1962 C-10, has the valve attached to the end of the core, so with valve removed there is only one pipe coming out of the heater core. Core leaks so I’m looking for a replacement. Everything I find has two pipes coming out of the core and no valve. Any leads on where to purchase the correct one for my truck. Thanks
Last edited by Justhorsenround; Sat Nov 20 2021 06:35 PM.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
On another blog I found this were they had to use a heater core then get the tank changed at a rad shop and the heater valve is rebuildable here is a pic of the blog with part numbers from 2012.
I have read that blog. Thanks Apparently this particular core is made from unobtainium! There is a radiator shop about 30 miles north of me so I may try to have this one repaired. If not I’ll ask them about swapping the tank.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Martin, you are sure it is leaking at the core and not the switch? Recently I was lucky to find a new rebuilt switch that stopped my leak. I am sure the repair route can work. Trick is to find the person that still does it.
I'll poke around a little more, see if I get lucky.
-Woog
update/edit:
found a few listed, but not sure if they are the same as in your photos... judging from your photo angles and theirs, but check these out below. Good luck!
rockauto.com has several listed for a '62 chevy c10 truck, the ones toward the bottom may be like the one in your photos, but not sure. check it out. nevermind, out of stock, but check the photos anyway.
Woog, appreciate your time consuming research. All of the links show the standard 2 pipe replacement core. These are an option if I choose to eliminate the valve. The Ranco valve shown at the Filling Station is different than mine. I spoke with a friend who as a youngster helped his father scrap several thousand vehicles. He distinctly remembers the ‘62 being different than others in how the heater control valve bolted directly on to the heater core and sealed with a o-ring. I’m going to try a radiator shop this week and if that doesn’t work I’ll probably do like most others and change types of cores and put in a shutoff valve. Thanks for your help.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Yeah, I felt like something was off, but wasn't sure with the photos to compare.
Well, good luck with finding a good radiator shop. The last time I needed one, my old one had closed and my mechanic had to call around to find me one in business.
I did notice Jim Carter's has a few different shut off valves listed, if you go that route.
Well, back to square one. Two years ago, as I was leaving one of the local Flaps in the ‘62 C-10, antifreeze started running out under the dash onto the passenger floorboard. Typical heater core leak symptom, right? Being the procrastinator that I am I just bypassed the core and ignored the problem. I don’t drive it much in the winter anyway. Well last week I pulled the core and visually checked for leaks. Couldn’t find any obvious leakage. I figured a pressure test was needed so I began looking for a radiator shop close to me. The EPA has kindly taken care of that for me. Everyone has shut down with exception of one in OKC. He said they are backed up until after the first of the year. They do a lot of oil field related work. I did a lot of searching and so did Woogeroo, to find a new core. After several exhausting hours I did find a couple of places showing the correct tank at prices well over the $275 mark. Add in a replacement valve for another $350 and it went quickly out of my price range. This morning I thought with a little ingenuity I could rig up a way to pressure test the core myself. No problem getting things set up and upon pressuring up to about 20psi with water absolutely no leaks. Yup no leaks found. The only thing I had done was remove the control valve and put a small bead of Red RTV around where the valve seals to the tank and put the valve back on. The mechanical part of the valve operates as it should but I didn’t test the thermostat part of it. My question now is, where was it leaking and do I just put it back in the truck? Suggestions.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Did you pressure test the valve also? It looks like there's quite a bit of green stuff on it, maybe indicating leakage residue. It may only leak in certain positions thru a stem seal. Hope you can get it figured out.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.