Got the truck for the right price. Has some rust issues, but they all do. Here is my progress thus far.
Engine runs well. Going to keep it, but probably FI it. Know nothing about the transmission. Hoping it is good. Rear end was run dry and the vent was completely gone from the top of the housing. Lots of dirt and grit in it. Had to replace everything in it. Got it done with a little help from a HS friend who knew much more than I did about rear ends.
I am currently working on dent banging with rear fenders and rust repair. learning the art of patch panels one by one.
Instructions for posting photos is in the left margin of every page. Unless you are using a phone as your computer.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Welcome to the Stovebolt and the Project Journal forum! Your '66 C-10 Step SIde will be of great interest to our forum participants. I'm really looking forward to watching you refresh the '66. Be sure to ask your questions in the appropriate forum(s). There's a wealth of knowledge here on the SB. I see you've checked into the Welcome Center and introduced yourself, an excellent first step.
I'll send you a PM with some additional Project Journal information after you make a couple more posts. You can just click on the flashing red envelope in the upper righthand corner to open it.
Pics of where it had gone to die in MT. Truck originally was bought in Gillette WY, and brought to Powderville MT. Owned by same guy K lazy E Ranch (Established 1890 ish) until his death in 94. Truck sat till 2000 until it went to his grandson. Grandson got it going and beat on it a little for a couple years until it quit on him. Sat again until 2021. Grandson went into reahab, getting divorce, and his mother (One of my best friends) didn't know what to do with it. We discussed price and shipping costs and it started its journey to NH.
Decided to see if it would run. Scoped it cause the air cleaner was off. Changed plugs, put gas in the carb vent and it started and ran, but it would not pull fuel from a can.
had fuel pressure at the carb so I went through through the carb. Now it pulls fuel from a can, but it wont idle. I should probably just FI it.
I tried to attach video, but they are too big of a file.
Rear end, ended up being hosed. The vent was gone and it allowed who knows what into it. I found large hunks of metal, sandy sludge, and shims that had moved and were grinding themselves apart. Wheel seal or wheel cylinder was leaking, not sure which.
New set of gears, bearings throughout, wheel cylinders, and fresh brakes are on the list.
I am on the fence to keep this dealer optioned bumper or not? I like it, but I was only able to straighten it so much even though I am happy with how it came out. Going to have to strip and rhino line or go with a regular chrome bumper.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller
I am on the fence to keep this dealer optioned bumper or not? I like it, but I was only able to straighten it so much even though I am happy with how it came out. Going to have to strip and rhino line or go with a regular chrome bumper.
If you want to take that last bit of bend out near the weld, get out your O/A torch and heat the area I marked in yellow on both flanges of the channel till red, then let cool. If you support the bumper on the ends with the flanges up when you heat it that will help it straighten it as well. The heated area will shrink and pull it straight. You can do that multiple times till you get it where you want it. I've seen that method work on huge I-beams that were bent, so they were usable again. The labor and gas cost was worth a lot less than buying a new I-beam.
The part that's bent with the flange inside the bend can be straightened on your press with no heat used, stretching the flanges.
Last edited by klhansen; Mon Dec 06 2021 09:11 PM.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you want to take that last bit of bend out near the weld
I cut the welds for the gussets and got it the same as the side that had no damage. I have not welded back as I want to test fit once I get the bed back together.
Appreciate the tip. Going to see how it looks with both sides the same first. If still not happy I will try your idea.
I am trying Eastwood's product on this thing. Rust encapsulator. I didn't have much and I am doing this in 1/3's so blasting was not a option.
I am using a pressure washer, then treating with a converter, encapsulating individual pieces, encapsulating again once assembled, and then going over it with a rubberized or bed liner coating.
Put new brakes on when it went together. Pic shows old brakes. I think they might have been original as rear brakes lasted for ever back then and the truck only has 60K.
Spent time time trying to save the rear fenders. Massive case of the mumps on them from driving down gravel roads. I am hoping using bed liner on the underside will help stop this from happening again in the future.
fender in the pics has a dent and a twist. Where the curved portion of the wheel well meets the flat it actually dips in before it meets it. I think this will be very difficult to get out. I am thinking I will simply replace and then keep working at these. If I get them in good shape I will sell them to recoup the cost of replacement metal. Flame suit on for not wanting to use original metal.
Started learning about filler this weekend. I am working in large part where things will not be seen at first. I am not fast, but I am satisfied with progress so far. I will know more when I lay down some primer and block it after all of this.
