Chevrolet uses tread width as Brad described in their sales literature to tell a buyer how wide the track is. In the real world of trying to ID axles in a junk yard we use WMS to WMS which is a lot more accurate when trying to retrofit it into something it never came in.
Like I said, I'm just going to wait until the truck is in my garage and see how the rear end they put in it fits, pull the wheels off and measure the WMS distance. I'm going to pick up the '40 rear fenders later today. The cost to ship it has really gone up with the cost of diesel fuel.
Well I've finally found a shipper who doesn't want my left lung to move the truck. I was a little hesitant because of what I've read about vehicle transport brokers raising prices after they've got your vehicle on the truck, but these guys checked out.
The seller sent me a copy of his current registration and it does show the truck as a '39 which, based on my research, it clearly does not appear to be. I guess it's just another one of those things I'll have to wait and see when it gets here.
In a previous post, I mentioned the fender lamps as being a 1940 indicator. I jus took another look and see that they are aftermarket lights. The grille could have been changed sometime and replaced with one from a 1940. The instrument panel will tell the tale, they are very different. 1939 1/2 ton is series JC, 1940 1/2 ton is KC. These letters will be found on the I.D. plate. For your sake, I hope it is a '40. '39 fenders are impossible to find.
In a previous post, I mentioned the fender lamps as being a 1940 indicator. I jus took another look and see that they are aftermarket lights. The grille could have been changed sometime and replaced with one from a 1940. The instrument panel will tell the tale, they are very different. 1939 1/2 ton is series JC, 1940 1/2 ton is KC. These letters will be found on the I.D. plate. For your sake, I hope it is a '40. '39 fenders are impossible to find.
Mike
Hi Mike,
My truck dash is definitely a '40 with the rectangular instrument panel. I'm wondering if the aftermarket part of the lights are the amber lens. Still waiting for it to get here to check out the numbers.
Well the truck just got delivered. The VIN plate is right where it's supposed to be and it's definitely a 1940, 21KC10 2272. The rear end/drive shaft were replaced with an open drive line. At this point I'm not sure what kind, but it appears a little short since the front of the rear tires seem too close to the fenders. Although this could be because the rear fenders are off a '47 or later truck. Someone put it a solid steel floor in the bed so that's going to have to come out. I'll also be in the market for new running boards and front fenders. I've already located correct rear fenders and Mar K has the entire bed and bed wood kit. The original seat frame is in the bed so I'm going to have to get an upholstery kit to do that. The engine runs strong but I'm not sure what transmission is in it. I'll take some photos and post them when I get some time. It does start right up and runs well. Looks like there might be a little oil leak from the pan but I'll have to get under it tonight and see what's there.
Our old trucks were just work horses and parts from several years could be bolt on or made to fit with a little work. My 46 for example was one of these, like the great old song by Johnny Cash one piece at a time. Took me a while to discover my truck had 41 fenders on pass side 46 on the other etc etc. Dad cut off the back half of a 1 ton panel to make a flat bed during WWII! Best of luck Jim
Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; Fri Jul 23 2021 08:29 PM.
Here are some photos of the underside and the trans. It's an open drive line, but it looks like they cut off the connectors from the old shocks and just bolted on the new springs and rear end. It must have come with a shorter drive shaft which is why the wheels are too close to the fenders.
At this point I'm not sure if I want to strip the whole thing down and do a big V-8 conversion with a Mustang II front end and 4 link rear or just go with the '40 closed drive rear that I've found and stay with the 216 that seems to be running fine. It looks like I can but an all new bed, tailgate and wood bed floor for somewhere in the area of $2500 with all the mounting hardware. Decisions, decisions. I'm going to DMV on Monday to register it and drive it for a little while and see what I think (that means see what Mama thinks) LOL.
JoeR, With all due respect, unless you're a stickler for originality, I would leave the steel bottom in the bed. Obviously it was put there because the original wood was shot. Why undo something that was definitely an improvement? Just my thoughts--it's your truck, not mine.
Genie: "I am the genie from a magic lamp and I have the power to grant you three wishes." Me: "I want to be rich." Genie: "OK, Rich, what's your second wish?"
