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#1419130 Mon Aug 02 2021 12:54 PM
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 10
5
53again Offline OP
'Bolter
Hello all,
Are the rivets holding drums to hub on front of 53 3100 nessary ? if so where can i find replacements ? I need to change out to new drums seems like it would be easy and faster to service brakes if i didnt need to pull hub. Thanks Aaron

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,977
R
'Bolter
It's not really necessary to replace the rivets. The hub will center the drum just like the rears. Just grind off the heads and punch them out.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 10
5
53again Offline OP
'Bolter
Thanks Fred, kinda what i was thinking, just wanted to get input from others, Aaron

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
If you want to attach the drums to the hubs to keep them from slipping off during a tire change, just tap the rivet holes with a thread, and use a flathead machine screw countersunk even with the surface of the drum to hold it on. Some rear drums are attached to the hubs that way.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
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Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

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Joined: May 2017
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5
53again Offline OP
'Bolter
Sounds like a good idea, thanks Jerry

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,518
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
If you want to attach the drums to the hubs to keep them from slipping off during a tire change, just tap the rivet holes with a thread, and use a flathead machine screw countersunk even with the surface of the drum to hold it on.
If you do it this way, make sure you use anti-seize compound on the threads. The brake drums see the harshest environment which will rust those screws in solid. I would also use a higher grade torx head so it would have some beef when trying to remove them. You may want to use stainless.

Whatever you do, don’t use a slotted flathead machine screw. That will decrease you chance of removal.

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Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
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‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 159
T
'Bolter
Here's a chart, you might be able to find actual rivets on Ebay.

When using a rivet you can peen them.

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...er/33756/filename/brake-rivets-chart.jpg[/img]

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Working around the hub when trying to do a front brake job is going to be incredibly frustrating. The wheel bearings are going to need to be repacked periodically, so doing that in conjunction with a brake job (which requires removing the hubs) makes sense to me. Since the current drums have been on there close to 70 years, how often do you plan on having to change them? Chances are the screws won't have to be removed again in your lifetime!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,518
P
AD Addict
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
Since the current drums have been on there close to 70 years, how often do you plan on having to change them? Chances are the screws won't have to be removed again in your lifetime!
Jerry
Jerry, as always, you make a very good point. Still, it would’t hurt to add a little anti-seeze, just in case!


Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
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‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
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