The bed sides have bends and bows to them that I hope will straighten when fenders are bolted on? Time will tell. Its scary when you have no idea what you are doing.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Tue Dec 14 2021 01:03 PM.
Finally got some more time with the bodywork. After multiple rounds I have a bedside and tailgate done. i blocked it best I could, but some areas of the bedside wont straighten out until the fender is bolted tight. I clamped straight edges where I could and I think I was able to get them blocked pretty straight.
The hard part is knowing that they were not straight out of the factory especially things like the bed rails. I have one that I know has never had work done to it and there are dips into the stake pockets etc. Last step was two heavy coats of primer (This was my first time shooting from a gun). They await completion of the other pieces, to assemble, block again to make sure its straight, disassemble and then shoot color matched bedliner at it.
Final filler and blocking before heavy load of primer.
I guess I should note...... Other than some hammer and die work, I am not worrying about things below the strip line. Out of easy sight, out of mind. Otherwise I would be driving myself crazy.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Tue Jan 04 2022 08:04 PM.
You have got some interesting hangers for your paint work, I never thought about using bungee's. Great work.
Craig "Living life in the SLOW lane" Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting) '58 Viking 4400, 235, 4 Speed (Thor)
I had wanted to have the bed completed by now, but it needed more work than expected. I suspect all pieces will be ready for a trial assembly by the end of January. At least hoping.
Once bed is done I really want to have the front clip and engine out/painted done before summer. That gives me a year to go after the cab.
Front panel rear cross bar and supports primed today.
The second bed side was a little more involved. Thought it was done and then I see 10 things I missed, then I tried sanding the filler too soon, etc etc etc.
When I used a straight edge and clamped the warped side I was able to get it to pop in and out of place. When popped in place I think I have gotten that area flat. Only thing I could not make sure was a warp where the step bolts to the bedside. I will have to massage into place when I bolt the step into place.
Anyhow I am done for the evening. Have about an hour of prep time and all bed pieces are primed and ready for trial assembly. Can't wait for this bed to be done. Its going to be a huge motivator.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Mon Jan 10 2022 12:52 AM.
Weekend is for test fitting the bed pieces together. Got my fenders today and my seat back from apolstery. Wish I was ready for the seat but it's one more thing off the list.
Can anyone catch the points lost for the seat other than the color change?
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Fri Jan 21 2022 08:03 PM.
Seat looks great. Beware! Caution! Alert! Warning! I installed door arm rests on BOTH of my 1963 doors in the factory position. Then one day I decided to tilt the seat back forward and found out it will hit the arm rest. IIRC, it damaged the seat upholstery where it hit the arm rest. So if you install a PS arm rest, make sure BOTH doors are open before you tilt your seat back forward.
Well the garage is struggling to keep 60 with it -18 this morning.
Hardest part is figuring out how to hold stuff and get bolts in holes as a 1 man show today.
Things are loosely together with bolts in most holes. The inner holes on the steps to the fender are a mile off? When I get another set of hands I might try and force things into place. Other than that I am pleased in how things are looking.
Earlier this week I brought my pieces out into the sunlight. I see about a dozen issues per panel that need to be addressed before color goes down. Guess I am not done with bodywork yet. Uggggggg
After COVID cold getting wheels polished and kid crap I am beginning to get back at the bed.
Bed steps were in amazing shape. Has not taken much filler to get them looking good. Just a little rust rash where the fender meets the step and some small dings is all that needs to be taken of. They are looking sweet. Ready for last coat of primer and a final sanding now.
Have not had good enough weather for painting yet, so I have set all of that aside for the moment and moved on to other things.
First is the transmission. It is out. I threw every bolt and piece that would come off into a bucket of vinegar for a week. Chiseled, scraped, wire wheeled, and pressure washed until it was...... sill not clean. Tried everything in the book, and the best thing was oven cleaner. It softened the super hard layers so the PW could blow it away. Needed to do this a few times. All sealed, up, primed and painted. Two coats of primer,, two coats of paint. If the rest of the truck comes out this good I will be very happy.
Have it out, but not cleaned yet. I have new seals, bearings, brakes, drums, brake lines on the way. I could not get any movement out of the B Joints so as of right now I am going to consider them good unless the crud is holding them tight. Both springs are broken in the same way. This is what gave it the nice rake. With new springs it will ride level I bet.
More scraping, chiseling, wire wheeling, and pressure washing is in store for me. I should buy stock in oven cleaner at this point.
