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New Forum Added in Parking Lot
EARLY BOLTS
1916 - 1936
1928 Chevrolet AB Canopy Express "Justin"
Discussing issues specific to the pre-1937 trucks.
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Forums64
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Most Online1,229 Jan 21st, 2020
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 596
OP
'Bolter
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I'm about to a point where I need to install cab insulation / sound deadener, If I'm going to install it at all. I'd like some advice on whether or not it is really worth it, and if so, what are the most important areas of the cab to install it in. Any other tips, info, etc. appreciated.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Ford Victoria 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 571
'Bolter
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My firewall pad was definitely worthwile for sound. My insulation under the rubber floor mat and the actual mat was a huge difference. The leftover heat reflective backed insulation that i pieced together and put above the headliner also made a noticeable difference. Mind you I was driving this truck the entire time since i leaned the parts together a few years ago. I drove it with the bed ratchet strapped down for months before i had the crossmembers, floor, hardware, ect……. So i could tell everytime I fixed a rattle or squeak or just tightened up something. The insulation and stuff I did inside was 100% worthwhile. The new door weatherstripping also helped. Now when you shut the door its a nice solid positive “thud” that you can tell is mostly air tight. The AC I have in it will make your legs go numb and the small recirculating heater I run in the dead of winter in CT has no problem keeping anyone in the cab nice and toasty. I also sealed up every single hole in the firewall with either a plastic plug or some kind of grommet/sealer combo. Only open holes into the cab are around the felt parts around where pedals come through floor.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,028
'Bolter
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i did not see a significant difference with the floor. I have not install on the roof under the headliner or in the doors yet. I feel that is going to be a big difference. It seems like most of the noise is coming from the roof.
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 596
OP
'Bolter
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Thanks guys. That is all very helpful. I have my cab pretty well sealed up as far as holes go. Based on your experiences, I’m going to go ahead with insulation. My truck is going to be a daily, short haul driver, so I want it to be reasonably comfortable.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Ford Victoria 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,234
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
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You won’t regret it one bit doing it all. I did my roof, doors, floor, back wall, and firewall and, as BarnFind says, my doors go “thud.” In fact the cab is so well sealed, it actually helps to crack a window or vent when I close the door as it “pressures up” when closing the door quickly. Toasty when I want it, too.
I used some dynamat deadener, but I did not cover each area fully, say roughly 65-75% on each area. I then covered all areas with the aluminum bubble foil insulation. It has been great.
Do it!
Last edited by Fox; Tue Oct 19 2021 03:31 AM. Reason: Awkward sentence
In the Stovebolt Gallery [ stovebolt.com] More pictures here [ photos.app.goo.gl] 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny! 1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10. 1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny. 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife’s Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 1951-GMC 9430 1951- Chevrolet 1300
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,182
'Bolter
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[ I used some dynamat deadener, but I did not cover each area fully, say roughly 65-75% on each area. I then covered all areas with the aluminum bubble foil insulation. It has been great.
[/quote]
I did the same thing but put carpet over the floor!
Chris
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