I received the complete steel/rubber rear motor mounts & the insert steel/rubber front motor mount from Carters (Independence, M0).
Cleaned up six sets of bolts, washers & nuts to attach motor mounts to the frame, cross member & the engine (see pic of the nastiness of two (2) of the shorter bolts before clean-up).
I mounted the engine mounts front & rear (see pics).
Underneath the '52 'Burb's Carryall floor at the driver seat position is a compartment without a closed end toward the passenger side. Why there wasn't on mine I don't know. As such using fiberglass cloth, fiberglass jelly, & fiberglass hardner, I am closing that end up. You will see in the pics what I mean regarding an open end of that storage tool compartment. I will come back & use more fiberglass in due time because the fiberglass really wants to fall down since your working it up side down.
A second coat of fiberglass jelly mixed with hardner has been applied on the side of the rool compartment underneath the driver's seat floor (see pic). It will need a third coat too. Why? Because it is being applied upside down you can only layer the fiberglass for the weight of the material that will stay in place versus dripping down which it still does somewhat. I have started to clean-up the foot starter mechanism, as you can see how dirty it is in the pic.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
On my '51 3100, the underseat floor was rusted away on one end. I needed to replace that, so hammered out a piece of steel to match the shape of the depression (see pic.) I think I would have welded in a piece of steel rather than use fiberglass to close up that hole, but fiberglass works too. Just really messy.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Before & after pics resulting from cleaning up the foot starter mechanism using degreaser, brake fluid, wire wheel on a drill, belt & palm sanders. And plenty of elbow grease. It is ready to mount after cleaning up some fastners.
Thanks Kevin for looking in on how I'm solving the issue of an open end on the tool compartment underneath the driver's seat floor. I chose to use fiberglass cloth, fiberglass jelly with hardner, and it will be followed with spray on bed liner. Why? It's messy but it's less hazardous using a respirator & standard safety glasses than welding sheet metal which requires both special eye & special 🫁 personal protective equipment.
The 3rd application of fiberglass jelly mixed with hardner underneath the driver seat tool compartment passenger side edge to enclose it is complete (see pic). I will follow-up once dried for several days with light sanding to remove any hanging drips, apply some paint and some bed liner type material. It should be good to go and I will not lose any tools or what not as I drive down country roads.
Thanks for the compliment John. Yeah, I and others are thrilled your back in the game with that restoration of that capital truck. I seem to specialize in clean-up lately.
Yesterday, my daughter & I traveled to southwest VA some 185 miles, stayed overnight, & then met with a fellow Old Dominion Stovebolt Society (ODSS) member Cosmo to purchase an engine from him (see pic). We then made the return trip back to northeast MD, having hauled the approximately 800 lb '56 6 cylinder Chevrolet 235 cu inch engine flawlessly in the 8ft bed of my 2000 Chevrolet dually 1 ton crew cab pick-up. The engine is to be dropped into the '52 'Burb Carryall using the existing 3 speed transmission with the torque tube setup. I thank ODSS' el president Cosmo for agreeing to sell the motor to me, as we discussed some 11 years ago at Winchester ODSS meet-up & recently at Wrenchfest 2023. I also thank my daughter Lynn for taking the trip & lending a hand with the powerplant transfer between ODSS members.