Engine came out pretty hard seeing that the whole clip is off if it. it is mostly clean. I have the tin off the top and bottom. Trying to decide what the most cost effective thing to do is. It only has 60k on the clock. Should be good for another 60K before rebuild I am hoping.
Keep at it. Little by little. I bet your engine will run fine. Did you drain the oil pan and find any water in the oil?
Only a few drops in what was left in the oil. Rotating it allowed the filter to drain into the pan. I will take some pics of the internals. Wondering if the new detergent oils will clean things up a bit when it gets running. The new oil I put in it was run for less than ten min collectively, and it came out black and smelling of gas.
I've had pretty good luck with running a full crankcase of cheap 30 weight oil and a 2 or 3 quart overfill with kerosene or Diesel fuel. That lets the crank and rods whip down into the sump at a fast idle and splash the oil/solvent mix around like the agitator in a washing machine. As long as you don't drive the vehicle or load the engine in some other way, there won't be any bearing damage. That procedure will clean the bottom end better than any kind of scrubbing you can do with the oil pan off. Drain the oil while it's hot, and most of the crud will come with it. Then you can repair any gasket or seal leaks the solvent wash might have created. I've had very good success cleaning gunked-up engines that way, even freeing up stuck piston rings at times. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
[quote=Hotrod Lincoln Drain the oil while it's hot, and most of the crud will come with it. Then you can repair any gasket or seal leaks the solvent wash might have created.
I thought about that prior to my work on this thing, but when I could not get it to idle after I rebuilt carb (found split rubber hose when I pulled engine out) I abandoned that idea. There is not much sludge in the pan or valve covers. There is a thin layer on everything, but not what you would expect in a 55 year old engine that has sat for 30 of its years.
Well The front end of frame and suspension is almost ready for paint.
Supported the front with a jack and towed it out with my lawn mower so I could run the power washer outside vs making a mess.
So many rounds of cleaning, scraping, wire wheeling, washing. All that is left is some drying time, a little rust converter for the frame, and to prep the lower A arms which are soaking in vinegar.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Mon May 23 2022 03:17 PM.
Upper arms are done and prepped to be painted. Lowers will come out of the soup tonight for a final wash and get prepped for paint as well. Hoping the front end begins going back together this weekend if I can hide from my wife and kids long enough.
I tried to hurry the process along a little with the lower arms. I was pulling them out nightly and PW'ing, but it still took a week. There was still a little scale in the spring pocket. I was able to chisel and grind it off. Not sure if it is arm rust or spring rust cause it was pretty hard stuff.
Was hoping to get front suspension completed and back together this weekend, but was threw another curve ball when I cleaned up the spindles. They were trashed. Seals grooved in pretty bad, and the bearings wore a groove into the spindle. Grrrrr.
On the plus side, I was able to get a coat of paint on everything, assemble most of the suspension and get another coat of paint, so it is looking pretty good.
Ball joints were easy to get. Spindles are proving a different story. Hopefully NAPA has them, cause all the other national chains don't even have a listing.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Tue May 31 2022 11:56 AM.
Finally made some real progress with the rockers. Have the front cab support, A and B pillar in measured place. Inner rocker and floor section then fell into place. Kick panel is cut in and ready to find its home, but I need to do something with the lower section of the firewall before I weld it home.
My cab support did end up being too long. I needed to cut the ears off that touch the inner floor support and re-drill the mounting hole. I will reattach the ears once the cab is off and I can tip it up on one side or the other.
With only a few tacks the pass side, it is far more rugged vs the rusty drivers side.
Measurements are spot on except for the door opening. Pass side has ended up being a strong 1/16 larger than the drivers side. I haven't hung the door to check gaps yet, but I think I can live with splitting a 1/16 front to back.
After a stupid amount of hours I have the right rear cab support in place, welded home, with all the overlaps from the cab back in place and welded back in.
Wish the rears were easy like the fronts (which are not that easy)
Got the door hung so I could see the gaps. Gaps are good, but with my lift I cant get the door open far enough to put the outer rocker in place. Still waiting on correct parts to finish the front brake conversion, then it will roll again.
Its a little tight on the front of the door where it will meet the cowel, but looking at pictures pre tear down it is basically the same.
Got home from vaca on Thursday and was working at the truck on Friday. I have the and B pillars welded home, ground and sanded smooth with a coat of paint on them. The rear cab support cut in and welded home with the floor patch rose welded into the support. The outer rocker is in place with screws, drilled and ready to weld. I have a patch piece I needed to make for the rear of the floor that the rear skin welds to cut in and tacked, but I am hesitant to weld that one home yet.
