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1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
#1424345 Fri Sep 17 2021 04:41 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
Frame swap ’47 panel truck with ’88 k2500. I’ve had the panel truck for almost 30 years and daily driver for 10.
I started this build Two years ago, so I’ll post alittle build history each week until I’m caught up to real time progress.

I farmed out the heavy lifting and now work on what I can.
Before I get too far will it work? Here is what I mocked up.


The wheelbase is the first thing I considered when determining a donor frame. The 1947.2 wheelbase is 137". The 1988 K2500 single cab long bed wheelbase is 131.5".
The frame width is going to have to work. ’47 1 ton is about 35", the ’88 K2500 is 45". There needs to be 5" of clearance outside of the ’47 frame for this to work.


There is about 10" between the frame and running board.

The ’88 frame drops 8" under the cab. The ’47 battery tray will need to be trimmed. I’ll replace the battery tray with a box for storage or electronics.

Attached Files
47PanelTruck6.jpg (290.63 KB, 170 downloads)
MockUp.PNG (22.2 KB, 171 downloads)
FrameWidth.PNG (406.93 KB, 174 downloads)
47FrameToRunningboard.PNG (240.79 KB, 174 downloads)
FrameDrop.PNG (401.35 KB, 174 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1424350 Fri Sep 17 2021 05:05 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
I was concerned with ride height, so I measured from the top of the frame to the bottom of the springs. The ’47 is 10", the ’88 is 13". If I place the ’47 body on the ’88 frame, the relative position of the wheel to the wheel well will be 3" greater than the stock ’47.

The ’47 has 2" wood mounting blocks. There are rails across the bed underside. The bed can be mounted closer to the frame by removing the wood blocks and modifying the rails. It looks like I can set the ’47 body on the ’88 frame and maintain the stock ’47 stance.

I have LT245/75R16 tires on the rear currently. Those are about 30" tall. If I maintain this stance, the space between the top of the rear tire and the fender will be 4". The fender opening is 31" so I won’t run a taller tire without modification.

Attached Files
FrameToSpring.PNG (485.25 KB, 164 downloads)
BedToSpring.PNG (455.21 KB, 164 downloads)
WheelOpening.PNG (504.08 KB, 162 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1424351 Fri Sep 17 2021 05:08 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
This rear end is from an ’86 suburban. I chose rims for clearance of the tie rod ends, so ~4" back spacing. There is some room to move the wheels in with greater back spacing. I’ll get exact measurements for that. I planned on keeping the 8 lug rear axle, and modifying the front of the donor rig to 8 lug.

The rear tires are 74" wide and the front tires are 63" wide on the ’47.

The ’88 tires are 71". This will move the tires out 3.5" on the ’47. With an adjustment to the wheel back spacing, the tires should fit inside the fender.

Attached Files
RearWheelWell.PNG (576.1 KB, 162 downloads)
47Width.PNG (564.41 KB, 163 downloads)
WheelDifference.PNG (800.19 KB, 161 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1425073 Fri Sep 24 2021 03:24 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
Two years ago (9/2019) I drove my panel truck for the last time, as it was, to the resto shop. A week later I drove the ’88 GMC there, the panel truck was being dismantled and they hit me with a healthy bill.
One of the stipulations of the contract is that we meet once a week to go over progress, keep motivated, and settle up the bill.
Each week I visited the shop, a little progress being made. They stripped both trucks down faster than I could have. The body was on a cart, and the two frames were side by side. Comparing body mounting points and deciding how to modify the donor frame. The ’47 gas filler is on the passenger side. 1988 the filler is on the driver side, tank is inside the frame rail. Pre ’88 the tanks were outside the frame and an auxilliary tank could be added to the passenger side. That doesn’t appear to be an option here, the ’88 auxiliary tank was behind the axle and I want the spare tire there. It could be done, re-route the exhaust to the driver side and find a tank with the passenger side filler. There is the driver side transfer case, so exhaust would go below that. I decided to go with moving the filler to the driver side on the panel.
We used the brackets and frame ends from the ’47 frame. The original frame had extensions on the rear.
We decided a frame bracket template would be a good way to locate the body mount brackets.
With the Z-axis points determined, I want the body to ride at or near stock height, so the 2” wood blocks won’t be used. The 2” hat channel cross sills will be replaced with 1x2 tubing layed flat. This will put the bed as close as possible to the frame. All other mounting points are lowered about 3” relative to the bed mounts. Now all the brackets can be tacked in place, and the body will be test fit.

Attached Files
TruckFrames2.jpg (177.62 KB, 138 downloads)
47FrameExtension2.jpg (161.95 KB, 139 downloads)
FrameBracketTemplate.jpg (185.63 KB, 138 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1425074 Fri Sep 24 2021 03:26 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
12/2019
The ends of the ’47 frame were cut and grafted to the donor frame. The rear frame extension is offset lower for two reasons. The body will be closer to the frame so the rear bumper will be lower relative to the frame, and there is a rear cross sill attached to the body that mounts on top of the frame. The rear end was moved back. The front frame ends are narrower on the ‘47, They tried to use them, but decided to just fabricate something.
The plan was to measure everything again and bolt the rear in place. With the rear bolted in, roll it over to the alignment shop. After it’s dialed in, the rear hangers can be welded. I decided to leave the six bolt lugs for now. The 8 lug rear from the ’86 suburban is narrower between backing plates. I don’t know how the wheel mounting surface to wms compares to the ’88 6 lug. The 8 lug rear could fit with some modification. This can be done later, as the focus has shifted to the best use of funds to keep the project moving.
The body mounts are tacked in place and the engine is back on the frame.. A few bed boards are being used to locate the new 1” cross sills(1x2 tube). Next step is to mock up the body on the frame.

