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#1416554 Sat Jul 10 2021 08:19 PM
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 71
S
'Bolter
I rebuilt my door hinges using parts from the freebies section. The right door bolts up and aligns perfectly. The left upper hinge however doesn't seem to fit correctly, the hinge inner bolt hole is about 1/4" inboard of where the hinge pocket hole is and I can't get the bolt in. The 3 outer bolts that attach to the pillar fit fine. I know when I removed the old hinge that the hinge body aligned correctly, and I'm assuming that I used a different upper hinge body and possibly a different arm when rebuilding. I can't remember for the life of me if the door aligned properly before I removed it (I REALLY need to start taking pictures). Would this cause the upper part of the door to have zero clearance and hit the door opening? I can't adjust the upper hinge outward at all. The lower part of the door aligns nicely.

Can these hinges warp that much or do I have a warped door or possibly wrong hinge body?


Mason

1947 Chevy 3100
-57 Chevy 235
-93 S10 T5 Transmission
-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,451
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I'm not understanding exactly which bolt you're referring to that doesn't fit. Does the hinge bolt to the door without it being bolted to the pillar?
Can you post pictures of the issue?

The hinge bodies should have the same bolt pattern and interchange without issue, but the arm may have been bent at some point to align the door.

Other than that, I've got nothing to help you. Maybe one of the guys that's messed with doors a lot can help you out.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 71
S
'Bolter
The first two pics show the inner bolt and how far out of line it is with the hole in the hinge pillar pocket. All of the holes line up well other than this one. I thought all the hinge bodies should be the same as well, but this one just seems to be a bit off. I don't know what to do next, try to find another upper hinge or find a new door. The 3rd pic shows a decent gap between the door and the cab upper rear which is what I want, the 4th pic showing the non-existent gap between the door and cab at the top.

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Mason

1947 Chevy 3100
-57 Chevy 235
-93 S10 T5 Transmission
-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,451
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
That's interesting. My truck (a '51) has no bolt back inside the hinge pockets, and the hole in the pocket has no provision for a cage nut. Maybe there was one on earlier trucks, but I can't verify that.
I don't think I'd worry about installing a bolt there if you can align the door with normal means using just the 3 bolts on the face of the hinge. The door pillar takes care of vertical alignment (with the holes in the face plate (and the one back inside the hinge body) oval shaped vertically.

Line up the moulding on the door vertically. It looks like you need to move the front of the door upward, based on your fourth picture. If you can't get enough movement horizontally at the upper hinge, you may have to bend the hinge arm that extends into the door.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,492
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Originally Posted by klhansen
That's interesting. My truck (a '51) has no bolt back inside the hinge pockets, and the hole in the pocket has no provision for a cage nut. Maybe there was one on earlier trucks, but I can't verify that.

I just started alignment of my doors also and noticed that my ‘52 is also missing the back bolts on the hinge pockets. I remember reading on this forum about not forgetting to loosen those bolts. I thought one of the past owners, snapped off the cage nuts at one time and I would have to reinstall them sometime in the future. Seeing proof that the ‘47 has the cage nuts and mine and Kevin’s do not, I question whether or not my ‘52 should also have them. I leaning on the side that they should be there.

We need some of the seasoned ‘bolters to chime in to set the record straight!


Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
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Posts: 71
S
'Bolter
I guess I just needed a couple hours to step away from the alignment issue...

Kevin, I took your advice and moved the door upwards and out at the top to get the front moved up. While doing that, I noticed that when I put pressure on the door to open it, the inner hinge body hole would line up with the pocket nut thingy. So, got a bolt in there too! Still had the problem of the door not shutting very well and found that I never tightened the lower hinge back bolt so the hinge arm was hitting it and causing the whole door to warp when closing.

Phil, I took the back bolts out on the passenger side to see if it made a difference and it doesn't make an alignment difference. I noticed a bit of flex at the pillar though and the door feels *lumpy*? when it opens and closes (don't know how else to explain it). The inner hinge bolts installed seem to stiffen things up a bit. Also, there is a noticeable gap between the pillar pocket and the back of the hinge body so I didn't give her the beans when tightening them. I think they are just there to reduce flex/twisting maybe kind of? I would assume that the later models have a bit more support at the pillar so possibly they aren't necessary.

Thanks for the help guys, the doors are now aligned and closing great! Now on to more body work which I despise.


Mason

1947 Chevy 3100
-57 Chevy 235
-93 S10 T5 Transmission
-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,451
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Mason, Glad you got it worked out. The "lumpy" feel may be that the striker needs adjusting or it's just the latch engaging. I still have to get my doors fitted. Pretty close to doing that, but still need to install bushings in the hinges.
Not sure how the back bolts would stiffen things up, since the metal they screw into is just spot welded to the pillar at the door hinge pocket. Maybe GM realized they didn't help much and left them out on later models to save a few cents on bolts.
It would be interesting to know when that might have happened. We have bolts in '47 and no bolts in '51 and '52. Anybody else care to weigh in?

Phil, there was no evidence that there were any cage nuts on my truck. I had access to see in there when I replaced cowl panels.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,546
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Originally Posted by klhansen
Phil, there was no evidence that there were any cage nuts on my truck. I had access to see in there when I replaced cowl panels.

Same on my '51. I figured it was for fine tuning the hinge. With bolts snug, you can use a drift in there to move the hinge around before you tighten them.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,103
5
'Bolter
I don't know how one would ever be able to adjust the inboard/outboard position of the door if that deep bolt were in place.
I have never seen a bolt in that hole in any of the several trucks which I have taken apart.

Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 71
S
'Bolter
Originally Posted by 52Carl
I don't know how one would ever be able to adjust the inboard/outboard position of the door if that deep bolt were in place.
I have never seen a bolt in that hole in any of the several trucks which I have taken apart.

I think it's just a 47-48 thing. The body service manual mentions loosening the 4 cap screws for adjustment and you can just make out a bolt inside the pocket...197-1948 Servicing Chevrolet Truck Cabs [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]


Mason

1947 Chevy 3100
-57 Chevy 235
-93 S10 T5 Transmission
-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
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