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I fabricated a transmission opening cover in part from the original and in part new.

Fabricated a hydraulic line from the clutch master to the slave using the ends from a replacement C1500 line with added line material. The clutch slave or clutch appear to be locked up so I need to sort that out at some point.

I'm working on installing the water pump pulley and alternator but dealing with pulley alignment issues. Based a preliminary measurement it appears that the clutch fan arrangement from the original 1991 350 engine should have radiator clearance but installation will require the water pump pulley to be modified due to differenet bolt circles (water pump has both).

Waiting on my custom drag link and modified pitman arm and spindle bracket to assemble the steering and evaluate the strength of the relocation bracket for the steering gear. The custom drag link uses 1 ton GM rod ends with the pitman arm and spindle bracket modified for tapered rod end connections.

Plan to tackle brake lines and fuel lines in the near future.

I needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder as the piston was stuck in the bore, upon further inspection the bore was corroded pretty badly.

I installed the relocated steering gear/column, pitman arm, new drag link, etc. and modified the inner fender to clear the relocated steering gear. While I have the inner fender roughly in place I verified that my clutch hydraulic line cleared the modification I made to the inner fender for clearance.

Expecting some of the brake lines and materials for fuel lines via FedEx today. The line for the front brakes coming from the proprtioning valve is 5/16" (1/2" thread) to match the prop valve but the tees that I have are for 1/4" line (7/16" thread) so I need to adapt at some point. The lines to the frot disk brakes are 3/16" (3/8" thread fitting) so they also need adaption. Perhaps there is a better way to get everything to match up?

I have the brake lines all run but having problems with the banjo bolt copper washers on the front calipers. Apparently the washer ID is large enough that the washer can move out of position relative to the hose end fitting creating a leak path. I annealed the washers and tried to ensure they were centered as I tightened the banjo bolt but the driver's side still has a leak.

I changed the fluid in the 14-bolt rear axle and drained the fluid from the NV3500 transmission, just need to install the new fluid.

I have been sidelined by a case of influenza since Thanksgiving so things have been at a standstill. Hopefully in the near future my health will improve and I will be able to get back at it.

I would run down to your FLAPS and get the correct size copper washers. They'll have an assortment of them to chose from. Don't bet your life on a "that should work" solution on brakes.

Get well soon.

Are the banjo bolt washers part of the conversion "kit" that you received???

Could be they were not the proper size, or just poor quality offshore items.

Maybe worth taking a banjo bolt to the local FLAPS (with knowledge of what caliper you are using) and get them to help select a proper fitting washer???

Definitely one place you do not want a leak at - yikes!

Sorry to hear about having the BUG (ugh). Hope you can get recovered soon!

The banjo bolts and washers were part of the conversion kit and I agree they seem to be the incorrect size. The hose ends are relatively narrow between the inside and outside and the washer IDs are larger than the banjo bolt alllowing them to shift. I think if I can hold the washer concentric with the hose end while tightening the banjo bolt they will work but my next stop is the local FLAPS to get new washers.

Working on filling the radio relate holes in the dash (knob holes had been butchered) and I don't plan to install a radio.

Also started working on the driver's side door. The rusted out bottom of the door was expected but I discovered more issues with the door latch and window regulator that I had expected. Appears that the window crank handle shaft is damaged and the door outside handle shaft that engages the latch is also broken. The good news is the glass is good and the window regulator winds the window up/down using a vice grips as a handle.

I am making significant progress on the passenger side door (driver's side put off for now).

I also did make some progress on the passenger bed side with some rust patch panels in place and rear stake pocket removed (pending replacement).

I seem to be going in multiple directions at the same time and while making progress it is more like a shot gun blast than a rifle shot. I ordered a drive shaft and all of the parts related to the bed (probably premature). I'm also exploring how to deal with instruments (GPS speedometer, voltmeter, etc.) while not really being anywhere near ready for them.

Man those bed sides look familiar. I had rust-outs in the same places.

A tip on your next patch: Use radiused instead of sharp corners. It will be easier to planish out the shrinkage at the corners which should be less because of the radius.

Have you reviewed MPandC's sticky thread on welding sheet metal up at the top of the Paint and Body Shop Forum? A good read and good advice.

Kevin, I reviewed MPandC's sticky but that was a while ago and probably should look at it again.

I looked over your bed side pictures and there are definitely some similarities. In my case the angles were basically rusted away and tended to take the bed side with them (at least in the front and back). My fender mounting areas were not as bad as yours.

The driver's side door is going to be basically a full width inner and outer patch panel so making sure that I know where the bottom needs to be before I cut off both areas will be critical. My current plan is to make a carbboard template that I can bolt in place on the inner panel (because its flatter) to idenitfy the bottom edge location but I am open to suggestions.