Attached Files
FrameExtRear.jpg (44.39 KB, 133 downloads)
BodyMountMockEdit.jpg (62.3 KB, 132 downloads)
BedMockEdit.jpg (42.58 KB, 132 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1425651 Fri Oct 01 2021 05:22 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
1/2020

The body is on the donor frame, (it has a 2x4 under the front in the picture), still needs some adjustments. The bottom of the firewall above the transmission will be modified. The rear of the rear inner wheel well will be trimmed to accommodate the leaf spring. The 1x2 cross sills have the bed as low as it can go without major mods.
The next step is to hang the fenders, start carving the front inner fenders, and locate the running board brackets. The front and rear running board brackets have conflicts, so will need to be moved. The radiator will need to negotiate it’s placement based on the location of the steering gear.
It was a good feeling to see the body on the frame, this is a good milestone in the build. There is still a long way to go, but this is a positive turn.

Attached Files
BodyOnFrame2.jpg (178.7 KB, 118 downloads)
BedOnFrame1.jpg (168.46 KB, 119 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1425652 Fri Oct 01 2021 05:24 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
3/2020

The rear fenders are set in place, and the runningboard brackets placement are being located. You can see where the Mr. Peanut was removed from the side, and the 5¢ on the door. The rear tire is inside the fender, I’m curious how the front tire will be. The rear wheel might could be moved ½” forward to center in the wheelwell. I didn’t measure, but it looks like the distance from the top of the tire to the wheelwell is close to the 4” = stock height. In my preliminary plans I figured the stock height could be preserved if we removed the 2” wood blocks, and replaced the 2+” hat channel cross sills with 1x2 tube. After teardown and using the body/frame template, we thought it would have a 2” lift. Now that it’s coming together, things are lining up well. There is plenty of clearance between firewall and engine. The firewall had to be modified just above the transmission, but not much. Next steps are to attach the runningboard brackets, modify the front inner fenders. Once the front fenders are in place, the core support will be addressed.

Attached Files
RunningBdRfenderDsEdit.jpg (46.03 KB, 116 downloads)
WheelwellRRedit.jpg (39.87 KB, 116 downloads)
FirewallEngineClearanceEdit.jpg (59.11 KB, 117 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1425653 Fri Oct 01 2021 05:26 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
3/2020

I like how the front tires don’t stick out of the fenders, they are just inside. I may be able to run wheels with a greater positive offset to suck the tires in. The fan and fan clutch are being greedy in the core support area. The plan was to get the grill and support panel mocked up and see how a radiator will fit.

Attached Files
RightFrontFender.jpg (39.96 KB, 114 downloads)
DriversSideFenders.jpg (41.43 KB, 115 downloads)
Fan Clearance.jpg (47.33 KB, 117 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1426154 Thu Oct 07 2021 05:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
4/2020

Things continued moving along. The front sheet metal is being fitted. Time to get everything mocked up, so I delivered some parts last week. Awhile ago I picked up a new GM steering column from someone who gave up on a jeep project.

While I was looking for similar builds, I saw on a build that used a Kugel Komponents Brake bracket. I called them and ordered separate Brake and Clutch brackets since they didn’t offer a separate clutch bracket. I need the clearance for the stock brake booster. Ordered on Tuesday, arrived on Thursday, Wow! I also went to the parts yard and cut a fuel filler door panel out of a Nissan, that was fun…

While all the heavy lifting was being done at the shop, I was busy back at the bench figuring how to run the original speedometer from the electronic signal of the newer transmission.

The grill being fitted. I got some seats from a Chevy Caravan. Mocking up the steering column, pedals, and seat.
The steering column is in as well as the Brake and Clutch assemblies. They used a section from the donor steering column to join the GM column to the donor shaft, needed about 7”. We also took the hole from the donor firewall. The pedal assemblies are in place. Still need to put in the donor gas pedal, and the foot starter bracket. The gas tank has been repositioned a little forward and a little down for clearance issues. The fuel filler door is in place. It looks like the battery will sit under the passenger seat. The original location was under the passenger floor, but with the wider frame that won’t work. There is an access cover under the seat, the battery can be lowered in and rotated to sit towards the outside. The exhaust runs through that area, but there’s enough room for a battery. The other option is to have the battery high on the inner fender, under the seat is a cleaner option.

Attached Files
SpeedometerMotor.jpg (67.83 KB, 104 downloads)
Grill.jpg (52.04 KB, 103 downloads)
SteeringBrakeClutch.jpg (75.25 KB, 104 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1426155 Thu Oct 07 2021 05:40 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
6/2020
The fuel filler door, looks like they had a **** of a time with that. It is what it is. We now have a bracket for the parking brake lever. Still working on the bracket for the foot starter linkage. The foot starter linkage will not include the arm that attached to the starter. It will just be the foot pedal and the curved bracket that it is attached to, and will mount on the body to actuate a momentary button. The plan is to have that done by next week and remove the body from the chassis to finish the welds on the body mount brackets.

I have been working on the radiator issue. The steering gear interferes now, and I am running the stock ’88 fan and fan clutch. I looked at using the original radiator shifted up or out at the bottom, there just isn’t room to go up much. I looked at using the ’88 radiator, I even tried a ’70 camaro radiator for fit as I read that might work. There are brackets behind the front grill that restrict that area. I drew up some plans and went to the radiator shop for feedback. They suggested I go with a modified downflow, mock it up in cardboard for fit. So that is what I did. My builder changed the core support bracket to accommodate a radiator. I drew up some final plans and am ready to go back to the radiator shop to have a custom radiator made. I will use the stock ‘50’s top tank (20”) and have the bottom tank cut down to just under 18”. There is a band on each side of the core, so the max width will be 18” with the core just under that. 25” tall with the frame and core support being different from stock there is room to go lower. We’ll use 2-row dimpled core, so I’m hoping it will be thin enough to not have to cut into the latch panel much. The top tank will be offset to the rear. I had been running a 235 inline six with the stock radiator mounted to the front of the core support, so there is about a 1 ½” cut out in the latch panel. The radiator should look right when in place. I’ll ask if we can fit in an oil cooler in the 2”x 18” gap.