All the measurements are dead on compared to the other side for door opening and rocker placement. The cab corner is ready to tackle next.
made some progress in the last couple weeks. After getting the pass side structural welding done and the cab corner in place I moved onto the drivers side.
Had a pleasant surprise with the B pillar and rear floor being in good shape. B Pillar cleaned up nice with a wire wheel. Very solid which is strange cause the pass side one was 80Percent gone. Cab corner looks decent except for a dent and one small rust hole. Jury is out on the cab support. I will do some serious poking tonight after work.
Amazingly things started falling into place. Not sure if it's due to experience from other side or this side is easier?
The B pillar cleaned up nice with rust treatment. I had to drill an extra hole in the cab support to get the dirt out. It was completely full. Harldy any rust came out so I am going to keep it. Nice to not replace these two items.
Had some more time last weekend to get things into place. Of course once you mark, measure six times, cut and start final fitting nothing goes together right.
The pass side cab mount cause all sorts of problems when trying to fit together. I am going to bet it is the same on the drivers side. I think I need to elongate the hole to bring things in a touch.
Structural welding on cab is done!!!!! Cab can now come off the frame!!!! Rest of welding is cosmetic and can be done easier standing it up or rotating onto its side.
1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10. 1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny. 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife’s
Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 1951-GMC 9430 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Amazing weekend for me. Was able to close in the passenger side floor. Mind you that it took no less than 20 in and outs with it, but just like the drivers side, I was able to recreate the factory lips and joint mid way up the firewall. Might not seem like much to some, but I am darn pleased with myself! Cut my pieces out of my lost cause door and didn't use 90% of the floor patch purchased.
Was able to close up and dressed (Just brought it in close) both floor sides this weekend. Cab is getting close to calling the blaster!!!!! The sheer number of spot welds holding all these parts together is staggering.
Just looked at pics. I never grabbed any after I ground everything down.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Mon Sep 26 2022 01:34 PM.
My mild upgrades started in 1983 when I bought it and stalled, the kid was in college then my divorce allowed me to step up the process in 2012 it went into a professional shop it came out the way you see it. Now thinking of some changes or upgrades to improve the ride. But I don't want to put too much in it dollar-wise because I will never even get near what I have in it even now.
That’s how I should have done mine. I didn’t know enough then.[/quote]
How so? I had planned on keeping each section going to completion. but that was blown out of the water. I think I am satisfied with the cab and hood. The real bodywork begins now. I think I am going to pause it and go back to the bed, get that done and out of the way of everything else.
Well. Played around with the bed this weekend. Needed.a break.from the cab. Got boards cut, into place, end one cut to accept the side rail, ss angle strip drilled, and bed side drilled. Only have pics of the boards in place. Going with generic composit boards there is no cutting at all. Nine of them drop right into place perfectly.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Sun Oct 23 2022 11:07 PM.
Did you blast the frame? What paint used on it? Did you hire someone to media blast the cab or ? And what media, any problems with not being able to get all the media out of the inner panels?
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
I did not blast the frame. I pw, wire wheeled, pw, used acid and oven cleaner to clean. I used Eastwood rust encapsulator on frame and suspension. One coat by bursh second coat by spray. I will probably top coat with a undercoat material once all together cause it scratches easily.
I had the cab blasted. Crushed glass. I imagine there is still media in areas. Did my best to blow vacume it out.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
When I had my cab blasted it was on a rotisserie, so I could rotate, vacuum, rotate, vacuum, etc. to get the leftover media out. There was still just a bit in a few places, but that just made the primer coat "slip-resistant."
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Bed bodywork is done!!! Last coat of primer went on Sunday after a stupid amount of time trying to straighten everything out. None of the pieces are perfect, but they are soooo much better than they were. Just a light sanding to prep it for color and I am in happytown!!!
I sprayed my first few pieces of the bed with the liner product. I need to call their tech cause it ran right off the verticals and dripped. I am supper bummed at the moment, but at least I was smart enough to do a few pieces that were small or out of sight. The big flat panel is the front of the bed that faces the cab, so that can look like crapola if need be.
Got some time finally over the weekend. Seems as though its 2 steps forward and 1 step back. Or three steps back. Seeing I can't spray color for a few months I coated in epoxy and started assembling the bed. Went smooth until I realized I had to take things back apart again due to the SS strips and welting. Anyhow here is some of the stuff this weekend. Hopefully its the last time this bed comes apart, but somehow I doubt it.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Mon Jan 09 2023 12:41 PM.
