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Re: 1940 size question
JoeR #1417960 Sat Jul 24 2021 12:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,394
J
'Bolter
All the old trucks have rear fenders and tires that don't line up. No one knows why GM did this, but 99% have the tires to far forward. The fix is to drill a new locating hole in the axle mounts and slide the drivetrain backwards an inch or little more. Your fenders are likely original or at least mounted in the original holes.

Re: 1940 size question
JoeR #1417963 Sat Jul 24 2021 12:41 PM
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 111
D
'Bolter
JoeR,
I agree with Rich’sToys to leave the steel if it’s a daily driver, but wood sure is pretty. My ‘57 3200 has steel from previous owner so I purchased a 1/2” rubber mat to quite it down and protect the paint if I ever get that done.


1957 Chevy 3200
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated
Re: 1940 size question
Rich'sToys #1417977 Sat Jul 24 2021 03:05 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 224
J
JoeR Offline OP
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Rich'sToys
JoeR,
With all due respect, unless you're a stickler for originality, I would leave the steel bottom in the bed. Obviously it was put there because the original wood was shot. Why undo something that was definitely an improvement?
Just my thoughts--it's your truck, not mine.

Hi Rich,

The steel bed wasn't put in very well, there are gaps and it just look ugly to me. It's all got to come out to replace some other parts so my plan was to go with the entire bed kit from Mar K. My thought was that since I'd be buying everything, the bed, tailgate, wood and mounting hardware from one source it would fit together better rather than trying to find the parts I need from separate manufacturers. Right now I'm putting together a list of things that the truck needs and what all the costs will be. I'm still trying to decide if I want to go with just making it a driver, restoration or doing a full engine swap. A lot is going to depend on finances. As always.

Joe

Re: 1940 size question
JoeR #1417979 Sat Jul 24 2021 03:28 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,202
Grease Monkey, Moderator General Truck Talk & Greasy Spoon
Just a side note about Mar-K. The former owner is an active member here, 59fleet, and has been really good about answering bed related questions. Even though the company changed owners a few years ago they still strive to put out a good quality product and their customer service is great.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily”
‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”



"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
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Re: 1940 size question
JoeR #1418002 Sat Jul 24 2021 07:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,170
J
'Bolter
Re. the steel bed, I believe GMCs used a steel bed NO? And good luck at DMV, I try to deal with AAA they can handle some transfer/registration issues, few DMV employees are up to speed with old vehicles.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy [stovebolt.com]
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed [stovebolt.com]
Re: 1940 size question
JoeR #1418031 Sun Jul 25 2021 02:04 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,781
R
'Bolter
Originally Posted by JoeR
Hi Rich,

The steel bed wasn't put in very well, there are gaps and it just look ugly to me. It's all got to come out to replace some other parts so my plan was to go with the entire bed kit from Mar K. My thought was that since I'd be buying everything, the bed, tailgate, wood and mounting hardware from one source it would fit together better rather than trying to find the parts I need from separate manufacturers. Right now I'm putting together a list of things that the truck needs and what all the costs will be. I'm still trying to decide if I want to go with just making it a driver, restoration or doing a full engine swap. A lot is going to depend on finances. As always.

Joe

That makes sense. You know your own situation, and I don't. Sounds like you have a good plan. Keep us posted.


Rich

'47 Loadmaster [stovebolt.com]

1947 Chev. Loadmaster

1959 Chev. Viking 40

Genie: "I am the genie from a magic lamp and I have the power to grant you three wishes."
Me: "I want to be rich."
Genie: "OK, Rich, what's your second wish?"








Re: 1940 size question
JoeR #1418038 Sun Jul 25 2021 03:18 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 159
T
'Bolter
Originally Posted by JoeR
Not sure why anyone would shorten a short bed but I guess, as they say, to each his (or her) own. Any thoughts on the 12 bolt, 3.73, 6 lug rear end for this truck? I've also found an online place that has Artillery wheels but I'm thinking they may have to wait until I get the basics done first. I can throw a pair of steel wheels on there for now. Joe

Seems to be common with Hot Rodders, they will often swap the chassis with a car chassis. The trucks I've seen the beds shortened on (yes, 1/2 tons) had pretty souped up engines. Here's an example of such a '46.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ta3CJ5dAs7Q

I'm looking for a simpler life, my 235 is all I need, I just need the driveline spiced up a bit. My truck is painted with Rustoleum, best I can tell...with a brush.

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