Attached Files
FuelFillerBodyFiller.jpg (127.39 KB, 101 downloads)
CustomRad.jpg (74.86 KB, 100 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1426858 Thu Oct 14 2021 05:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
9/2020

The body is back off the frame, Body mounts are being welded on. The rear runningboard bracket conflicts with the spring perch. I collected the bed wood. I’ll glue up the cracks, clean it up, and finish. The wood is in pretty good condition considering the age.
I had created a spreadsheet of parts early on for the build. I started with a Jim Carter catalog. Went page by page, adding to my spreadsheet whatever I thought was needed. The list is in no particular order, so it’s kind of jumbled, but it works. I then went through an LMC catalog since I had one in hand. Classic parts website next. I have a list of each part with the price difference. I found most of the parts from these three suppliers, but there are some things that I had to search for. LMC has some good generic options that I couldn’t find at JC, or CP, like aftermarket seatbelts. I added Ecklers, they have specific parts I couldn’t find elsewhere, such as hood hinge bolts. I’m adding a door lock to the drivers side and since I already have a left hand housing, I just needed the key cylinder. Chevs of the 40s has the left door lock assembly for 1941-1948 cars. I found just the cylinder at autopartsobsolete for $20 less than the whole assembly. I’m adding rear lights from a ’39 sedan. I found about 3 different makes from several vendors. Olddogstreetrods had the ones for me, but they did not include the gasket. I found the gasket at the Filling Station, they had some other interesting parts. I got a hood side emblem from them. At this point I wasn’t going through my entire spreadsheet to compare all the prices, just select pieces. ClassicPartusa has the doorlock gasket, and spring for the rear door lock rod. Simple little things, maybe I’m not looking in the right place, but I couldn’t find those parts elsewhere. I also read about an alternative part for the rear door bumper from 80/20 Inc. I had read about Steele Rubber, so they are on the list. I’m going to really have to want their product since the prices a quite a bit higher. I placed an order from Jim Carter, and Classic Parts awhile ago. Last week I decided to get more stuff, so I placed orders with Ecklers, Chevsofthe40s, and Filling Station. Now that the frame has been worked out it’s on to the bodywork, prep for paint. I may be getting ahead of myself, but I don’t want to wait for some parts that I could have ready to go.

The frame is painted, next step is put the engine back on and reconnect the exhaust, and set up the parking brake cable. We’ll swap the left and right rear brake cables and locate the ends near the middle on a bracket. They will connect to the lever mounted to the right of the transmission. Painting the firewall and under body so the body can go back for the last time. Meanwhile I have been working on the speedometer drive, and refurbishing the speedometer. The bedwood is in pretty good condition, so I’m reworking that.

Attached Files
FramePainted.jpg (222.75 KB, 130 downloads)
Wormgear.jpg (136.53 KB, 129 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1426859 Thu Oct 14 2021 05:40 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
10/2020

The engine is back on the frame. Firewall is painted. I’ve told the builder to wrap it up. I’ll be hauling this home soon to take on the wiring etc. Once I get it home, progress will take a slower pace as will the outpouring of funds(my primary objection). I have decided to tackle the exhaust myself. It looks like the original hanger can be used and the pipe will be extended behind the muffler. As you may be able to see in the picture it only took cutting it up to figure this out. Actually looks like it originally dumps in front of the rear tire, so may not need to be extended at all. These little side track issues add up when it’s all billable time, just the nature of the beast. I’m not saying I could do it better myself, but I don’t know if I could do worse… I checked in yesterday and the body is on the frame. The lower rear corners are being repaired where the only rust through on this truck is. There is a significant dent above the drivers door, and a dent in the hood. There is also a crack in one of the rear doors. Once this body work is done, I’ll take it home.
The bed wood is in good condition, so I reworked it. There were a few cracks on some boards.
Here is a link to a post about the bed wood:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...store-original-bed-wood.html#Post1381523

Attached Files
EngineonFrame.jpg (221.47 KB, 126 downloads)
FirewallPainted.jpg (165.51 KB, 127 downloads)
BodyEngineonFrame.jpg (173.52 KB, 126 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1427926 Mon Oct 25 2021 06:25 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
11/2020


After a year at the shop, I brought the Beast home, placed in a tent and began checking things out.
I moved the boxes of old parts out and started surveying things. I made a list of what and when to do.
I finally heard back from the Radiator shop with an estimate so I’d be getting the radiator soon. I’ll be able to test fit it myself. They will tack the brackets on, if it fits well, I’ll have them finish it. I took the driveshaft to get it extended 4 ½ inches. (oops! Should have been 5 ½”, I’ve had 3 driveshafts custom cut on various vehicles and always get it wrong. Measure once and cut twice or something like that.)
I had refaced my speedometer, but discovered the high beam indicator lens was deteriorated. I found a refresh kit, so had to wait a week for that. After reassembly, the display would not read above 20MPH. I tore it apart again and discovered the spindle was independent of the speedcup. I glued the spindle and tried again. It took forever to get to top speed, and seemed to hang high before dropping. I tore into it again and found the speedcup binding. I removed the superglue, shimmed the speedcup and glued the spindle again, and again I didn’t get the orientation of the speedcup-to-stop correct. It didn’t rest firmly at 0. It was also binding again. I found that I could get just enough wiggle room to get clearance. I was able to loosen the screws of the speedcup assembly and spindle bracket and shift it enough to work. Once there was free movement, I looked at the stop tab. The speedcup tab was just past the stop tab, so I rotated it around and past the stop tab. I had to bend the stop tab up and then back to get the tab on the speedcup past. This put one revolution of tension on the spring. Now it didn’t read full scale, couldn’t overcome the spring tension. I tried to put it back and in the process of bending the stop tab, the tab broke off. I let the speedcup in it’s relaxed state, preset the spring by about 20 degrees, and glued a piece of wire as a stop. Upon reassembly, the old needle had a visible fracture, it broke. $8 and a week to wait, I glued the needle, and reassmebled. Now this old speedometer is working smooth and quiet.

