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We are still asking:
What did you
get done on
your Bolt today
????


The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt
this weekend?"

After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.


Now with pictures
and No BOTS.


So ...


What did you get done on your Bolt today????


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Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1422472 Tue Aug 31 2021 04:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 261
G
'Bolter
Hi Everybody,

Got some garage time today and made some good progress. I decided to deal with the rear body mounting shackle while I had good access. This required a little rearrangement of the cab brace, but nothing too difficult. I had already been soaking the bolts with penetrating oil, so this morning, I tried to move them with a normal socket wrench. They seemed pretty stuck, so I went to the impact wrench. Easy peasy, off they came. Thankfully, the parts are very heavy duty, because they were pretty rusty! Separating the two halves of the shackle was equally easy with the impact wrench. Getting the old rubber bushings out wasn't as easy, but they did eventually come out. Sadly, when I got a look at the bolts that were in the rubber bushings it was clear that they had corroded significantly. So...they will get replaced. I will clean up the bracket portions of the assembly and likely replace the shackle portion of the assembly with the bolts and nuts. I'll clean them up first and see if they are salvageable, but I'm not holding my breath. Interestingly enough, when I took the shackle assembly off of the truck, two shims fell onto the ground. They were in good shape and I've saved them for reuse when installing the refurbished assembly back onto the truck.

That's all for now. As always, comments and/or suggestions are welcome.

Attached Files
20210831_093818.jpg (257.18 KB, 222 downloads)
20210831_105136.jpg (291.16 KB, 222 downloads)

Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog [grayghost53.blogspot.com]
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1422478 Tue Aug 31 2021 05:22 PM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 298
W
'Bolter
Looks like you are making good progress. I am kind of in the same boat. I have a '65 C10 that needs a portion of the passenger floor pan, kick panel and rocker arm replaced. At this time I'm cutting out the rust.

I plan to purchase a MIG and learn how to use it just as you are doing. Therefore can you pls. elaborate on your welding setup? Did you already have a MIG? What brand/model are you using? You mentioned the new wire made a difference. What kind and diameter was the old wire and new?

Thank you


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Re: Restoring the basketcase
WarEagle1 #1422486 Tue Aug 31 2021 06:51 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 261
G
'Bolter
Kevin,

I'm using a cheapie flux core mig from Harbor Freight, that I bought many years ago...and never learned how to use. Initially, I was using the wire that came in the welder. I was making some progress in learning to weld with that welder and wire combo, but it was a bit slow. One of the most common "upgrades" that internet users said to make was switching out the wire for a better, name brand wire. I resisted doing it at first, but finally broke down and bought a reel of Lincoln wire. Actually, 2 reels.... The wire that came with the welder was 0.030, but the welder could also use 0.035 wire, so I bought that first. The welder flat out refused to feed that wire! I went through the setup and switched the feed wheel and tightened the pressure wheel (another internet hack) and nothing worked. So, I went and bought another reel, this time in 0.030. I switched the feed wheel back to the smaller diameter and got a very pleasant surprise! This wire was more conductive than the original wire and started the arc well above the metal! The original wire definitely had to touch to start the arc. The new wire seems to burn hotter, too.

From a technique perspective, I'm trying to "perfect" making a weld dot, versus laying down a continuous bead. The rationale for this is to avoid warpage of thin sheets. Procedurally, I will make a series of dots, moving from one end to the other and then filling in the space between them, trying to spread the heat evenly, while also taking brakes to avoid over heating. I've been buying sheets of 16 gauge weldable steel at my local home store and practicing on them. I found out very quickly that warpage is a real thing! It's been an interesting learning experience. Another thing that I learned is that an auto darkening helmet is way easier to use than a permanently dark one. I started with the permanently dark one and ultimately switched. I think it's safer, too, since I can get the electrode very close to where I want to weld without fear of accidentally striking an arc with my helmet not in place.

If I were just starting out, and was operating on the limited budget that I have now, I'd probably look at the newer Harbor Freight flux core mig that has adjustable power settings and has electrode negative dc capability. I may actually switch to that welder, time will tell. If I knew that I'd be working on more trucks at some point in the future, I might spring for a name brand welder. But for me personally, the HF equipment is functional and does the job that I need to get done. Of course, I'd also switch that wire....

I hope this helps, everything here is just my opinion. Others will likely disagree and may offer other opinions and/or suggestions. That is fine, too. Good luck in your learning! I've found it very rewarding when I make the weld dots correctly and the metal pieces are actually joined together.


Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog [grayghost53.blogspot.com]
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1422490 Tue Aug 31 2021 07:08 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,786
W
back yard wrench turner
I found this website very helpful when I started welding.
https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/mig-welding-videos.html


Wayne

When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!

1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
-30-Stovebolt Gallery
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1422541 Wed Sep 01 2021 01:39 AM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 298
W
'Bolter
Thank you for the info. From all the youtube videos I have watched and things I've read, it seems that an amateur like myself can do a passable job. I'm not trying to build a show truck. I think you are right to take your time and keep everything cool.

I'm doing all of my cutting with a an angle grinder. One thing I have quickly learned is that it takes some practice with it in order to not butcher up everything (including yourself). I'm trying to make precise cuts with it to make the welding job easier.

I look forward to reading more of your log. Thanks again.


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1422591 Wed Sep 01 2021 04:36 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 261
G
'Bolter
Hey Everyone,

A quick update today. I am able to salvage the shackle pieces! The bolts are shot, but the sides are so beefy that they'll clean up and still be plenty strong enough to use. I want to provide a big shoutout to Paul65 for providing the link for shoulder bolts in this thread. Mine arrived today and I did a quick test fit and it's perfect.