Got to play with a stud puller this weekend as well. Friend has one and let me try it. Dents in cab where PO stored a large Jon boat are almost gone. Couple dents in hood are out, but this last big one he wants to bring a tool that grabs more than one of the studs at a time to try and bring it up better so that one is on hold.
Your progressing nicely. I know about spraying in the cold. Five years back, I sprayed my sons vehicle with a 2k base and clearcoat in early September. It was barely over 60 degrees and maintained with a heater for two days. It dried enough for me to sand and rub it out, but was still soft that a finger nail would dent it if pressed into it. It stayed that way until the spring when it was warm enough to fully cure it. The paint did survive as it’s still good (and hard) till this day.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
Well engine got here last week, so I figured it would be easier to get it out of the way vs the bed or cab. Got the engine and transmission into place and in its home I believe. Then went back to the bed. Welting is on both sides. Cross beams are in.
Word of warning to people doing similiar things. 1. If you are bolting the side strips to the bedsides and decide to hide one on the front a rear stake pocket, get them on before you put the rear sill in or you will be taking it all back apart like I did to get to one bolt. And if you are replacing the cross beams get the front one in before you hang the fender/step because you will have to take it all apart again if you don't.
Got the bed sat down on the frame this weekend. More to store it vs anything else as I need to get back to the cab. I think the tire might be a little small for the hole I have? Should have trusted my instincts when I bought wheels from Lugnutz. He had a wide set that we thought would not fit.
Curious why you chose to bolt on the side/angle strips. I am going to be making the bolt vs. weld decision in the coming weeks/months and always looking for input.
Great progress even when dealing with the colder temperatures those of us in the northern states need to deal with.
Finally warmed up a little today. Had to cut a new clutch inspection cover to make it fit, got the starter in. Angle for the transmission set and got to the end of the nasty dent on the hood. It was a good afternoon today.
Havent posted in a while. Had some small stuff get done and I figured I would wait till it added up.
1. Rear of cab seems to be straight and flat now. 2. Cab Sound deadener is in. Hope it makes a difference. 3. Firewall and inner fender is painted GM507.
Thanks for all the posts Ferris. I know it takes a lot of time & effort. I stumbled on to your rebuild some how, but had to join Stovebolt to see all the photos. Glad I joined, of course. My 66 short stepside won't be as nice as yours, but hopefully I'll be driving it by years end. I'm sure there's lots more Lurkers like me that are following your excellent thread. Again, thanks.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
Appreciate the positive plug. I hope it comes out as nice as I am expecting it to. Not too sure at the moment. Seems as though I have loose threads everywhere.
Steering components are in and tires are moving together again finally. Cab extensions were is horrible shape. Got them almost good, so into the soup for rust removal. Started assembling the rad support and grill support. Got the rad support cover repaired with a washer. Looks almost factory.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Mon Mar 27 2023 12:33 PM.
Do you have a radiator picked out? Do you plan to install the rubber filler pieces along the edges of those radiator side panels?
I don't. Original looks to be in decent shape so I may use it. Not sure yet. I have some conveyor belt material I am going to use for the original seals.
Realized I had bought the precut sound deadening yesterday. I figured two layers would be better than one. The precut set is way more durable and dense vs the big roll I bought. Had to throw the carpet down to see what it will look like. It's way more blue than what the pic shows.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Wed Apr 05 2023 06:11 PM.
Do you have a radiator picked out? Do you plan to install the rubber filler pieces along the edges of those radiator side panels?
My '66 didn't have a radiator when I got it, but the brackets for the upper & side seals were still there. Since I put a 454 in my truck, I had planned on buying a premium US made radiator that came recommended on another Chevy truck site. But I stumbled on a Amazon 4 tube unit for the '66 for $200 delivered. I figured I'd use the cheap rad to get the truck running & finishing the build. Then purchase the USA unit when the truck is ready for the road. But the El Cheapo looks & fits so well, including the top & side baffles & seals, that I'm going to use it till it fails, for whatever reason. I did have to flip one of the baffles over in order to pick up a little more room for the side seals to fit, I also glued the side seals rather than use staples. Pics are on my phone, so I'll have do a follow up post with them.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Give Evaporust a try on those smaller parts. It works better (faster) than vinegar, and will loosen the paint as well. The downside is it has gotten expensive, nearly doubled in price to about $32 gal on Amazon.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Got some color on the engine tonight. Had my local paint house take the original valve cover and match it. I opted for a matte finish just in case I liked it. I am thinking I will like to clear it.