Attached Files
PanelOnTrailer.jpg (402 KB, 109 downloads)
PanelInTent.jpg (221.37 KB, 109 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1427927 Mon Oct 25 2021 06:27 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
11/2020

I got a call from the radiator shop. I went to get my custom radiator for a test fit, they helped me load it into my pickup, and I asked if they wanted some money. He said I’d be back to have them attach the brackets and paint it. It is a pleasure doing business with someone who believes in the honor system. Although he was surprised when I returned later that same day with the position of the brackets already figured out. The fab shop left a brace tacked to the front of the core support that needed to go, so I needed to come up with an upper core support. I cut a length of hat channel from a bed cross sill that was removed. Fired up the ol’ Oxy Acetylene rig and had at it. I don’t have much time welding, but it came out o.k. except for one blow through. I’ll finish those welds later, probably remove the core support for that. I did weld the lumber rack that is on my pickup with Oxy Acetylene and it’s holding up so far. The custom radiator fits well, the sheet metal won’t need to be altered. The latch panel had been previously cut to accommodate the old radiator mounted to the forward of the core support. This new radiator does stick up a bit, I may be able to lower it a little, but I’m happy as it is.

Attached Files
RadiatorRaw.jpg (416.35 KB, 110 downloads)
RadiatorFit.jpg (209.67 KB, 111 downloads)
RadiatorFitSide.jpg (224.01 KB, 111 downloads)
RadiatorFitFan.jpg (167.75 KB, 110 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1428374 Fri Oct 29 2021 03:52 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
1/2021
Progress is slow, but steady. I’m lucky to get 2 hours a week in on this. In the last year I have chipped away at various tasks. I moved the rear shock brackets, axle bumps, and spare tire hanger back. I modified one shock bracket to fit where the frame narrows. I don’t have much experience welding, but I did watch a video where someone welded a patch panel without using any welding rod. I tried something like that here where I heated up the metal until it melted together, it seems to work.
I have also been working on the speedometer drive. I will be using the original speedometer with this modern drivetrain, so I have connected a motor to the speedometer. I finally hooked it up to a ’90 chevy truck and tested it out, here is a video I made of the ’47 speedometer running next to the ’90 speedometer in my truck:
https://youtu.be/K6YOm1WTpqg

I picked up a Millermatic 135 and have been playing with that. It’s like a hot glue gun, and not as forgiving as the oxy-acetylene rig in my opinion. I made the brackets for the tire hanger, and cleaned up the core support. I’ll use the Gmaw on the exhaust. I noticed a fuel line contacting a bracket, so I dropped the fuel tank to cut some clearance.
Painted the core support and set in place. Made a bracket and set up the parking brakes to connect to the floor lever.
There are always different trucks to pick from each time I go to the pick it yard. I was thinking about how I was working for an hour for a part that I could get new for $10 and they’ll charge me $5. I thought about giving up with each bolt, but persisted. I got the front brake line that crosses from the driver side to passenger in the front. It has a lot of bends. I finally found a DRAC. It was in a ’91 suburban, maybe ’92. The RPO code label was gone, so I don’t know what the diff and tires were and don’t know what the DRAC was set for. I do have some charts and it looks close to what I need and is easily adjustable. I did a bunch of math to try to figure out what it is set up for and found the ratio is set to 0.800185, I’ll need it at 0.768707, so that may be close enough. I also got an A/C compressor. They charged me $4 for the DRAC so it was a good day. Here is a picture of the spare tire hanger in place. I mounted the crank bracket lower so it angles down and the access is below the rear bumper. The spare does hang at a slight angle.

Attached Files
ShokBrktWeldPaint.jpg (237.47 KB, 94 downloads)
SpareTireHangerEdit.jpg (58.95 KB, 93 downloads)
BrakeCables.jpg (51.82 KB, 93 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1428376 Fri Oct 29 2021 03:55 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
5/2021

I may have been better off to follow my instinct when I was wrestling bolts in the pick-it yard. The brake line that I got just would not attach to the brake hose on the passenger side. It seems to be metric. So the ’88 gmc has SAE brake fittings and the ’95 chevy has metric brake fittings. I haven’t found any information on when the change was made. I searched for brake hose and found only SAE for the whole range of years, ’88 to ‘98. The brake line kits that I found don’t specify if metric or SAE, only that they work for a range of years 88-89, 90-94, and 95-98. I searched for an adaptor and made several trips to various stores. I found a M10-1.0 female to 3/8-24” female adaptor. With that I was able to verify the fittings that I have. I did order a M10-1.0 to 3/8-24” adaptor but it didn’t specify how it went. Another trip to the auto parts store when they came in only to discover it was backwards from what I need. In the end I purchased a Flaring tool. I used the fittings from my old line, and put them on the new to me line. Now the line is in place I’m ready to cut the rod to the brake booster, thread it, and connect to the pedal. I haven’t used a flaring tool before. I watched some videos, and read some web posts. I decided to try the cheepo tool. Did a couple practice flares to figure out some bugs. I set the tool in a vise and used visegrips to keep the two halves level. I had read that there could be problems if the two halves are not level. I also read to set the tube length to a chamfer on the die, but the cheepo die doesn’t have much of a chamfer. I pressed the die. The claws on this version don’t have a consistent flat area, so the press tries to lean. I press some and then flip it around and so on. The two bars don’t seem to clamp together leaving a gap. The 3/8 part is near the end. I found that clamping the end more first and then tightening the other end gave better results. The second pressing without die was pretty straight forward. The end result looks good to me. There was a ridge on each side where the bar gap was, so I filed that down. The true test will be with pressure in the line.

