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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 857
Craig, have you used the Eastwood contour SCT for pain removal? Any suggestion of what type head to use and how quickly does it fill up before you have to put on a new one. I want to strip my rear fenders and bed sides. The paint is bubbling in some places from surface rust under the paint.

Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,813
Crusty Old Sarge
Eastwood has a few different heads for paint stripping, I have an 80 grit that works great on things with multi paint layers. I have used it on the front fenders and doors skins with great success, it works quickly and leaves a surface ready for primer. As with any power sander you just need to keep it moving to avoid any real heat build up, other than that it been great.

Last edited by TUTS 59; Thu Aug 05 2021 05:48 PM.


Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!!
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,646
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
I'm a 40-60-80 grit on a DA with a die grinder sanding disc to get in the corners kind of guy. If it doesn't get shiny, it gets cut out and replaced. Followed by epoxy.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,934
Sir Searchalot
We have moved away from the issue. It's the inside floor of a truck that, after all these years, is not rusted out. Just rusty. Needs wire wheeled, converted and painted with spray cans. Some of the comments and suggestions are for outside of the vehicle or frame and hard parts. Most info here is too much work and not necessary for this specific question. I'm surprised no one has said powder coat or remove the floor and then junk the truck. smile

Sanding will not get into the floor pan joints or the stiffening dimples very well and may thin good metal while trying. In this specific question, wire wheel is the answer. A knotted wheel may be too aggressive, The crimp type may be better in this case. The modern converters/encapsulators specifically say you don't need shinny metal. They react to the rust as part of the gig.

This is a mental issue. Us old school guys have a hard time trusting this science. We are used to getting all the rust off down to shinny. Like doing an expensive paint job on a truck body. This ain't that and the conversion/encapsulation chemistry/science is proven. I don't see any flaking or sheets coming off but I only have one picture to look at. It looks like floors I've had a few dozen times. I do live in an area where there is no snow or rain or moisture of any kind except if you run over a toad. Which we don't have because they need water and mud to live in.

Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 372
You make that joke Bartamos, but I would powdercoat it in a heartbeat if I could figure out how to make that work. I looove me some powdercoated parts...

I pulled the rest of the carpet while I could still stand and the rest looks about the same. When/if the drivetrain comes out I will give the bottom side the same treatment, but for now this will do the job.

58 Apache, long bed fleetside, V8 w/SM420
Drivable but the rear axle needs work.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,934
Sir Searchalot
As usual, it's what I would do, not what to do.

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 275
Just want to re-emphasize the need for a little rust for the encapsulator to bond to. Specifically if you use the Rustoleum brand. I've used it on lots of small parts. If you remove all of the rust, then the encapsulator won't bond properly and will flake off in short order. Bare (not rusty) metal needs something like a self etching primer.


1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog []
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,868
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I'm a little late to the party, but I have used Evaporust. I wouldn't consider using it for a floor pan, because it needs to be completely wetted for quite a while (they recommend using paper towels). Even then it's hard to keep it wetted. AND it needs to be rinsed off. It leaves a black residue that isn't real well attached to the base metal, so it has to be rinsed/scrubbed off.
But for small parts, it works very well IMO. If you can completely submerge the parts, that's a good application for Evaporust. Then what I do is rinse and scrub them with a hand-held wire brush.
But for a floor pan, a wire wheel is the ticket, followed by a rust converting primer and topcoat.

Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos []
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 591
Another vote for Evapo-Rust. When I got around to installing the new windshield frame for my '37 Chevy pickup, the frame had acquired surface rust, including inside the glass and wetherstrip channels. The Evap-Rust gave me clean metal again after a two-hour submersion.




Lately, I've used it to derust a Buick nailhead water-jacket. They also offer a gel version of the product now to address the problem Kevin mentioned.

Last edited by LAROKE; Fri Aug 06 2021 10:07 AM.

Larry Kephart
1937 Chevy Utility Express (Deerslayer)
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
2017 Cadillac ATS-V (Elvira)
Boca Raton, Florida
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,868
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I've tried the gel version of Evaporust and would give it a 1 out of 5 rating. The first bit I got was too thick to even squeeze out of the bottle, and they sent me a new one, which I still wasn't impressed with. It might work OK for getting flash rust off, but for the flakes and more heavily rusted areas you'd find on a floor under the mat, a wire wheel is the ticket, NOT Evaporust. It has it's uses, but .....

Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos []
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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