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Front Engine Oil Leak 235
#1407875 Thu Apr 29 2021 02:57 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 66
P
pjdee Offline OP
'Bolter
Howdy, my 55 1st series had been sitting for a couple of years.
When I got her running again I noticed a leak coming from the
timing cover/engine mount area. I snapped a picture that I
took from the passenger side fender. Any advice or suggestion
is greatly appreciated!

Attached Files
Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1407886 Thu Apr 29 2021 11:02 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,257
Bubba
Crankshaft front seal - it dries/sets-up in-place, and then leaks in place after the crankshaft is rotated?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1407891 Thu Apr 29 2021 12:59 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 66
P
pjdee Offline OP
'Bolter
Im not sure, I just noticed it when I started running it. Going to try and remove radiator, timing chain cover. Is this something a speedy sleeve would
fix?

Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1407893 Thu Apr 29 2021 01:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,300
G
'Bolter
Well if there is a grove where the seal rides, then a sleeve would probly be a good idea. Might just be a hard seal? You'll see when its opened up. Oh, and the timing chain cover does NOT need to be removed to replace the seal.

Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1407894 Thu Apr 29 2021 01:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,125
P
AD Addict
This is a somewhat tedious job, not meant for the “Faint of Heart”, but with guidance, doable by most that possess a bit of mechanical aptitude.

You’ll need to pull the harmonic balancer to replace the seal. The balancer has threaded holes to bolt a puller to. You can rent one from most FLAPS. Don’t use a three jaw puller as it may damage the rubber or rivets in the harmonic balancer.

Once the balancer is removed you have access to the seal. A bit tricky, but you can get the old seal out, without pulling the timing cover. Don’t attempt to pull the cover, as access to the two lower bolts are from inside the crankcase. I used a small three jaw puller with the jaws inverted. I’m sure there are other methods, that other on this forum would love to share.

Once removed, inspect the area on the harmonic balancer for wear. If worn, you can buy a stainless steel sleeve to go over the worn area to give your new seal a nice area to ride on. Mine needed the speedy sleeve so I provided a picture of what it looks like installed.

Assembly is a bit more tricky but certainly doable! To tap the new seal in place, I use a large socket that contacts the outside edge of the seal and has clearance inside for the crank shaft. A little smear of #2 Permatex or suitable Locktite on the OD of the seal helps.

Next is to replace the balancer. A subject of debate as to how to do it, has been raging for years on this forum. I installed this balancer by hammering it on the same way the GM factory trained mechanics did it for years. You will need to drive hardwood wedges between the flywheel and the back of the bell housing, to protect the thrust bearing on the crank. You’ll also need to use something like a block of wood (on the end grain), to protect the balancer from hammer marks. My balancer has the ears for a hand crank, so I fabricated a installation tool from a few black iron fitting, so I had clearance for the ears.

Others have threaded the snout on the crank shaft, so you can use a balancer installation tool, definitely a much gentler method with the added security of a bolted on balancer.

Good Luck!

Attached Files
BFE3E704-401D-4BAC-ACC0-B3050283A297.jpeg (154.34 KB, 210 downloads)
B3D2CE40-2399-4036-9A9B-6A8718A1732F.jpeg (300.62 KB, 204 downloads)
Last edited by Phak1; Thu Apr 29 2021 05:29 PM.

Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery

‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1407940 Thu Apr 29 2021 08:00 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 66
P
pjdee Offline OP
'Bolter
Thank you for the detailed explanation! And photos! I really appreciate it. I’ll start digging into it this weekend. I’ll keep you posted!

Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1407965 Fri Apr 30 2021 12:02 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,125
P
AD Addict
thumbs_up


Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery

‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1408071 Fri Apr 30 2021 05:09 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 117
T
'Bolter
I use a Lisle 58340 Seal Remover for this type work.

Lisle Seal Remover [amazon.com]

The other trick is to cut a piece of plastic from a pop (or soda if you live in certain geographic regions) bottle. Wrap it around the OD (the sealing surface on the nose) of the crank and slide it back under the lip of the old seal. Then slide the tip of the tool under the lip and over the top of the plastic.

The thin layer of plastic protects the sealing surface of the crank.


Rusty
Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1408073 Fri Apr 30 2021 05:34 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,277
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The poor man's trick to removing a seal like that is to screw a sheet metal screw into the metal rim of the seal and use a pry bar under the head of the screw to pop it out.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Front Engine Oil Leak 235
pjdee #1408075 Fri Apr 30 2021 05:37 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 117
T
'Bolter
I have successfully used the screw into the metal approach. I have also seen people ruin a good sealing surface when the drill bit jumped.


Rusty
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