The Stovebolt Forums Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs 1958 panel

Question about the sending unit. The only replacement I could find was for a larger tank.
The only difference was the shape of the rod holding the float. I was able to straighten
the rod and wanted to know if the tube could be cut and used as a pick up tube almost flush with
the bottom of the tank as opposed to having a bend and filter. I could use an inline filter.

I assume you have noticed that the pick up tube hit side of tank, and had installation problems. So that's why you want to bend it straight. Can you shorten it, bend it toward middle of tank and add the sock ?
Be careful that the float hits side of tank. The reason is that the flange only fits on the tank one way due to stagger of bolt pattern. This causes interference with pick up tube and float when using a truck sender. I remember trying this and bending the tube the opposite way and trying to make a loop in the float wire. Got all goofed up.

Maybe adding some sender flange holes would be the better way, so as to be able to rotate the sender and the tube and float away from the tank wall.

Best to follow the original design and have a new filter sock.

Jim Carter shows a sender for panels, but every time someone checks, they don't have it. https://oldchevytrucks.com/1955-1959/mechanical/fuel-system/gas-tanks-gas-tank-items.html?p=2 It is listed as out of stock.

I also experimented with removing the rheostat box from a new sender and installing on the old. The box is held to it's welded-on plate with bent tabs which I think I was able to get loose. I think all of the guts of the rheostat are attached to the can. The "cable" comes off the flange and transfers with the box to the old sender. Can't remember what my final result was. The wiper and coil is delicate and easy to screw up. I was going to perfect the box transfer and make a million dollars.

The mark on the new unit is where it would be cut.
And act as a straight pickup tube. This should work..right? IDK. seems so. The pickup
tube should not hit the side anymore.
The other alternative would be to bend there and cut tube to length for sock.
I saw that about the float.
The original design is flawed I guess.
I also thought of swapping stat units . That looked difficult.
The old one may work , IDK. How is best way to check and see if its operating correctly?

The truck sender is not flawed. Tube and float clear just fine. I was making the point that due to the "keyed" nature of the flange screw holes, on a truck all fits fine. On a panel/suburban it orients the float and tube against the tank wall. In other words, the flange screw holes are not evenly spaced.

If you go with straight tube, maybe cut a 45 deg - 60 deg slice cut on the end. I think debris accumulates near suction end. Debris tends to sink. Something has to be done to NOT suck in debris, especially when tank level is low. Probably that's why tube is bent for sock attachment. Not sure. The 60-66 and 67-72 tube has the same design. If the tank is super clean, should be no debris for a long time.

Ok, thanks so much!! maybe with a straight tube I can orient
the flange spacing so the float does not rub against tank wall.

I was able to rotate the sending unit not to interfere with the tank wall.
Used1966 Impala fuel tank strap kit. A little long , but able to bend to the right length .
I left enough room for padding.