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#1407101 Thu Apr 22 2021 08:26 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 495
M
'Bolter
Tomorrow I plan to mount my cab to my frame. My truck is a 1953 half ton. The cab is hanging by a chain hoist, above the frame. This all appears to be a very straight forward procedure. I just thought that I'd check in with this group in case you have any tips or hints that could help me, or cautions on things to avoid. Thanks


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Mike Burns #1407117 Thu Apr 22 2021 10:53 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,070
J
'Bolter
It is mostly straightforward. I've always attached the rear mounts first and then used a metal rod to line the front bolt holes up as needed. But ask 5 guys and you may get 5 different opinions, Mike.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Mike Burns #1407131 Thu Apr 22 2021 11:55 PM
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 130
C
'Bolter
I agree with Jon - rear mounts first, just recommend loosely installing the rear mounts to the underside of the cab first, then lower the cab down on the frame and make up the bolts to the frame. It's easier to align and get the bolts in that way. Good luck!


Charlie

'51 3100 5-Window (Restomod in progress)
Mike Burns #1407241 Sat Apr 24 2021 03:19 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,225
5
'Bolter
I place 3/4" pieces of wood on the frame near where the rear cab mounts are for the rear of the cab to lay on. 3/4" is close to what your gap there should be.
I then lower the cab slowly while fishing the front cab bolts through the hole in the bottom of the cab and the frame.
Once I have the front mount pads and shims in place, and my cab support-to-frame gap is correct, I tighten the bolts.
I then install the rear shackle mounts and make sure the cab-to-frame gaps are correct.
I do it in this order to stabilize the cab at the front mounts, because the rear shackles are wonky it the front of the cab is not in the right position and secure.

Mike Burns #1407654 Tue Apr 27 2021 01:32 PM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 52
G
'Bolter
I know I am jumping in here with no value add to the conversation, but I cannot help but ask for some additional information from the group here... I am bad a reading the assembly manual, so... can anyone on this thread be specific about what the manual says about the gaps between frame and cab, both front and rear? I understand the 3/4" pieces of wood to approximate the rear gap... how about for the front of the cab? One more complication... I am putting the cab on an Art Morrison frame that does not require the rear shackles.. the cab is hard-bolted to the frame just as is done to the front of the cab. Any thoughts on what to be cautious about when mounting the rear of the cab in this way? My thoughts are that as long as we achieve the assembly manual gap recommendations on the rear, that is what matters, so add shims and pads as needed to achieve that gap. Also, I will have the option of playing with a completely new floor assembly individually from the cab (that is, I can mock up the floor by mounting it to the frame before I remove the old the old floor and weld in the new floor... does this make it easier to achieve the right gaps or will the whole world change when cab and floor are one unit? Thank you all in advance for helping a guy who is good on ideas but pitiful at bringing those ideas into reality.


1952 Chevy 3100
Mike Burns #1407684 Tue Apr 27 2021 06:08 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,934
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The 47-54 FAM (Sect 1 Sheet 3.12 for all 3000 - 4000 - 6000 cabs) points at the shim between the floor and the cab mount shackle and say "USED TO MAINTAIN .76 +.06/-0 DIM BETWEEN FLOOR PANEL AND TOP OF FRAME"
For the front mounting point (Sect 1 Sheet 3.09) it calls out a dimension of "1.83 +.06/-0 TOP OF FRAME TO BOTTOM OF FLOOR PANEL 3000-4000-6000)"

That difference is interesting as the cab welding checking dimensions (Section 1, Sheet 1.07) indicates top of floor at 11.88 and top of frame at 10 above the reference line. That indicates that the floor is parallel with the top of the frame, but the rear shackle mounting dimension would have the rear lower than the front by over an inch. headscratch

Anyway, a rigid mount should maintain the same dimensions, assuming the frame configuration is the same as a stock frame.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Mike Burns #1407712 Tue Apr 27 2021 09:18 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,419
K
'Bolter
If you have a different frame as long as the frame rails are in the same area as originals why not consider to use the original rear mounts they look to be decent and are cheap to replace the rubber


kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage [stovebolt.com]
Mike Burns #1407721 Tue Apr 27 2021 11:40 PM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 52
G
'Bolter
I am most fortunate to benefit from all of your advice and experience... Thanks


1952 Chevy 3100
Mike Burns #1407937 Thu Apr 29 2021 07:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,070
J
'Bolter
One thing to watch for...sorry not to have thought of this previously, but it can always be adjusted if need be. The pads you get today for the front of the cab are not the same as original. Big surprise, eh? They may look like the right height, but when used, they compress more. This wouldn't be a problem, because they more or less compress equally, however on the passenger side, your cab can start touching the frame and this will transmit a lot of noise you (a) don't want and (b) may even have trouble diagnosing. If you need to raise it a bit, you can go to a hardware or plumbing supply store and buy 1 foot (probably 1ft x 5 or 6 feet long) of shower pan liner. This is a PVC material and it won't compress much at all. Cut it into about 2" x 2" pieces put a hole in the center and use a jack/piece of wood to lift each side of the cab up where you can slide these in there. In fact if you have hammer punches (real common and today all made in Egypt, India, somewhere like that) you can make your own mounting pads using the special cement they use for this pvc shower liner and they'll be infinitely better than what you get today.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Mike Burns #1407938 Thu Apr 29 2021 07:43 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,070
J
'Bolter
This is what I'm talking about. Get the 40 mil thickness: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Shower-Pan-Gray-PVC-Shower-Pan-Liner/3127069


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
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