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Jamboree 2022
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Lebanon TN

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Originally Posted by TradToolWorks
If for nothing else everyone should have a small oxy-acet kit to use with a rosebud to heat things up. I have brazed cast iron using brass with oxy-acet and have gotten better results than trying to weld it.

Add a cutting torch to the kit and it provides a lot of time saving in cutting metal and/or cutting old brackets off, stuff like that. Seems you have some time on oxy-acet, so not sure why you're so dismissive about it.

I agree with you TradToolWorks, that an OA setup is a necessary tool for working on our old trucks. I have gas welded allot in my career as a machinist, so I’m not being dismissive, but more of a realists as to the capabilities of a new gas welder. Working on a hard to find rear door on a burb (or panel), I wouldn’t want to tell a fellow ‘bolter to gas weld it only to find out the process made it worse. As I said, I don’t know the OP’s capabilities. If he spends enough time to learn the process, then I say go for it.

My recommendation to braze was due to the fact that the OP is fairly new to welding, and it does work really well. Back in the early 70’s, replacement panels were flanged, pop riveted on, then brazed in most “production” shops. Note that I said “production” shops, meaning shops that did mostly insurance repairs, as that was where your bread and butter was. That process helped limit the heat introduced into the panel to minimize warpage and was an accepted practice in the industry. Most shops back then only used OA setups. TIG and MIG were in their infancies and expensive.

HOWEVER, having said all that, today, TIG would be the best choice. I don’t own a TIG setup so I would MIG it.


1952 Chevrolet 3100
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I pretty much agree with everything you said, so not disagreeing with you. I will add that I couldn't agree more about welding on some old 'burb panels, welding is an acquired skill. Mig would actually be a good choice, and these days from what I have seen in body work, mig is the most common, using the tack technique. I do have a tig setup, and it's my favorite process of any of the welding, but it's also the most difficult. Panel work is not as difficult with tig as it's typically doing the tack technique.

On my '46 there's a tig weld on what appears to be a fender tear, about 4" in length, it looks like the fender was sewed closed, I kinda like it, it's like a battle scar.

Funny thing about my truck, it has it's own patina. Even thought it's slathered with Rustoleum applied with a brush, it has a patina of it's own. No saying my truck ain't original, it's actually more original than most of the fully restored trucks, IMO.

Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 699
This is a problem that many of us older guys have had to deal with. Along with Jon G and the others I agree. My method is to buy some of the plumbers foam or something like it. Grease down the area to be braised or welded and spray the foam on. Let it dry for an Hour then carefully remove. Make an exact copy of it out of 2 x 2 or 2 by. The wood working part can be the most difficult part but, you can get it with patience. Clamp the wooden forms in the backside and keep hot water on hand then start brazing which is more forgiving than welding. I normally use clothes hanger material but old hanger material is getting difficult to find. Don't worry about the globs and runs, after a few minutes you WILL get the hang of it. Brass is easier to work with and you have more control over hot spots. Wish I could be there to show you. I once converted a 55 Chevy 150 body by cutting off 57 Chevy fins so that I could race on the dirt roundy rounder tracks and look like my 55 was a 57. That is where my brother and Dad showed me to race with the always cheating pro's. I learned well. Doc

Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
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