Just an FYI for folks who might need a new 6 volt battery. I got one today off the shelf at Farm and Fleet. It was in stock and on the regular rack with all the other self-serve batteries. I was surprised I didn't have to ask special for it. They had over ten 6 volt on the shelves. It was $64.00 +tax for a 350 ampere battery. We'll see how long it lasts. My last regular lead acid just gave up the ghost after 8 years (it was 400 ampere).
I was wondering how the Farm & Fleet 6v battery is working out. I also bought mine from F&F. After a trickle charge is complete, engine cranks quite well, fires up and runs. I get the engine up to operating temp and then shut it down. It will not restart. The engine cranks way too slow. I have to wait till the next day to fire it up again after a charge. The grounding strap ends and frame were cleaned. There are no lights hooked up at this time.
There is: Rebuilt generator. Generator belt is good and snug. New voltage regulator. New 00 gauge negative battery terminal wire. Amp gauge that moves just slightly to the charge side if at all. Never see it go to discharge side.
Truck has never been roadworthy since I owned. I'm still restoring. I only fire it up now and then. The Optima batteries are high dollar. Not sure if I would be wasting my money.
Unrelated: If fuel gauge goes to full, might the sending unit be bad? I hooked up a wire to the neg. battery terminal and with the other end, contacted each of the wire points at the sending unit. This made no difference and not sure my method was even valid.
54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system. JB Weld..."I put that sh*t on everything"
I was wondering how the Farm & Fleet 6v battery is working out. I also bought mine from F&F. After a trickle charge is complete, engine cranks quite well, fires up and runs. I get the engine up to operating temp and then shut it down. It will not restart. The engine cranks way too slow. I have to wait till the next day to fire it up again after a charge. The grounding strap ends and frame were cleaned. There are no lights hooked up at this time.
There is: Rebuilt generator. Generator belt is good and snug. New voltage regulator. New 00 gauge negative battery terminal wire. Amp gauge that moves just slightly to the charge side if at all. Never see it go to discharge side.
Truck has never been roadworthy since I owned. I'm still restoring. I only fire it up now and then. The Optima batteries are high dollar. Not sure if I would be wasting my money.
Unrelated: If fuel gauge goes to full, might the sending unit be bad? I hooked up a wire to the neg. battery terminal and with the other end, contacted each of the wire points at the sending unit. This made no difference and not sure my method was even valid.
Sounds like you have a problem other than the battery. What is the battery post voltage after a failed start? What is that voltage just prior to a successful start? What is that voltage once the engine starts? (This will you know if your charging system is working.)
IF the cables are properly sized and all connections clean it sounds like a starter issue to me. FWIW you don't need an optima but having one doesn't hurt. I had a optima and got about eight years years out of it. It took a dump on a club tour one year and no one had an optima in stock so I went with an off the shelf from O'Reilly and it lasted about 8 years. Pull your starter and have it tested.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Will the warmed up engine crank if you use a 12V boost? It sounds like something might be binding up inside the engine like pistons fitted too closely the the cylinders. Is the engine freshly rebuilt, or does it have some miles on it?
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" Abraham Lincoln
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[quoteUnrelated: If fuel gauge goes to full, might the sending unit be bad? I hooked up a wire to the neg. battery terminal and with the other end, contacted each of the wire points at the sending unit. This made no difference and not sure my method was even valid.][/quote] Joe, See if these articles will help you. Harold
What gauge cables are you using? 6v systems require the heaviest cables you can buy - 1 gauge or 00 gauge starter cable.
I had a similar problem with my '56 Cadillac some years back. It would not turn over after a drive. It required an hour or so before the starter would work normally. It turned out the be a weak starter. It's worked perfectly after the rebuild for the last 18 years.
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) 1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe 1979 Ford F-100 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
