The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Remember old days

Remember
The old Bulletin Board?

click to enter

The old Bulletin Board has been removed from the server. And with recent "spring" cleaning, we are removing links back to it. The BB is still out in cyber space (to some extent) thanks to
The Wayback Machine.
Stovebolt Site Search
'
Oh Lord, I just gotta find it....

A pdf guide to help you search the Site


Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
11 members (FinnBolt, 3B, 6571, Curt B., DougH6100, 1 invisible), 89 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums59
Topics128,095
Posts1,037,203
Members45,931
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3
#1418078 Sun Jul 25 2021 03:06 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
I've posted in the General forum and the Engine forum about the truck I just got delivered. I'm still going through it to see what I've got and trying to decide which way I want to go with the build. I was originally going to do a daily driver restoration and keep it as original as possible. I knew the rear end had been switched but so far I can't figure out with what. I've attached some photos of what's under the truck and could use some help identifying it and suggestions for replacing it.

At some point someone put a 5 lug unit in. It also appears to have heavy duty springs since the original, from what I've seen had 7 leaves and this one has 10. It's also an open drive unit. They also removed the emergency brake lines and handle from the cab. The rear shocks have also been disconnected for some reason. I've attached some photos that I've taken so far.

I've located a complete '40 drive line with a complete closed drive shaft and rear end with the wheels and emergency brake lines. There's no handle so I'd still have to locate that. I've also found a '51 complete drive line, which is much closer to where I live. Question #1 is the '51 and '40 drive line basically the same? Will the '51 fit the '40 truck? #2 would I be better off just switching it out for something else, Camaro, Nova, Ford 9" etc.? I plan on just using the truck to drive back and forth to Home Depot and maybe take it to a few car shows when it's done. I doubt it will ever see a freeway.

Joe

Attached Images
rear spring 2.jpg (36.65 KB, 222 downloads)
rear shock.jpg (60.43 KB, 221 downloads)
rear end.jpg (31.55 KB, 219 downloads)
JoeR #1418080 Sun Jul 25 2021 03:48 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
Here are some additional photos from under the truck. The last one shows the position of the wheel in relation to the fender.

Attached Images
rear end 3.jpg (48.89 KB, 214 downloads)
rear end 4.jpg (45.3 KB, 215 downloads)
rear wheel position.jpg (51.19 KB, 214 downloads)
JoeR #1418103 Sun Jul 25 2021 06:14 PM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 159
T
'Bolter
I am not sure this would work Joe, but I have heard that if you flip the leaf springs around your tire may be centered in the wheel well.

This problem has to do with swapping different year axles on trucks and passenger cars alike. I may need to do that when I swap the '55 Series 2 rear axle on my '46.

This is a passenger car, but you'll get the idea, same hold true for trucks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdJn4P3t25Y

JoeR #1418114 Sun Jul 25 2021 07:52 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
Hey T,

I'll have to check the measurements between the axle and the mounting positions. If it does move the axle back I'll have to see how far out it pulls the drive shaft from the trans. But it's worth a shot.

Thanks,
Joe

JoeR #1418187 Mon Jul 26 2021 04:55 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 159
T
'Bolter
Originally Posted by JoeR
I'll have to check the measurements between the axle and the mounting positions. If it does move the axle back I'll have to see how far out it pulls the drive shaft from the trans. But it's worth a shot.
I've seen this fix the same problem on trucks also. I'm pretty certain if it doesn't help 100%, it will help most of it. The ones I've seen get really close to center in most cases. I think it is worth measuring and/or trying if it looks right.

JoeR #1418385 Tue Jul 27 2021 07:24 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
Finally got out to measure the spring/axle distances. From the front spring shackle to the center of the axle is 27", from the rear it's 25" so reversing it would only bring it closer to the front of the rear fender. Like I said, I don't know what year (or for that matter make) the rear end is but I know the fenders are wrong. As I said in some posts in other sections I'm going to get it in the garage take all the body off and decide what to do. I'm leaning toward a 283/327 swap with a Mustang II front and some 4 link rear. Maybe a T5 and some rear end with a 3.73 or lower final drive. I've read here somewhere that Nova or Camaro rear ends will work with the '40 frame.

