I understand that the preferenc eis to post pictures etc. regarding project progress here rather than the Body and Paint Shop Area so in the future I will be posting more here and less in the various project sections.
I am working on the driver's side floor and cowl panels now and have them screwed in place. Other than the fit issues between the floor and the inner cowl and the 1/2" gap between the driver's and passenger side floor panels it is going fairly well. I fit checked the door and after a self induced problem was resolved the fit looks pretty good so I plan to continue my efforts to get the floor and cowl panels weled in place (probably several steps and another door fit check along the way).
Driver's side floor and cowl panels screwed in place, door fit confirmed. Next step is to fill all the "extra" holes for features not being used (parking brake, clutch & brake pedal, etc.), add filler piece for center gap and upper left corner of floor/firewall.
Once I have the floor and cowl panels in place I plan to move on to fabrication of the seat riser/mounting bracket. th eoriginal seat riser had been removed (mostly) by someone prior and the remaining portion (rear) is modified. My plan is to tie the rear of the new seat mounting braket to the remaining portion and also the floor and door latch pillars.
I have the initial welding completed for the driver's side floor and cowl panels. I closed up most of the holes in the floor that I do not anticipate being used prior to installation.
I started on my seat mounting bracket and checked the seat position relative to the steering column firewall hole/dash mounting and foot position related to the floor and all seems good. The seats are from a 99 Silverado with integrated seat belts and the seat bracket will provide 1 1/2 inch rise to get the seat cushion approximately at the factory seat height. The seat mounting bracket will be attached to the floor and the rear original seat riser (only remaining part) with the seat mounting bolts going through the bracket and floor to further secure everything. The front mounting bolts will require the bracket to be shimmed from the floot due to the recess formed in the floor pan but the intent is for the final bolt column to be solid to avoid any deflection of the floor pan related to the mounting bolts.
I have the seat frame built and placed, bolted using seat mounting bolts (6 of 8). I plan to paint the bottom side of the frame and the floor area that will be covered prior to welding in the frame. The plan is to weld the frame to the remaining original seat riser at the rear, the door latch posts, as well as the floor at the front edge of both cross angles. The inner front seat mounting bolt area is high enough above the floor that nuts were welding into the frame rather than going through the floor. The rear seat mounting bolts required a single washer on the bottom of the frame to make up for the thickness of the cross angle, but the outer front mounting bolt locations required a stack of 6 washers to be welded in place as a spacer to make up the gap to the floor. All bolts that go through the floor are being secured with large, thick fender washers to spread the load on the floor. I had considered welding the washers to the floor but have decided against that due to concern that the welds would cause more harm than good.
Once the seat frame is welded in place I plan to remove the cab from the frame to allow the bottom side floor and cowl panel welding etc. to the cab as well as work on the frame.
I got the seat frame welded in place and proceeded to pull the cab off the frame. I used a cherry picker (engine hoist) to lift the cab from the two new front outside mouting bolt locations which seemed to be fine until I got the cab clear of the frame and the lack of a third lift point allowed the cab to rotate. I ws able to get the cab onto a dolly I made with a pallet but then proceeded to tip the cab on its back to allow finishing the welding of the floor and cowl panels. Once the front area work is complete I plan to flip it onto the firewall to allow work on the rear cab corner area that also needs attention.
I plan to pressure wash the frame and remove anything (pedals, brake lines, etc.) prior to sand balsting and painting the frame. I do need to resolve a front brake issue as it generally rolls free but occasionaly the brake engages and prevents the wheel from rotating.
Biggest challenge now with the cab off the frame and engine build parts expected in the near future will be scheduling time to work on all three fronts (frame, cab, and engine) in the most efficient way. Ideally I will be able to do an initial engine/transmission fit check to determine what I need to do about the original rear engine mount before I get too far into the frame painting portion of the project. To faciliate the confirmation of engine/transmission vs. cab I may need to be able to temporarily put the cab back on the frame so I need to develop a better lifting plan that keeps the cab level next time.
A 4x4 attached to the end of the engine lift boom thru both door opening with doors off, works great for lifting the cab. You’ll have to lift and reset the 4x4 a couple of times to find the balance point. Once balanced, secure it with ratchet straps.
Phank1, thanks for the additional option for lifting the cab.
I worked on the cab a little but spent the majority of my time yesterday on the chassis. Pressure washed to remove most of the years of accumulated debris, removed the brake lines, pedal assembly and related bracket, parking brake cross shaft and related parts, front and rear bumpers, shocks, and right front brake shoes (spring was broken resulting in periodic brake lock up).
I also recieved my order (Sunday delivery, Yeah) from Jim Carter so I can work on engine mtg and related transmission mtg bracket location/install.