Attached Files
FlareSetup.jpg (57.05 KB, 93 downloads)
FlareDieSet.jpg (54.69 KB, 92 downloads)
FlareHalfway.jpg (52.73 KB, 91 downloads)
Flare45set.jpg (49.07 KB, 92 downloads)
FlareDone.jpg (49.19 KB, 91 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1429302 Fri Nov 05 2021 05:47 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
5/2021
Moving right along with some possible tool abuse(I hate tool abuse). I purchased a couple dies and a die stock. I have no experience with threading rod. The brake and clutch rods have an eye at the end and are too long for the pedals, so the plan was to cut to length and thread them. I looked into my options and found few. I did read that it is not uncommon to modify the rod length when converting to power brakes in ‘60’s trucks. I watched a few videos and quickly learned that the hex dies are for chasing threads, round dies are for cutting. I had the hex, bummer. I watched a few more videos and found someone brute force some threads, no chamfer, no oil. I decided to not buy more tools and just go for it. Upside down under dash I worked the brake rod for about an hour. I couldn’t remove the clutch pedal, so I took out the bracket and the clutch rod fell out. That took about 10 minutes in a vise, but one side the threads were not deep. I think the clutch rod is out of round, but the nut and clevis threaded on o.k. I decided to remove the brake pedal bracket and paint both pedal assemblies. I’ll have to remove them again when I paint the firewall, but I need to bleed the brake and clutch for now.
6/2021

I bled the brakes with no trouble. The clutch, different story. After endless trying to bleed the system, I discovered a nick in the hydraulic line. Replaced the line, but still couldn’t get pressure. New cylinders got it done, good firm pedal, but… The firewall flexes a lot. I push down about an inch, then the firewall pops, flexes an inch, then the pedal can be depressed the rest of the way. I thought any flexing would be much more subtle. I have read about reinforcing the firewall for the brake booster, I guess I wanted to see what would happen, and my builder didn’t know about this issue.
7/2021
I have painted the rest of the bed rub rails and have been figuring out what bolts are needed. The cross sills were replaced with 1x2 so the bolt lengths will be different. I got the bolts for the perimeter and have painted the heads Gray. I wanted black bolts for the rails, and decided grade 5 black oxide bolts is the way to go. I could only find black painted grade A carriage bolts locally, so I ordered some from McMaster-Carr. It may be overkill, but I think it will work good. I had ordered an exhaust tailpipe from a parts store, got it set in place and checked for clearance of the spare tire.

Attached Files
ThreadBrakeRod.jpg (148.67 KB, 72 downloads)
ThreadedBrakeRod.jpg (136.88 KB, 72 downloads)
TailpipeAndSpare.jpg (46.39 KB, 72 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1429927 Fri Nov 12 2021 05:50 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
9/2021

I need to put in more time welding, but I think the exhaust system should work with the crusty welds I put on it. I also welded some on my Toy P’up exhaust before going on vacation, that seems to be o.k. Back from vacation I have been working on the firewall flex by the clutch pedal. I made a cardboard template before I cut a piece of 1/8” sheet metal. Kind of went down a rabbit hole here when I realized the firewall should be painted now. There was some matting left on the passenger side, a heatgun and power scraper helped remove that.
The patch job that the restoration shop did looks great on the engine side, not so good on the inside. I’ll put matting over this so I left it as is.
I test fit the stiffener plate and found the firewall was not flat. I don’t know if that’s how they are, or if it warped when the steering column hole was relocated. I added a bolt to the corner to draw it tight.
I decided now is a good time to paint the inside of the dash. I started with a wire cup brush on a drill and got the firewall and kick panels. A wire cup brush and sanding disk on a dremel fit up under in the tight spaces. This has got to be the most miserable task of the build. Upside down grinding rust above.

Attached Files
FirewallDamperRemoval.jpg (50.15 KB, 68 downloads)
ColumnPatch.jpg (50.13 KB, 68 downloads)
PlateTestFit.jpg (46.41 KB, 67 downloads)
DashInner.jpg (35.7 KB, 67 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1429929 Fri Nov 12 2021 05:52 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
9/2021
I applied Ospho to everything, and then Rusty Metal Primer. And finally painted with the Dark Bronze, the imperfections stand out.
I cut some roofing tar paper to place between the firewall and stiffener. I thought it needed something as a buffer from physical wear and noise. The pedals back in and no more flex. I still need to adjust the pedal angle, but will get to that later.

Attached Files
FirewallOspho.jpg (54.99 KB, 63 downloads)
FirewallPrimer.jpg (34.1 KB, 63 downloads)
FirewallinPainted.jpg (54.1 KB, 63 downloads)
FirewallStiffener.jpg (55.5 KB, 63 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1430705 Fri Nov 19 2021 06:54 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
9/2021

Now I’m on to painting the cargo area, all the inside grey. I bought several cans of different grays this summer. Sprayed a test panel and found Krylon Fusion Matte Deep Gray 2914 to be a good match to the original color.


I went over the driver side cargo area with a scrub pad, and applied Ospho for the rust. The Ospho was a sticky mess on the paint so I used a cleaner degreaser. Then taped around the edges and applied two coats of spraypaint. I like how it turned out, I’ll go on to the passenger side this afternoon. The picture shows the passenger side as it is, and the driver side after paint. After the sides, I’ll do the rear area and then the front. After the Grey, I’ll do the rest of the Bronze including dash if I get to it while the weather is still warm.

Attached Files
CargoPaint.jpg (66.25 KB, 55 downloads)
Last edited by walterhvogel; Fri Nov 19 2021 06:59 PM. Reason: sequence

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1430706 Fri Nov 19 2021 07:02 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
9/2021
I decided to do the passenger side cargo area differently. I used a wire cup brush on it, and then ospho, cleaner degreaser, and then the two coats of grey. I then painted the strip at the front of the bed wood, and the rear threshold. Then it was time to install the wood. I started at the sides and placed bolts finger tight. I had to modify a few holes that were mis aligned, and drill some holes that were missing. I got all the bed wood and bolts in from above until the last plank. I went below and put on the nuts and washers for the last plank, then tightened everything up. It was nice to use painted bolts, the job was done once the wood was installed. Three planks have a T-nut at the front end, maybe for attaching something across the floor? I replaced one T-nut that was missing and installed bolts in the three places.

