We are still asking: What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
what have you guys used for your front seat reupholstery ? i dont wanna spend a fortune but just want something decent and not to complicated to install thanks
Last edited by mikeg103; Mon Jul 05 2021 12:54 PM.
I also used jim carters material because from all my searches he had the very best match to original maroon material in my 49 gmc. My seat still had some original pieces intact in the channel around the seat and I will say his material was basically spot on. I was very very happy with the fit and quality of everything from JC. I bought the batting material from them also. Its not a “fun” job but I did it in probably half a Saturday.
How many seat return springs are on the bottom of the seat frame ? is there just one or is 2 required and if one which side does it go on ? thanks for the help
It's best to take it to a pro. The pro will make sure that the springs are in good shape and replace any dodgy ones and properly tie them in. Ask around at local car meets to find a good pro.
the springs are fine , im refering to the slide springs on the seat frame when i took the seat frame out i only found the one spring , not sure if another is needed or which side it goes on , thanks
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The shop manual refers to two springs, one on each side. If you only put one on, the runners will tend to bind up.
If you only have one spring, you should be able to find a matching one at a decent hardware store. If you don't have one, maybe a helpful 'bolter will help out with some measurements. (Hint, Hint. I need those as well.)
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's
It's best to take it to a pro. The pro will make sure that the springs are in good shape and replace any dodgy ones and properly tie them in. Ask around at local car meets to find a good pro.
Im a big fan of doin everything myself for free. I had 1 broken spring. I welded it back together and transferred it from the drivers side bottom to the center of the seat back where it will least likely be abused. Wasnt really that bad of a job to do on a set of saw horses with a piece of plywood. Seat feels perfect. No need to sub out everything especially something as easy as a old flat bench seat.
I agree with that barnfind most of the parts im ordering are expensive enough , im trying to feel my way through this partial restoration and do as much of the work myself as possible . I am mechanically inclined but by no means am i a mechanic
The shop manual refers to two springs, one on each side. If you only put one on, the runners will tend to bind up.
If you only have one spring, you should be able to find a matching one at a decent hardware store. If you don't have one, maybe a helpful 'bolter will help out with some measurements. (Hint, Hint. I need those as well.)
the end to end measure is approx 12 inches , i tried home depot last night and you know how that goes , will have to try a few mom and pop stores i seem to have better luck there sometimes . Auto parts stores are a joke if they cant punch in a number they cant help either
I agree with that barnfind most of the parts im ordering are expensive enough , im trying to feel my way through this partial restoration and do as much of the work myself as possible . I am mechanically inclined but by no means am i a mechanic
None of the interior work is “hard” but just more or less time consuming. Hardest part of my seat was rebuilding the lower corner that had rust issue. I patched it up and it worked out fine. The painting of the entire inside cab was my least favorite but it came out great and I was happy to have it done. The absolute hardest part for me was committing to take the truck all apart when it was fully functional running and driving around with AC. I hated having it out of service since I drive it on almost a daily or at least weekly basis. I normally drive it everywhere as soon as im out of work friday.
im in the same boat however mine is a step above a barnfind it runs and drives but needs it all . My worst part so far has been cleaning the areas where mice have set up shop and had a party , man does their mess stink !!
Seat springs and the associated parts need to be spring steel otherwise they will just bend and not bounce back. I found a old spring mattress has everything you need to rebuild a seat.
Mike
1940 Chevy 1/2 Ton presently in pieces... 1940 Chevy Business Coupe
quote=Gord&Fran It's best to take it to a pro. The pro will make sure that the springs are in good shape and replace any dodgy ones and properly tie them in. Ask around at local car meets to find a good pro./quote
Im a big fan of doin everything myself for free. I had 1 broken spring. I welded it back together and transferred it from the drivers side bottom to the center of the seat back where it will least likely be abused. Wasnt really that bad of a job to do on a set of saw horses with a piece of plywood. Seat feels perfect. No need to sub out everything especially something as easy as a old flat bench seat.
Mikeg103 I go to the fabrick store buy a canvas type material that is kinda stiff,my wife can sew that so the joint wants to be L shaped,use your old cover for a pattern,on a 51 3100 that cloth is held with clips that don't hurt it like hog rings. Change out weak springs,pad with new foam tied in place so it wont move. on beaters if it wears thru you can turn it inside out and go some more,like on a wood hauler. Make you some cardboard patterns of seat top and back to work off of they are easily changed !!