Got some color inside the cab today. Got some runs but such is life I guess. Got the seatbelts headed in. Unfortunately the carpet is not correct and does not fit.
I tried to send pic but you can't do that in messages. This is the interior color. Single stage. I may clear it, not sure. I will see how tough it is when I deal with some runs I got.
Thanks for the paint information. I ordered "Eastwood 2K DuraSpray Topcoat Gentian Alpine Blue Paint" which is a rattle can 2 part paint that is suppose tohave unlimited pot life (not sure how that's possible). My son recommended that I clear it to provide protection from scratches etc.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I'm with you on the unlimited pot life thing, so I had to go read up on it. Apparently the activator is "activated " by moisture after its mixed with the paint AND after it leaves the can. Maybe they have to use the activator capsule in the can to prevent moisture inside when filling the can. What was the old slogan - "Better living thru chemistry".
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
With regard to area behind tank - have you considered the DIY, 2-part undercoating paint. I believe marketed for beds, but I used on floor and interior firewall area as a noise reducer. While not original, I was not offended by the look on my floor and wished I went up the back of the cab.
With regard to area behind tank - have you considered the DIY, 2-part undercoating paint. I believe marketed for beds, but I used on floor and interior firewall area as a noise reducer. While not original, I was not offended by the look on my floor and wished I went up the back of the cab.
Was going to do this, but I insulated instead. I wondered if things like this would stick to the insulation?
That shop is waaaaay too clean! Needs more clutter.
I second that...
Last edited by TUTS 59; Fri Apr 28 2023 04:35 PM.
Craig "Living life in the SLOW lane" Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting) '58 Viking 4400, 235, 4 Speed (Thor)
Changed gears so i can get motivated again. it may have to come back apart again, but it might not. Tank finally quit fighting me. Seat quit fighting me. Carpet quit fighting me. Got the OE shifter to the new 5 speed. Still needs some tweaking to make it comfortable, but the important part is that it is attached.
Have gotten a few things done over the last few weeks. I thought I would be laying color down by now, but wives and kids ruin everything.
1. Front clip bodywork is aligned, scuffed, hanging and ready for primer. 2. Hood is flat. Have a few pin holes to swipe and then last prime. 3. Doors are gapped. Shipping damage is almost repaired. I am going to work the bottom of the pass side door to close a gap this weekend I hope. Then they are off to primer. 4. Interior pieces are hanging and ready for prime and paint. 5. Kick vents finally came out of the soup and are ready for a quick scuff to remove the flash and get primed.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Thu Jun 15 2023 01:27 PM.
Been tryign to get tings done, but it is going so slow.
Driveshaft finally got here and is in. A combination of custom Brake lines and pre bent lines have completed the system. Final prime was done on a bunch of small parts. Started undercoating prior to paint.
Probably a few more things completed, but 6982 to go.
1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10. 1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny. 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife’s
Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 1951-GMC 9430 1951- Chevrolet 1300
1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10. 1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny. 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife’s
Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 1951-GMC 9430 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Took all weekend, but the radiator is in. Fan is mostly in. Not sure how close it needs to be to the radiator? Return fuel bung is in the tank and new tank is in place. Just need to finish up with squeak preventers and strap it back in.
On my aluminum radiator I fabricated a sheert metal shroud that mounts the fan about an inch away from the radiator and allows the fan to pullair from the full radiator face.
On my aluminum radiator I fabricated a sheert metal shroud that mounts the fan about an inch away from the radiator and allows the fan to pullair from the full radiator face.
My plan is to cut the top and bottom off of the brackets to clan things up, then paint everything black.
I started playing around yesterday to get things routed enough so I can get the o2 sensor in for the sniper. Going to have to heat shield the hyd clutch lines for sure on this side and the starter on the other.
Been working on wiring specifically sniper wiring. Grounding is done and looking factory. Sniper wiring is using existing mounts so it is looking factory or as much as possible. I am very very close to firing this thing off once I get the 02 sensor in.
Got some color on body parts. Mostly successful, but had some trouble.
That first time the engine runs is a great feeling. Looks like you have a really good helper there.
Unfortunately, she only shows up for the exciting stuff. Not sure where I got my interest in cars from? My parents were never interested, none of my in-laws are, and my kids don't seem to be.
Well. After three weeks I have all of the bad reaction areas sanded, filled, primed, sealed, and epoxy painted good enough to store them away and work on other things like the bed and cab. Had to have a new Alt sent to me, then the starter quit so a new one of those is in the works as well. Lots of small pieces sprayed. these are the eye candy.