I did end up wasting a bunch of time trying to grind off the end of the bolt. I was going to use a punch to drive the bolt through the shackle. Turns out, I didn't need to do that. All I needed to do was to flip it over and drive it out from the threaded end.... Oh well, live and learn.

I did some initial rust removal, too. That's how I know that the shackle parts are salvageable. The rains from the remnants of Ida arrived while I was outside working, so no painting today. Once the rains pass by, I'll finish up the rust removal, do the painting and reassemble the complete shackle assembly. I'll post pics them.

Once again, I get to stand on the shoulders of others and succeed! OBTW, in case you were looking for those shoulder bolts [mcmaster.com], here's the direct link. Thanks, Paul65!!


Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog [grayghost53.blogspot.com]
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1422943 Sat Sep 04 2021 06:21 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 261
G
'Bolter
As promised, here are the pics of the reassembled shackle. First two pics are before and the second two are after. I haven't installed it into the truck, yet, but hope to do so this long weekend. But first...time to grill up some beer can chicken! Happy Labor Day, everyone!

Update: I got the shackle installed (pic added), removed the rear bracing and the cab is sitting exactly where it should be. I'll call that a win and will now move onto the rear cab corners on the passenger side. Both inner and outer will need replacing.

Attached Files
20210831_093818.jpg (257.18 KB, 151 downloads)
20210831_105136.jpg (291.16 KB, 150 downloads)
20210904_091103.jpg (247.85 KB, 149 downloads)
20210904_093534.jpg (221.89 KB, 149 downloads)
20210905_103423.jpg (163.76 KB, 134 downloads)
Last edited by Gray_Ghost; Sun Sep 05 2021 06:06 PM. Reason: Added pic of installed shackle

Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog [grayghost53.blogspot.com]
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1423436 Thu Sep 09 2021 05:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 261
G
'Bolter
Got some garage time today. It was slow going, but some progress was made. Before moving to the cab corners, I decided to do an initial fitting of the replacement floor pan. Before doing that, I decided that I would get rid of whatever was covering the original floor. I was concerned, since the truck is so old, that the coating was red lead paint. So, with that in mind, I took to the removal as carefully as I could. I did all of the removal by hand, sanding and wiping the dust up with a wet paper towel. Lather, rinse repeat until the entire passenger side floor was as clean as I could get it. After that, I coated it with the rust reformer paint. After the paint was dry, I laid out cut lines for removing the rusted out parts. The cut lines are visible in the attached pic. Before doing the cutting, I did do that test fit. It's pretty close, but not exact, so some finessing will likely be required. Not a surprise, based on all of the other write ups that I've seen here. Anyway, just the first fitting. Plenty more of that to come.

Attached Files
20210909_094829.jpg (281.72 KB, 134 downloads)

Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog [grayghost53.blogspot.com]
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1425948 Tue Oct 05 2021 04:23 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 261
G
'Bolter
Hi Everybody,

Been away for a couple of weeks, but am back now and got some garage time the last couple of days. Good progress is being made! I've finished the fitting of the passenger side floor pan into the truck. It marries up to the rocker panel, under floor brace and the remaining floor structure nicely. It took me several days of finessing the part into place. Long story short, the existing floor structure had been bent at some time in it's past. There were both a high and low spot.... Once I finally figured that out, I massaged the old metal into better shape and the new floor pan stopped resisting. I think the low spot will require just a little more persuasion, and that's fine. Anyway, with everything fitting well enough, I got down to the business of locking it all down with sheet metal screws. As I mentioned earlier, I have no experience with doing a restoration of any vehicle. In fact, I don't even have experience in driving or riding in these trucks! So I don't know what I expected as to the rigidity of the floor or any other structure in the truck. My truck was always a little spongey feeling when I would climb into it. Those days are now gone! I am truly amazed at how rigid the floor structure became once the floor was screwed to the rocker, rear remaining floor, floor brace and remaining toe board.

So, what's next? Well, I'm going to take it all apart! As I mentioned above, there is still a little bit of fitting (low spot) left to do and the final cutting out of rusty metal. I put off the final cutting until I knew how and where the new metal would fit. After I get that work done, I'll reattach the parts, hopefully for good. I'm undecided if I'll weld them in right away or just use the sheet metal screws again and tackle the rear cab corners and hinge pillar first. Oh yeah, cab corners.... I changed my mind from my last post! I decided the floor was more important, plus I'll need to remove the bed to gain access to the full width of the cab corners. So, that'll happen down the road sometime.

Attached are a couple of pics. The first is where I started. Then, I've attached a couple with different angles of where I'm at today. As always, helpful comments, suggestions and questions are welcome.

Attached Files
20210623_093334 (1).jpg (171.26 KB, 115 downloads)
20211005_105138.jpg (231.7 KB, 117 downloads)
20211005_105050.jpg (288.89 KB, 118 downloads)

Mike

1953 3100
1994 Chevy 1500 (Donated to charity 2016)
2002 Chevy S10 ZR2

My Restoration Adventure Blog [grayghost53.blogspot.com]
Re: Restoring the basketcase
Gray_Ghost #1426009 Wed Oct 06 2021 04:30 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 15,804
'Bolter
Doggone good work. One your going to be proud of and you did it
Thanks for keeping us updsted.


1937 Chevy Pickup [stovebolt.com]

1952 Chevy Panel [stovebolt.com]
52 Chevy Panel [photos.app.goo.gl]

Pictures in my Photobucket [s140.photobucket.com]

1950 Chevy Coupe
https://photos.websearch.com/share/...Nko1cUJCNFFMTVFEUnNRbjFhNTFPc1J4YWV4cmRB



I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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