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Fixing the old truck

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#1421478 Sun Aug 22 2021 01:38 AM
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 96
D
'Bolter
I am trying to install new window channels in my 1949 Chevy truck. I currently have the glass and crank out of the door. Old channel is out. I have tried window channels from two different vendors and have ruined both trying to install them. The problem I have is the window channels want to kink when I try to put them in the doors. I've ordered another set, but really don't want to destroy another set. They are getting expensive. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. I've watched the Youtube videos from USA1 Industries and they make it look like a piece of cake. Unfortunately, I have not had the same results.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8,100
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The window channel is corrugated metal inside, so should form around corners without kinking. I haven't attempted installing mine yet, but maybe devise a tool like a paddle with the same thickness as the glass to push the channel into the corners. The paddle may prevent the sides from collapsing into the space where the glass goes.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 216
D
'Bolter
I think I used a heavy paint stick like the ones they give you at big box stores with a 5 gallon bucket of paint.


1957 Chevy 3200
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8,100
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by DES57
I think I used a heavy paint stick like the ones they give you at big box stores with a 5 gallon bucket of paint.
Good idea. I have about 20 of those. wink


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,345
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
When I installed my window channels I "fit them to the window" first. I clamped a door window into a vice using paint sticks between the widow surface and vice jaws. I measured the distance of the window channel straight section from the retainer in the bottom of the door door up to the "radius " in the door window opening ( tangent point where the straight part ends and the radius begins ) . I then marked the channel section using that length to establish where the bend would start. I marked the window with a Paint line at that same radius and then placed the channel against the window lining up the two marks and then carefully formed the window channel over the window. This allowed me to make that radius bend very accurately.


Ron - - Dusty53
"you can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell"
" They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel"

1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,727
5
Renaissance Man
I first straighten the channel. I don't know why the manufacturers bend them in the opposite direction. Maybe they naturally bend in that direction without kinking.
I then insert one end into the rear of the door until it engages with the doohickey at the bottom of the door channel. The extra length will go straight up in the air outside of the window opening.
I then carefully make the first bend to fit the radius of rear of the door. The long end of the channel will extend past the front of the cab.
I then carefully make the second bend to fit the radius of the front of the door. This can be done without inserting the channel inside of the door. it can hang outside of the window opening.
I then remove the channel from the door, then install it by inserting both ends into the door channels.
Don't worry about engaging the front end into the doohickey at the bottom of the front door channel. Allow it to go past the end of the door channel at this time, as it will need to be cut to length later.
Now roll the window up to aid in forming the channel to fit the glass. The cornes will have some kinks which can be worked into place with wide screw driver.
Once the channel fits the glass with the window all the way up you can mark the front end of the channel to cut to the proper length and insert it into the doohickey at the bottom of the door channel.

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 96
D
'Bolter
Carl, that is interesting. All the videos I watched showed putting the window felt channel in before putting the window and rolling mechanism in the door.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,727
5
Renaissance Man
The Manual instructions describes replacing it with the glass installed.

Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 103
D
'Bolter
I know this thread is old - but where did you guys get your channel. I ruined two that were bent the WRONG way from the supplier. Straightening first, then bending correctly didn't work, even using my glass as a form.


DonBolt
1955.1 3100
235, 12v, 5-window, 5 speed
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,727
5
Renaissance Man
They are all bent wrong by the vendors. You just need to go slow and massage them as you go. The metal is crimped up like an accordion, making it possible to get it to work.

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