We are still asking: What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
Hello everyone. I'm new to Stovebolt, hoping someone can assist. I've got a 1946 2 ton with a leaking rear wheel cylinder. I've searched high and low, including this forum and haven't found the part number. I was able to order the rebuild kit from Chevsofthe40s and I'm hopeful that does the trick, but I'd like to locate a cylinder in case it does not. I've attached a few photos here. The only marking I've located is 'Made in the USA 4812'
I am not sure the part number will do you any good since new ones are essentially not available. A rebuild kit will work as long as the cylinder is not pitted where the cups run. Pits in the very center are OK as the cups don't contact the center. If the cylinder is badly pitted the new kit will quickly fail. All is not lost, however, as you should then consider having the cylinder relined. You can line it with brass or stainless steel. This is pricey but you end up with a cylinder that is better than new since it will last a very long time. Try contacting a truck brake service and see if they can help you. White Post Restorations does this type of work and has a good reputation, although I have never used them. Good luck. Kent
Beware of the Chinese wheel cyls. I purchased 2 of them from a guy that modified the caps so they would work and was still not happy with them. I had to recut the copper washer sealing area so it would seal and get thicker washers because the hole wasn't drilled and tapped near as deep as the original. I finally have one working after two or three trys. Also the Chinese 1-1/2 diameter cups I purchased wouldn't work. I couldn't push them though the wheel cyl.with a socket and extension and if I could get them through they would come out like a bullet! I finally found some NOS ones on E bay and got it back together!
Thanks everyone! The interior of the cylinder is in good shape, it was mainly the cups that were pitted. I installed the rebuild kit from Chevsofthe40s last night and it appears to be functioning properly. I’m going to try the Napa Cylinders and swap out the brake fluid for silicone since the truck isn’t run frequently. I appreciate the quick help!
If you run silicone fluid be aware that you'll need to replace every rubber part in the system- - - -rebuild all the wheel cylinders, and replace all the flex lines. Then you're likely to end up with a somewhat spongy brake pedal. DOT 4 fluid will do all the braking you'll need, and it's got a much higher temperature rating than a set of drum brakes will ever see. Jerry
"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose" Kris Kristofferson
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Jmcc1976 If you have a hydrovac the service book says to use bendix vacuum cylinder oil 2x a year. Welp I couldn't find that oil!!! Jim Carter himself told me to go downtown get hydraulic jack oil, same thing,best thing iv'e done for my booster. That big leather cup gets hungry for lubrication,well it's hummin now. One snag one of my 2 boosters doesn't have that 1/8 in. plug so took off stubby connecting hose at top got it to it that way.
Interesting tid-bit. My truck has a Midland booster on it (with a tag 374000), can't say if it was factory or not. I decided to put the Bendix style on it and found a factory correct one (with the correct number 374000). I seem to recall someone else here having a Midland in place of the correct Bendix style. However, after disassembling and semi-rebuilding the Bendix, I promptly went back to the Midland unit. Maybe I didn't get enough new parts to get the Bendix operating correctly but in comparison to the cleaned, disassembled, inspected and reassembled Midland the Bendix didn't seem to work nearly as well.