The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search
Keep your restoration going

Keeping your resto going

A good bit of advice nestled in the FAQ page.
Don't

Irwin Arnstein working on his
1959 Chevy 1-Ton


Read the article.

Searching the Site

Get info about how to search the entire Stovebolt site here. To do a search for just the forums, get those details in the IT Shortbus fourm.
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
2 members (klhansen, 1 invisible), 73 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums59
Topics128,524
Posts1,041,226
Members46,037
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,871
R
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Camdg2010
OK I will try to get some pictures tomorrow after work. They are 20x8.50 wheels in the rear


On the left side of this page it tells how to post pictures here.


Rich

'47 Loadmaster [stovebolt.com]

1947 Chev. Loadmaster

1959 Chev. Viking 40

Genie: "I am the genie from a magic lamp and I have the power to grant you three wishes."
Me: "I want to be rich."
Genie: "OK, Rich, what's your second wish?"








Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 51
C
'Bolter
So I'm having a hard time finding anyone who will mess with these rims. I was to keep his as original as I can. I noticed my master cylinder is leaking and it hasn't been upgraded to double master. I'm torn on what to do. Originally I was buying this truck so I could pull the cab and front clip and put them on my 2003 chevy 4500. But I saw how nice the frame was and my 4500 is automatic. I really like the 4 speed with 2 speed rear end. Not sure I can find 5 lug fronts. My plan is to put my 5th wheel and Pintle hitch on the 53 and use it but it has to have reliable brakes and tires. What should I do

Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 51
C
'Bolter
So I found a chevy 3500 and it's got 10 lug, correct lug spacing and same hub measure however they are 19.5"s.... does anyone know If these will clear the 20 inch drums? They look like they will clear the fronts being the front drums are smaller. Any advice?

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,371
B
Curmudgeon

Last edited by buoymaker; Tue Dec 07 2021 05:24 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,644
S
'Bolter
You'll have to go to a big truck shop, or a Rural shop that works on Farm Trucks, and Tractors, to find someone that will work with you, and those wheels. There's still a lot of these early model trucks, with these type wheels on farms. I've been running these trucks almost 40 years, and have never had trouble finding someone to change tires for me. Have these places you've checked with actually seen your wheels, or just listened to you describe them ? I'd still like to see close ups of them.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures on Photobucket

1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 51
C
'Bolter
I went to a local tire shop today after work and they guy said they are pretty beat and rusty. He said if it's rusty inside to where it would be deemed unsafe then they by law have to keep the wheels and scrap them for liability. I however found out something cool. 1991 to 2002 chevy c3500 rear hubs with the 10 lug will swap out with the timken 429 10 lug. Wheel bearing and hub are the same. Just the c3500 uses disk brake and 19.5 wheels and the 10 lug wheels fit on the front 5 lug aswell

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,644
S
'Bolter
I'm not sure, but I don't think those wheels will work ? I remember someone else on here had problems using those same wheels. I think there was a clearance issue ? I've never wanted to go to a smaller wheel, so I've never looked that deep into it. Smaller wheels, and tires will have your original engine peeking at a higher rpm, and a lower speed. I've always tried to used the largest(tall) tire that I could for this reason. I ran 8.25/20 fronts, and 9.00/20s rears on most all of the 47-54 Chevrolet's I've owned.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures on Photobucket

1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 375
C
'Bolter
So true, I have 7.50-20s all the way around my 46 2 ton with a 62 235 motor and can only cruise about 40 MPH.

Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 51
C
'Bolter
I'm not finding any 20 inch wheel or 225 that is 10 bolt 7.25 lug. What doesn't clear? The rims on the oem hubs?? I know it slows it down, I'm trying to find an alternative to keeping the split rims that no one around here will work on. I would like to use this truck for working therefore I need it to be safe (as far as tires go) and not wonder where to find a tire shop to do the tires if one blows or has issues.

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 164
A
'Bolter
There is the option of doing it yourself...
...thats what I did. Disassembled it all, sand blasted the wheels and repainted them. Put it all back together in the backyard. Following the factory service manual or owners manual has it all spelled out. There is one important safety step I used - wrapping a heavy chain around the tire and rim halves so that if they separated while inflating nobody would die. After doing it, I am much more comfortable with them.

Page 2 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6

Moderated by  69Cuda, Grigg 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5