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Thinking again ...
We are still asking:
What did you
get done on
your Bolt today
????


The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt
this weekend?"

After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.


Now with pictures
and No BOTS.


So ...


What did you get done on your Bolt today????


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Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430915 Sun Nov 21 2021 10:30 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,686
Grease Monkey, Moderator General Truck Talk & Greasy Spoon
Hopefully the egg on your face will be a beacon to others. Compare new to old before installing and bag and tag everything as it comes apart to make future comparisons easier. Thanks for the update.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily”
‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”



"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
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Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430918 Sun Nov 21 2021 10:42 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,513
L
Lugnutz Offline OP
'Bolter
I had no “old” to bag up or compare. I started with this, and nothing else. No intake, a mismatched head and no carb or accessories. Nothing else.
If that one bolt hadn’t stripped out of the head then none of this would have happened.

Attached Files
6F10169A-4F9D-4BD5-9984-DD3FB7D28E34.jpeg (342.56 KB, 124 downloads)
Last edited by Lugnutz; Sun Nov 21 2021 10:44 PM.
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430921 Sun Nov 21 2021 10:56 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,445
J
'Bolter
Problem solved, doesn't matter how it gets done as long as its right in the end.

For those that may not know what a bad lifter looks like, here are some I have pulled from Pontiac engines. The one on the far left is from a '67 that was stored for 20+ years, the owner would start it every year and let it idle for a while till it got where it wouldn't start, the cam was totally trashed and would barely open a valve. The real short ones ran for about 12 minutes before shutting off, the owner left out the cam retainer plate so the cam walked forward. A couple ran about 200 miles before take lobes off, and the one on the far right is still good just so you can see how much has worn on the others.

Attached Files
DSCN3160.jpg (112.12 KB, 130 downloads)
DSCN3165.jpg (112.87 KB, 132 downloads)
DSCN3166.jpg (168.22 KB, 128 downloads)
Last edited by Joe H; Sun Nov 21 2021 10:57 PM.
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430922 Sun Nov 21 2021 11:00 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,297
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Originally Posted by Lugnutz
**** MYSTERY OF THE BENT PUSH ROD ****I’ll wait for Jerry to say he’s seen this happen before.

As a matter of fact, yes I have- - - - -one of my trade school students decided he really didn't need air conditioning on his hotrod Monte Carlo, so he removed the compressor and all the associated brackets. That included one that was attached by two intake manifold bolts. When he reinstalled the bolts sans the bracket, one jammed the pushrod. In that case, the lifter operated ONCE- - - -bending the pushrod and holding the valve wide open. When the piston hit the valve, it bent it, along with breaking the rocker arm and putting a big gouge in the top of the piston. May I humbly suggest that you install a Heli-Coil thread repair in that stripped intake port thread and go back to a regular length bolt?

You're pretty lucky!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430925 Sun Nov 21 2021 11:16 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,349
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Lugnutz,

Kudos on the arthroscopic surgery to get that lifter back in place. thumbs_up
Although pulling the intake manifold might have been quicker. ohwell

Glad you got it all sorted out. Your story may help others when building an engine.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430927 Sun Nov 21 2021 11:23 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,513
L
Lugnutz Offline OP
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
May I humbly suggest that you install a Heli-Coil thread repair in that stripped intake port thread and go back to a regular length bolt?
Jerry

I think it was THIS bolt that stripped out. What would be the benefits of doing the heli-coil repair over using a longer bolt in that position?

Attached Files
6EFFA6E0-D6A4-427C-8956-BC55D8C13C6A.jpeg (103.06 KB, 104 downloads)
Last edited by Lugnutz; Sun Nov 21 2021 11:47 PM.
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430944 Mon Nov 22 2021 02:25 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,297
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
While you can engage part of the available thread depth with a longer bolt, you'll be sacrificing a good bit of clamping force by using only some of the thread. You're also threading into cast iron, not steel, which won't handle as much torque under ideal conditions. That bolt, and the next one in line straddle a coolant passage, not an intake port, so there will be more stress on the gasket when the cooling system pressurizes, possibly leading to a coolant/oil intermix if there's a leak into the valve valley. Lastly, the helicoil is a stainless steel thread, making it much less prone to strip than an equivalent diameter and pitch cast iron thread. If you choose, use a slightly longer bolt that will engage the entire thread depth.

Other than that, I guess there's not much advantage!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1430946 Mon Nov 22 2021 03:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,297
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
With that enlarged pushrod hole, you might be wise to install a self-aligning rocker arm. The hole is all that keeps the rocker from rotating off the top of the valve stem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163801790888?epid=140199121&hash=item262358f9a8:g:xjUAAOSwBh9dRDGP

Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1431028 Tue Nov 23 2021 01:42 AM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,513
L
Lugnutz Offline OP
'Bolter
I just got back in from the shop. I was able to use a borescope to confirm that there’s no obvious damage to the pistons or valves in cylinders #4 or #5.
I ordered the Heli coil kit today. I watched a video on how to install a Heli coil but it raises some questions in my mind.
Step one is to drill the hole to the correct size. I think the drillbit is included in the kit.
Step two is to tap new threads into the hole. I think the tap is also supplied in the kit. How difficult is it to tap threads in cast iron?
Step three is to put the heli coil into the newly threaded hole.
Step four is to install the 3/8-16 bolt. I have a fear that installing the bolt might push the Heli coil further into the head if the threads don’t mesh exactly right. Or is it a blind hole? See picture.

Attached Files
Re: What next? Engine break in completed.
Lugnutz #1431037 Tue Nov 23 2021 03:45 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,297
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Cast iron threads like butter- - - - - -you probably won't even need any lubricant. Just turn the tap about 1/2-3/4 turn at time, and back it up a little to break the chips off. A helicoil thread insert is compressed as it is installed with the included tool, and it expands to grip the walls of the hole when the installation tool removed. Once the thread insert is fully engaged, use a punch to break off the drive tab at the bottom of the insert and fish it out if the hole doesn't go all the way through. Clean up all the chips you create, obviously. I've also used a tiny bit of red loctite on thread inserts, then waited a few hours for it to cure and run a tap into the insert to make sure the bolt doesn't also get locked into place. I believe that end hole is blind, which also makes it important to use all the available thread depth without risking bottoming out the longer bolt and getting a false torque reading while getting little or no clamping force.

I'm very reluctant to use a torque wrench on parts with a compressible gasket between them, but nothing beats decades of experience and a few screwups to develop a feel for how tight is "just right". Good luck!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
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