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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 38
B
'Bolter
Bright and early this morning, my truck started with no problem. Later in the day, I go to start it... It makes the initial starting sound, but never cranks the engine. Try again later, and no sound at all! The negative (battery post and battery terminal) had ZERO acid buildup. The positive (battery post and terminal) had some acid buildup, so cleaned them up- with no change. Does this mean it's time for a starter rebuild/replacement?

I was reading some posts, that some starters have brushes... Is this true? Does mine? I get why generators do, but starters... Really?!

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,380
B
Curmudgeon
You need the special part that Hotrod (Jerry) developed. A plastic Coke cap. It fits over the round button (actuator) at the starter. If you linkage has too much slop, this gets you by until you have time to fix it.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 38
B
'Bolter
Buoymaker- Will try the Coke cap! But how do I fix the linkage-slop problem, otherwise?

Last edited by Baronobeefdip; Tue Jul 20 2021 02:55 AM.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,744
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Decades of starts will wear all the pivot points where the linkage moves. You'll need to disassemble things and look for wear grooves, oblong holes, etc. Weld, fabricate bushings, or do whatever it takes to get the linkage moving everything like it did back in the dark ages.

It's also possible that there's a "dead spot" on the starter armature that creates an open circuit when it stops in the wrong place, or worn brushes that aren't seating properly on the armature. Try a few gentle taps with a medium-sized ball peen hammer to the back end of the starter housing and try the pedal again.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,380
B
Curmudgeon
I was having fun but seriously wear is a lot of what happens. We first need to isolate if it's the linkage or the starter itself.
Put the truck in neutral, apply parking brakes, ignition switch "on" then push down the round starter actuator with something like a screwdriver.
Report back on what happens.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,744
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
There are plenty of "brushless" electric motors, but they're not used for starting engines, and most of them run on AC current. I serviced them for a lot of years in industrial applications, up to 100 HP or more.
jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,628
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
There are DC brushless motors as well. I have a battery operated impact driver that's brushless. But things like that didn't exist in the '50's, and definitely not for starter motors.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
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Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 38
B
'Bolter
Hotrod Lincoln- I'll check that out. I did tap it with a hammer, but at the front, not the back... No change. I'll try the back this time.

Bartamos- How would I automatically know that the starter has brushes? As far as I knew, all it did (when pushing the floor pedal) was push the pinion shaft to the flywheel, and with supplied electricity- start the motor. Like I said, brushes in the generator make sense, because it's recharging the battery.

Buoymaker- "Wear is a lot of what happens" makes sense. I did try pushing the actuator... I both heard and felt buzzing.

I forgot to mention in my OP, but I measured the voltage in the battery after said discovery. It was just barely above 5 volts. I don't know if that'll change much, but I'm going to charge the battery and try again.

Last edited by Baronobeefdip; Wed Jul 21 2021 03:41 AM.
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 619
S
'Bolter
A fully charged battery will make the difference in 6 volt.
Also double check all of your Grounds.
Keep us posted.
Todd

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,744
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Open circuit (no load) voltage of a fully charged 6V battery should be around 6.3 volts, 2.1V per cell. Try monitoring the voltage at the battery posts while someone else pushes the starter pedal. If it drops below about 4.5 volts under load, you've either got a discharged battery or one that's got an open circuit inside one of the cells and must be replaced. A good 6V battery should be able to crank the engine at normal starting speed for at least 15 seconds without the terminal voltage dropping below 4.5.
Good luck!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
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