Got the offending pumps off. Now to find new stuff, scrape muck off the engine, paint bits... P.O. said it wasn't running very well. No. 3 and 6 lighting hoses were crossed, both coil wires were dicey, etc... Now that the waterpump is off there are no strange noises.
Thermostat choice is dictated somewhat by climate and intended use. I live in SLC, Utah which has four seasons and 100 degree summer days. I don’t drive my truck much in the winter but do in good weather. I had a 180 deg. at first which ran too hot in summer. Now I run a 160 deg. which does not leave me wondering if it is going to boil over in traffic or leave a puddle when I park it.
"Water not stay in the radiator long enough to cool..." Old wive's tale. The racers up the flow rate as much as possible to reduce hot spots within the engine. I've run with no thermostat and it never got above 140. I run mine over the mountains (5600 ft.) in the summer and found the 180 is too hot. Engine is noisier when it's hotter. 160 seems just right. I no longer drive it in the winter because the state is now using de-icer on the roads so I just leave the 160 in year round.
"Water not stay in the radiator long enough to cool..." Old wive's tale.
A little math quickly dispels that notion. If your coolant flows slower through your radiator dissipating heat, it also flows slower through your block and heads, gaining heat. Your engine head temp is around 400 degrees, or 220 ABOVE the ideal engine coolant operating temperature of 180 degrees. Ambient air flowing through the radiator is approximately 80-100 degrees (depending on the weather), or 80 degrees LESS than the ideal engine coolant operating temperature. 220 degree gain versus 80 loss - the slower the coolant flows, the more it will heat up.