9/2021
I had to make some plow bolts for the strip that goes across the rear of the bed wood. I could not locate the ¼” size. These are called Countersunk carriage bolts aka 114 deg countersunk square neck bolts aka Flat square neck plow bolts. This is a ¼” bolt maybe ¼-20, and about 1 ¼” long. I got elevator bolts and ground them down to size and profile. Here is a post I started: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...i-get-rear-endcap-bolts.html#Post1416343

It got cold and rainy here, so I moved on from paining for a few days before I could complete bed assembly, but finally had a couple nice days to get it done. In the mean time, I mangled up the power steering lines to clear the inner fender.

This weekend was a good time to go to the pick it yard. There was only one Chevy truck, but it was a ’89. I got the A/C bracket. My ’90 k1500 has cast brackets, but the ’88 k2500 has pressed steel brackets. The ’89 also has the pressed steel brackets, so it will bolt right on. I also found another DRAC from an Astro van, I’ll use that for my speedometer drive project for a bench setup. I had previously purchased seats from an Astro, but they don’t clear the storage cover in the seat riser. I found a ’99 Honda CRV and the seats look good and fit. I crawled all over the seats when removing and they were dry, then put the driver seat on it’s side in the back of my truck. When I unloaded it there was a wet spot that smelled like a dead animal. I dumped some cat spray cleaner on it and have a fan blowing, so I hope I can freshen it up. I’ll modify the mounting brackets and get them bolted in. I like that they are narrow and leave some room to access the cargo area.
I also got the steering sector shaft from the ’89 chevy. I dismantled it to see how it goes together. I’m looking for a clean way to extend the steering shaft. I can get a ¾”dd shaft and machine it to replace the stock length with a longer one. I had thought about adding a length of shaft, but it looks easy enough to just put a longer one in there.

Attached Files
WoodInstall1.jpg (39.1 KB, 185 downloads)
T-NutWood.jpg (38.39 KB, 185 downloads)
PlowBoltsInstalled.jpg (27.94 KB, 184 downloads)
BedInSeatFit.jpg (50.25 KB, 184 downloads)
SteeringMangle.jpg (185.5 KB, 184 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1431091 Tue Nov 23 2021 08:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
10/2021
I’m having a hard time focusing on one task, so getting a bunch of little things done. I bent the seat brackets so the mounting hole is parallel to the floor, that lowered the seats a couple inches. I played around with seat placement looking at how they clear the floor access covers and spacing between the two seats. I decided the driver seat should be centered with the steering wheel, it could go out an inch to increase the gap to the other seat, but driving comfort is more important. With the seats positioned I finalized steering wheel location. I’m not satisfied with the resto shops extension on the steering shaft, so I decided to put in a longer DD-shaft. I tore the steering shaft apart to see what could be done. I purchased a 2’ long 3/4” DD-shaft, machined out a channel for a spring, cut to length, and drilled a hole. Now it’s painted black and almost ready for assembly. I’ll check the hole size before putting the pin in.
I partially assembled the front end with inner fenders and grill to fit the oil cooler radiator. I have determined how long the hoses need to be and will go to the hose shop this week. I also looked at the upper radiator hose, marked the stock radiator hose where it needed to be different and took it to the auto parts store. I looked through their rack and found four good candidates, the one I picked fits. Turns out it is for ’73 to ’83 chevy 4x4 lower hose P/N 7581.
I also started on the t-case shifter position. I bent the linkage in about 2” and built a cardboard bracket. I’ll crawl underneath and see how the bracket fits sometime when the ground isn’t too muddy.
With most of the fluid hoses lined up, the last one is the heater hoses. The supply comes from the rear top of the engine, originally a quick connect. I went to look, but something funny, had to get the shop light to see what was going on. O.K. the resto shop was a little too quick disconnecting it I guess because I found the hose had been disconnected and the fitting was snapped in half. I guess I won’t have the joy of breaking it myself. I had read up on this part being prone to break if you looked at it funny and was interested in replacing it with a nipple. Not surprised to find that it had broke, but surprised they neglected to mention it.

Attached Files
SteeringShaftCustom.jpg (33.97 KB, 179 downloads)
MetalRouterWork.jpg (64.16 KB, 180 downloads)
RadiatorHoseUpper.jpg (61.76 KB, 179 downloads)
TcaseRodMod.jpg (47.96 KB, 179 downloads)
HeaterHoseDisconnect.jpg (58.33 KB, 179 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1431094 Tue Nov 23 2021 08:23 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
10/2021

That heater hose coupler fragment came out with little effort and the right tool. Now I need to get a replacement fitting and hose, and coolant.
I asked about getting hoses made at the local Flaps, they said they only do hydraulic. I went to a hose business, they only do hydraulic, but recommended a rubber business down the road. I went there and they came up with a solution for the oil cooler lines using Air Brake hose. I put that in and it looks like I got the lengths right. Now I need to come up with a bracket for the oil radiator, and the power steering radiator.
I re-assembled the steering shaft with the custom dd shaft, and put it in place. I like it.

Attached Files
ExtractedHeaterConn.jpg (55.4 KB, 174 downloads)
OilCoolerLines.jpg (248.39 KB, 175 downloads)
OilCooler.jpg (74.67 KB, 175 downloads)
SteeringShaftModified.jpg (79.4 KB, 174 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1432189 Fri Dec 03 2021 04:42 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
I haven’t put in much time now that it is cold and wet. I purchased the hose fitting for the heater hose, 7’ of heater hose, and a valve. I installed the fitting and started routing the hose. That required putting in the old fresh air heater. The original valve started leaking years ago and I had replaced it with a valve with a thumb screw, that was always hard to operate. I got a new valve for cable operation that I will figure out how to use. I’m not sure if it will be with the original control knob and some custom linkage, or something else. I never did like how I had to reach over to the passenger side to operate it, so I might locate it closer to the driver side. Once I get the fluids topped up, it’s on to wiring so I can fire it up. I have been poring over the wiring diagrams for the ’88. I removed the harness from under dash from the donor cab and started ohming out connectors. I’ll modify it some. The ’88 harness has a bulkhead connector on the driver side that goes to a convenience center, a fuse panel, the gage cluster, and some connectors in the dash, it also goes over to the passenger side to connect to wires from another bulkhead passthrough, wiring for the ECM. I’d like to eliminate the bulkhead connector, and reduce the size of the bulkhead passthrough.


