noticed this latest issue while greasing the suspension yesterday. Anyone have a fix that doesn't require total kingpin removal? I'm thinking some type split seal or a couple "cut to size" o-rings with a split spacer between them, or my current favorite idea; clean all the crud then apply a thin film of vaseline (release agent) to the king pin and spindle followed by filling the gap with a high quality polyurethane adhesive capped with a protective wrap of super duty tape.

I've just about got the parking brake working, guess this little detour is proof it's always something.

Oh, and Happy New Year!

RonR

Last edited by moparguy; Mon Jan 10 2022 07:00 PM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



moparguy #1435585 Sat Jan 01 2022 09:10 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,155
5
'Bolter
Are you talking about the slightly convex metal slug which is driven into hole of the spindle where the end of the kinkpin is located?

52Carl #1435628 Sat Jan 01 2022 11:50 PM
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,421
M
'Bolter
Originally Posted by 52Carl
Are you talking about the slightly convex metal slug which is driven into hole of the spindle where the end of the kinkpin is located?

No Sir. Your question made me do my DD. I discovered what I'm talking about is the kingpin thrust bearing as shown in fig. 2. Well crap.

In my weak defense my last experience with kingpins was about 50 years ago and then it was on VW sedans. They did have a dust seal at the bottom of the kingpin.

Attached Images
thrust bearing.jpg (162.64 KB, 162 downloads)
Last edited by moparguy; Sat Jan 01 2022 11:52 PM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



moparguy #1435633 Sun Jan 02 2022 12:44 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,646
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
There's no real grease seal there. The pic shows a pair of steel washers with a bronze washer between them. Current King Pin kits use a ball bearing there instead. What's called a dust seal there is just that, It only keeps the big chunks out. If you pump it full of grease, it will ooze out of every crevice. Just wipe it down and drive on.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
klhansen #1435788 Mon Jan 03 2022 12:02 AM
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,421
M
'Bolter
Got a minute in the shop today and made a few pictures. 1st shows the missing thrust bearing (that I now realize is missing the ball bearings) with the wheel off the floor. 2nd image shows the top of the kingpin with the truck's weight on the tire. The spindle has shifted and the new found clearance is now at the top of the kingpin. Third image shows the still good left kingpin with the complete trust bearing with all ball bearings in place along with the seal or dust cover intact.

If most of my driving was on paved roads like most folks, I'd do as klhansen suggested and just grease regularly and drive on. However I drive on a Lot of gravel roads, they're either dusty or muddy. Heck, it's a 1/4 mile of private gravel road from the house to the main paved road. That being the case I feel the need to replace kingpins, bushings and thrust bearings sooner rather than later.

Would it hurt to put it off a few hundred miles,,,,,,don't know.

RonR

Attached Images
Kingpin 1_8988.jpg (206.83 KB, 137 downloads)
Kingpin 2 .jpg (194.69 KB, 137 downloads)
Kingpin 3_8989.jpg (142.12 KB, 135 downloads)

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



moparguy #1435791 Mon Jan 03 2022 12:34 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,752
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
If pounding up and down on the axle hasn't damaged things beyond fixing now (the spindle for instance) a few more miles probably won't hurt, but think about what's happening every time you hit a bump! Don't wait much longer!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,421
M
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
If pounding up and down on the axle hasn't damaged things beyond fixing now (the spindle for instance) a few more miles probably won't hurt, but think about what's happening every time you hit a bump! Don't wait much longer!
Jerry

Jerry, my gut has been telling me exactly that. I've been asking around over the last few days for shop recommendations with small truck kingpin experience in central Arkansas. So far no leads. I'll likely strip the axle down and pull it. Then press out the old pin and bushings, press in the new bushings and carry the axle and spindles to a general machine shop and see if they'll ream the bushing to the pins keeping a common centerline on the bushings.

That's the current plan anyway.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



moparguy #1435802 Mon Jan 03 2022 01:57 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,752
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Try to find a shop with a Sunnen hone, and a mandrel long enough to hone both bushings at once. That's the best way to be sure they are in an exact straight line. Also check Ebay for a "piloted king pin reamer" that keeps the holes in alignment as the bushings are reamed. I see them there occasionally.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
moparguy #1435917 Mon Jan 03 2022 11:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 689
7
'Bolter
I ordered a king pin kit for my 5700, it's supposed to ship on the 5th, AC Delco from Summit. I couldn't get all of the dimensions from Summit but from the cross reference I think it's the right kit. No ball bearings for my application, just steel and bronze thrust washers as original, no dust boot, just overlapping steel washers. I am having a hard time getting one of the tie rod ends, Delco and Dorman have a listing but no stock. Moog has one that is close in dimensions so I might have to go that route. Hot Rod - do you think my local motor machine shop will be able to ream the new bushings to fit the new pins?


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
moparguy #1436233 Thu Jan 06 2022 01:59 AM
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,421
M
'Bolter
Required quite a bit of research but I have a kingpin kit on the way. Based on other's bad luck I only considered kits that showed component dimensions. One advantage of the exposed kingpin is I can get a caliper on it and it's .920 per my Old analog mike.

Went with a FCRC Machine kit, RPIS-30103. Shipping included it was $89.94 total.

Once it arrives the work begins.

RonR

Last edited by moparguy; Thu Jan 06 2022 02:01 AM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1951 Farmall Super A



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