Installed both front fender/rad support braces on GF's 53 3100. Just some of the missing parts PO left off truck. Made up shopping list for my next trip to Chev's of the 40's.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Got the horn reassembled today after cleaning and painting. Decided to test it and....
HONK!!
Kevin First car '29 Ford Special Coupe #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] Busting rust since the mid-60's
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Nice! I wish we still had a plater up here. The cost of shipping stuff back and forth to the lower 48 makes getting things plated prohibitively expensive.
Kevin First car '29 Ford Special Coupe #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] Busting rust since the mid-60's
Nice! I wish we still had a plater up here. The cost of shipping stuff back and forth to the lower 48 makes getting things plated prohibitively expensive.
You should look into Powder Coated Chrome...hard to tell it from the real deal.
I had to replace a 5 year old power steering pump...the '56 steers great again!
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Mike B
You should look into Powder Coated Chrome...hard to tell it from the real deal.
I've thought about that. Also considering chrome vinyl wrap for the bumpers (the only thing that needs chrome on my truck).
Kevin First car '29 Ford Special Coupe #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] Busting rust since the mid-60's
Applied primer filler to driver side rear barn door of the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban (in the background). Next up fixing hinge lock mechanism, interior paint & then Windser Blue exterior paint. Enjoy!
I used the Cu-Ni line and it does work easy. I just finished installing my CPP adapter bracket and dual circuit master. My 49 3600 had a single circuit and when you pushed the pedal down it would travel 3/4 of the way to the floor and then go hard. Stopping was iffy at best. I got the dual circuit in and got the system bled. The pedal does exactly the same travel with the same lack of stopping power. So I started from scratch and bled it all again really watching for air bubbles. Again exactly the same results.
The master has about 32nds inch gap between the push rod and master. The brakes are adjusted a little tighter than I like but I was trying to cut down pedal travel. I even sanded the newish shoes and cleaned any evidence of dirt/oil in the drums. Same result.
I'm guessing my best option (read most expensive) is to install discs front and rear. I'm really disappointed because I've had the truck 6 weeks and the first big show is tomorrow.
Grease Monkey, Moderator General Truck Talk & Greasy Spoon
Unimogr2, do a post in the Driveline Forum and see if anyone can help you out. I suspect there will be some suggestions.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