1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1436326 Thu Jan 06 2022 07:37 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
It wasn’t raining and I had some time, so I opened up the bulkhead passthrough. It had a chunk of glue inside. I was able to shatter it with pliers. I stuffed the end through the heater valve hole. It’s a tight fit with the split loom tubing protecting the wires from the sheet metal, I might add a grommet.
When I was fitting the old heater, I looked in the parts boxes for the gasket. I discovered the gasket set I purchased is for ‘55+. I also found some busted studs in the mounting holes, so I’ll have to get those out first. I just ordered the gaskets for left and right side vents, and I decided now is a good time to install the inner firewall cover, so ordered that too.
The upper cowl vent has a broken hinge rivet, but I wanted to see how that all goes together and discovered the lever mechanism conflicts with the firewall mounted brake pedal. I’ll move the pedal over ½” or so.

Attached Files
BulkheadPassthrough.jpg (50.32 KB, 146 downloads)
BulkheadPassthroughRemoved.jpg (63.44 KB, 147 downloads)
NewBulkheadPassthrough.jpg (58.62 KB, 147 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1437763 Tue Jan 18 2022 06:39 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
We had snow for a couple weeks, I knocked 2” off the car tent. Even before that the 1 year old car tent was showing it’s age. There were leaks around the edges, the roof also seemed to either leak through, or just a lot of condensation. I had set up a utility shelf with the press board shelves. The shelves are all bowled. I have tarps over some things and a fan running constantly inside the truck to keep mildew down. After the snow melt, I placed a new tarp over the car tent. That blocks whatever light was getting through the car tent. I added a couple light bars to the inside. I also splurged and got an insulated coverall for myself. With my work environment slightly improved I spent 4 hours and moved the brake pedal over an inch. Now it clears the vent handle. I started looking at the gas pedal. The pedal from the ’88 GMC is an odd fit here. My ’55 bus has a similar pedal, but it may have been modified. The original ’47 pedal, the braket was removed at the resto shop without any plans on how to proceed. I had purchased a linkage for converting 6 to v8 that I hadn’t used and looked at that. That might work with the original pedal, if I can get a bracket. I was trying to figure out how to mount it to the firewall and found a location that might work just next to a bend in the sheet metal. I’ll try to find a gas pedal bracket, listed as an Accelerator Pedal Brake in the FAM. I’ll also consider other options. Meanwhile, the foot starter pedal is positioned near the edge of the hole, so I’ll move that over and down to center it. With the V8, the pedal bar is mounted to the firewall, no longer the bell housing. So more extra holes in the firewall.

Attached Files
Vent_Brake_Interference2a.jpg (44.05 KB, 127 downloads)
BrakeBraketMove.jpg (46.24 KB, 132 downloads)
GasPedalBracketRemoved1.jpg (63.27 KB, 128 downloads)
55BusGasPedal.jpg (43.71 KB, 130 downloads)
88GmcGasPedal.jpg (41.61 KB, 128 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1440699 Thu Feb 10 2022 08:24 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
I decided to use the donor gas pedal. I made a bracket and welded it in place. The pedal feels good. I’ve been doing a bunch of smaller tasks. I replaced a captive nut on the passenger cowl vent, drilled holes to mount the power bus and relays, made a list of fasteners needed, fastened the steering column to firewall bracket. The ground isn’t too muddy so I crawled underneath and checked and topped off the synchromesh transmission fluid. I checked the fit of the transfercase shifter bracket template that I had made awhile ago. I modified the template and will check for fit again.

Attached Files
PedalBracketFab1.jpg (91.12 KB, 108 downloads)
PedalBracketFab3.jpg (65.2 KB, 109 downloads)
PedalBracketWelded.jpg (62.01 KB, 108 downloads)
PedalInstalled.jpg (53.36 KB, 106 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1443097 Tue Mar 01 2022 07:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
I made a bracket for the oil cooler radiator, and hung the power steering radiator off the front of that.
My welding skills are improving slightly. I needed additional clearance on both inner fenders. I have a dolly that came with an old toolbox and with ball peen hammer proceeded to pound out some bowls. I haven’t done that since middle school metal shop. It was easy. I got a plastic firewall cover and realized it may be more trouble than it’s worth. It needs to go in before wiring, but after anything bolted to the firewall is in place. I made a cardboard template and cut out for the brake and clutch pedal brackets. I test fit it and then cut the plastic cover. The holes for heater motor and hoses were just marked, and cutting the plastic with a utility knife is slow going on the round holes. I have that task to finish next time. I received the starter switch and solenoid and a new catalog full of neat parts that I may never order, but I like to look. I put a spring on the foot starter bracket, but it was too weak. Another trip to the hardware store, I got a couple more springs to try. Now with the button in hand, I’ll make a bracket for the starter button.

Attached Files
PsBracket.jpg (93.25 KB, 87 downloads)
FirewallTemplate.jpg (53.56 KB, 88 downloads)
FirewallPanelCut.jpg (95.48 KB, 87 downloads)
StarterButton.jpg (71.68 KB, 87 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1444807 Wed Mar 16 2022 04:54 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
It’s been cold and wet out, but I have been doing several small tasks simultaneously. I sketched out plans for the starter button bracket. Cut the sheet metal and then had to wait until I could go get a 1” hole saw. Cut the hole and bent the bracket. Now I’m waiting for a dry warm day to paint it. I cut and bent the bracket for the transfer case shifter. I still need to contour the triangle pieces and weld them on (template pictured). Getting the cooler brackets painted, off to the side in the picture is a cover pan from a Hammond Organ. I found that while cleaning up after tearing down my workshop, thought it would make a good heat shield for the exhaust. I had purchased a heat shield from one of the parts vendors not knowing the dimensions, it was about 8” square.