I used the covers and backing material from Jim Carter. The quality of the products was very good. I had read in other posts that some people put down carpeting instead of the batting. I had the batting from the kit and wanted to use it. I also liked the idea of separating the springs from my backside. I ended up getting a very thin, vinyl backed carpet runner from Home Depot. Combining the batting and the very thin runner worked well.
In the attached pics, you can see a comparison between the original "V" shaped clip and the replacement weird shaped clips. By wrapping the cover around the frame and tucking it into the groove in the frame, you can replicate how GM did it. I'm including a pic that shows the frame sitting on a piece of gray carpet. In the pic, you can see the cover wrapped around the frame and a spring clip holding it in place to the left. Additionally, you can see the bends in the fabric where the permanent clips were installed into the frame, holding the fabric cover in place. The third pic shows a close up of the clip, in place.
My truck is a 1953 3100, so I chose from that group of seat covers. I know it is the spanish grain version and think it is the brown color, although it may be the maroon. I honestly don't remember. It looks more brown in the attached pic.... If you have a remnant of the original fabric, I'd use that for color choice. I found a ton of the original fabric embedded in the channel that the clips fit in. In fact, it was very tedious getting it all out so that I could reupholster the seat! The second pic shows the frame with the replacement batting and burlap sitting in place, but not attached and also shows the groove and original fabric remnants.
mike 103 I go get kinda stiff canvas material ,my wife sews up covers I put in strategic springs pad it clip em on there,head for the woods. That is on a beater !! Also make a cardboard headliner,about every 5 years
Mike 103 I haven't been able to do pictures yet,have learned to do those seats up fairly cheap you can get new generic springs at your upholestry shop just put in where you need them.
thanks guys i got it done by a local guy he did a beautiful job , stripped it all down painted the frames and put pleats in it added extra foam , they are more comfortable than my wifes new car !
no never did at this point i dont think ill need them the seats gonna stay all the way back anyway
Originally Posted by fixite7
mike 103 I go get kinda stiff canvas material ,my wife sews up covers I put in strategic springs pad it clip em on there,head for the woods. That is on a beater !! Also make a cardboard headliner,about every 5 years
In the pic, you can see the cover wrapped around the frame and a spring clip holding it in place to the left. Additionally, you can see the bends in the fabric where the permanent clips were installed into the frame, holding the fabric cover in place. The third pic shows a close up of the clip, in place.
How did you snap those clips (the ones that kinda look like an omega shape) on to the upholstery material? They are much too small to snap in with fingers and pliers will ruin the material.
54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by JoeDude
How did you snap those clips (the ones that kinda look like an omega shape) on to the upholstery material? They are much too small to snap in with fingers and pliers will ruin the material.
The pliers should contact the metal frame behind the fabric and the clip. I haven't done that job yet, but am thinking about getting a cheap pair of pliers without sharp teeth and modifying them to hold the clip (maybe a semi-circular groove). Or maybe a pad on one side of the pliers so the material isn't damaged.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's
How did you snap those clips (the ones that kinda look like an omega shape) on to the upholstery material? They are much too small to snap in with fingers and pliers will ruin the material.
We used to have a special set of pliers with rubber coated jaws for clips like that. For as few clips as there are on a single seat, you could probably get away with wrapping the jaws of your pliers in 5-6 layers of electrical tape to protect the fabric. Or if you wanted to be really fancy, grind the teeth smooth and dip it in that rubber stuff for making new handles on tools.
58 Apache, long bed fleetside, V8 w/SM420 Drivable but the rear axle needs work.
Mikeg103 I use heavy canvas from JoAnn fabrics,wife sews it so edge joints want to be an ell,then replace coils as needed, fix-up new padding. A beauty of AD trucks is you can take your covers on and off,adjust padding, on my beaters have even turned the cover inside out to wear-out the OK passenger side before changing it to fresh covers !!
Joe Dude Maybe your material is kinda thick,I think I took a short wooden stick to bump those on, Old ones will break when you take them off. Uphostery shop got me a box of those clips (25 yrs. ago) same thing. That canvas I mentioned above worked OK with those clips.
I've used binder clips instead of the "proper" clips. They work great and allow adjustment after installation Just remove the "handles" after installation.
How are you going to get your truck in the garage when you put the front clip back on? It barely fits now!
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; Mon Jan 17 2022 08:16 PM.
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe 1950 Chevrolet 3100 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado 1966 Ford Mustang 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe 1979 Ford F-100 1976 Ford F-150 1995 Ford F-150
