I also used jim carters material because from all my searches he had the very best match to original maroon material in my 49 gmc. My seat still had some original pieces intact in the channel around the seat and I will say his material was basically spot on. I was very very happy with the fit and quality of everything from JC. I bought the batting material from them also. Its not a “fun” job but I did it in probably half a Saturday.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The shop manual refers to two springs, one on each side. If you only put one on, the runners will tend to bind up.
If you only have one spring, you should be able to find a matching one at a decent hardware store. If you don't have one, maybe a helpful 'bolter will help out with some measurements. (Hint, Hint. I need those as well.)
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
It's best to take it to a pro. The pro will make sure that the springs are in good shape and replace any dodgy ones and properly tie them in. Ask around at local car meets to find a good pro.
Im a big fan of doin everything myself for free. I had 1 broken spring. I welded it back together and transferred it from the drivers side bottom to the center of the seat back where it will least likely be abused. Wasnt really that bad of a job to do on a set of saw horses with a piece of plywood. Seat feels perfect. No need to sub out everything especially something as easy as a old flat bench seat.
I agree with that barnfind most of the parts im ordering are expensive enough , im trying to feel my way through this partial restoration and do as much of the work myself as possible . I am mechanically inclined but by no means am i a mechanic