Attached Files
StarterButtonBracketDrawing.jpg (44.96 KB, 65 downloads)
MarkedSheetmetal.jpg (89.35 KB, 66 downloads)
StarterButtonBracket.jpg (58.27 KB, 66 downloads)
TcaseShiftBracketTemplate.jpg (74.23 KB, 64 downloads)
CoolerBracketPainted.jpg (118.95 KB, 66 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1446544 Wed Mar 30 2022 06:58 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
I have mounted the Oil cooler, and the power steering cooler. Last week it was cold and rainy, but I had some time. I cut the bulkhead connector of the wiring harness and ran the wires through the firewall at the original location.
This week I spent some time placing the starter button bracket. After I got it located and bolted in place I like the way it felt when pushing with my foot. The button screw terminals were really close to the bell housing, so I decided to relocate it. I made another shorter button bracket, added an extension to the foot bracket. I bolted in the shorter button bracket but the pedal throw wasn’t long enough. I was ready to give up for the day, but decided to use the first bracket in the new location. It worked well.
Welded some reinforcement on the transfer case shifter bracket.

Attached Files
BhConnWireLabel.jpg (41.07 KB, 45 downloads)
BulkheadConnDeleted.jpg (32.16 KB, 45 downloads)
StartLinkFinalMount.jpg (69.03 KB, 46 downloads)
StartButtonBrktMounted.jpg (59.75 KB, 46 downloads)
TcaseShiftBrktWelded.jpg (77.09 KB, 45 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1448723 Tue Apr 19 2022 06:54 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
I think I’m getting better at welding. I decided the Left inner fender was good enough after welding and grinding multiple times. It’s no show winner, but it will be mostly out of sight. I applied Ospho, and some paint. I reworked some of the Right inner fender to eliminate the pin holes. I have watched a few videos, and read on a few welding forums. I read that there are three reasons for popping: Dirty tip, tips too big, or too much oxygen. Adjust the bigger flame to just before matching the smaller flame, adjust too far and it’s an oxidizing flame. With this info I got smaller welding rod, lowered the oxy pressure, and dialed the flame down to where I could just hear it. This combination worked with what I have to work with. I could use a smaller tip, but I’m happy with the results.
The battery has to go somewhere, as does the coolant reservouir. I put the Right inner fender back on the truck and used a cardboard template for the battery to determine placement. Some cutting and metal forming in the rain, a 4x4 was handy at the time. I’ll use the donor battery tray, it has a screw down block that grips the bottom edge of the battery. The test fit looks good, and the battery clears the hood spring.
After the inner fenders are installed, I can put in the inner firewall pad. I wirebrushed the dash and floor, applied Ospho, primered, and started paint.

Attached Files
InFendWeldFix.jpg (122.41 KB, 43 downloads)
InnerFendMarkCut.jpg (66.05 KB, 43 downloads)
MetalWorkinRain.jpg (87.49 KB, 43 downloads)
BattCoolFit.jpg (58.94 KB, 43 downloads)
HoodSpringtoBattClear.jpg (51.1 KB, 43 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1449690 Wed Apr 27 2022 07:52 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
The weather is getting nicer, so I’m getting stuff done. I picked up some sheet metal from the local hardware store for the battery box. I cut out and pieced together the box overlapping the new 22Ga onto the rusty 18Ga. By the time it was done I was feeling more confident in my welding that I considered just making the whole box instead of piecing it together. I won’t get any welding certifications from this, but it will be functional.
Between welds, I worked on fitting the inner firewall cover. Set it in place, check for fit, mark, remove, cut and repeat many times. I realized that I do not have to have the inner fenders installed before installing the inner firewall cover since the fenders bolt to the kick panel. Progress is progress. The dash paint came out nice. It’s never too late to organize fasteners. I got tired of looking through the pile of bags of screws trying to figure out what was what.

Attached Files
CuttingTin.jpg (70.43 KB, 30 downloads)
BendingTin.jpg (57.67 KB, 30 downloads)
Welding22Gato18Ga.jpg (84.88 KB, 30 downloads)
FittingInnerFWcover.jpg (58.39 KB, 31 downloads)
OrganizingScrews.jpg (63.96 KB, 31 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
walterhvogel #1451251 Tue May 10 2022 07:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
W
'Bolter
The weather got nicer for a few days, so I got on the ground and put in fresh oil. I checked the transfer case, it was low so I changed the fluid. I got an economy squeeze bulb and spent probably an hour moving 2 ½ quarts. The shifter gasket was in bad shape on the 5LM60, I found a gasket for an NV3500 and swapped that out. I’m not completely satisfied as the gasket is thick rubber and the top cover shifts slightly as I move the shifter. The bolts need to be tightened down more to minimize this movement, but they are steel bolts going into an aluminum housing. When I got the donor truck the shifter was really loose. I found the top bolts were loose and two of them the threads were stripped. I put in helicoils for those two, helicoils into the top of an aluminum transmission case. I don’t like the movement in the top cover, I may put the original gasket back in as it is thinner and has a metal plate. I also attached the inner fenders.
On to the interior wiring harness. I cut off the bulkhead connector, labeling each wire. Next I cut off the convenience center, then I cut the buzzer module and the relay sockets from the convenience center. I laid out the remaining harness, cut off the electrical tape, and started grouping and bundling wires. I sorted out the wires from the convenience center that I wont use, I could wrap these up out of the way, or I may remove them. With the harness loose I was able to reshape it to some degree. I’ll need a way to mount the fuse panel, so I made a box. The buzzer and relays will fit below the fuse panel.
I’m also getting everything under the dash ready. I decided to go over the heater before putting it back in.

Attached Files
InnerFenderInstall.jpg (54.57 KB, 12 downloads)
TrimmingWiringHarness.jpg (73.85 KB, 12 downloads)
CuttingFusePanelBox.jpg (74.89 KB, 12 downloads)
FusePanelBox.jpg (87.34 KB, 12 downloads)
Heater.jpg (67.48 KB, 12 downloads)

1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1 ton
1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
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