Joe

JoeR #1418418 Wed Jul 28 2021 12:03 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 159
T
'Bolter
Originally Posted by JoeR
I'm leaning toward a 283/327 swap

If I was going to put a V8 in mine it would be a 327, best SBC and first fuel injected engine to be built. The 283 is it's little brother, probably gets better gas mileage, but less power. But I'm keeping the 235 that was put into it before I got it.

Originally Posted by JoeR
I've read here somewhere that Nova or Camaro rear ends will work with the '40 frame.

Your frame should be like mine, I have a '46, which was the same as the '41, and I'm pretty sure there isn't much different on yours sans the grill and light differences.

I found a '55 Series 2 rear axle and using it so I can reuse my wheels. If you plan on getting new wheels, those camero and nova rears typically have 5 lug 4.75" diam pattern on them.

S10 will work well in your truck also, most likely the 2WD, the 4WD is about 4" wider and people use those for the AD trucks, but those truck are also 4" wide fender to fender. Another I've seen both rear axles and front clips is from a corvette. And if you get lucky on one of those it will have disc brakes, probably not as useful on the rears, but couldn't hurt if you plan to get with disc brakes on the front as well. wink

JoeR #1418498 Wed Jul 28 2021 01:55 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
Hi T,

I'm going to do a compression check on the 235 as soon as I get time and see what readings I get. My original thought was to keep it as original as I could, but given that the drive line has already been replaced I was thinking the V8 swap might not be a bad idea. It looks like some work has been done to the 235. I see new fittings on some of the lines, the carb has obviously been rebuilt so I'm still trying to see what my options are. There are a few 327s I've found on Craigslist that look promising.

I'm definitely going to be taking it all apart, including removing the cab, since I will have to replace the floor under the gas tank/seat riser. The bed is going to be replaced too. That will allow me to box the frame which will give me the option for more power.

It's already got the 5 lug wheels on the back and 6 lug original wheels on the front. I was thinking about going with a 5 lug set up so I could use Cragers or American Racing 5 spoke wheels. Something about those that I just like the look of. So I guess once I get the body off I'll be able to see exactly what the prior owner put in the rear. It looks like a 10 bolt but that about all I've figured out so far. I have no idea about the year, ratio or if it's a posi or not. The trans is a 4 speed but I'm not sure what kind yet. The Muncie they used in '53 should have a closed drive line, but this one is open. I guess it's one of those things I'm going to have to wait until I get all the panels off to see what it is. I've attached a photo of the top of it trans.

I was thinking about doing a Build Post in that section and posting photos as I progress.

Joe

Attached Images
transmission.jpg (67.71 KB, 116 downloads)
JoeR #1418504 Wed Jul 28 2021 03:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 699
D
'Bolter
JoeR, your plans sound very interesting. What is the year and model? There are many times that I wish I would have done what you are planning regarding an older mixed up truck. The 327 really got my attention (my all time favorite), Crager chromes, oh my gosh had several sets on various rods. You need to contact some of the bolters about your other questions but. it would definitely be advantageous to put a 5 lug on the back. 4 Cragers are max. Good luck and go for it. I'm the odd man out of the group because I have always had great luck with 9 bolt Ford rear ends. As for the tranny mine is out of a 1940 3/4 ton Chevy truck, great trans. for the farm or an all stock restoration the number on mine is K96 L. There are many links on Stovebolt to match up what you have. Good luck and have fun. I have probably saved ten of thousands of dollars on shrinks by just working on my old cars and trucks. Hey I may be crazy but I sure get along fine with everyone on this site. Doc


Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
JoeR #1418505 Wed Jul 28 2021 03:10 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
Got the floor board off and took these photos of the transmission. I'm still not sure what I'm looking at.

Attached Images
transmission 2.jpg (57.26 KB, 102 downloads)
transmission 3.jpg (46.67 KB, 102 downloads)
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5