The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


WELCOME

The site has expanded to include the 1973 to 1987 trucks!

Check out the new forum just for them and welcome our newest brothers and sisters with the "Rounded Line" trucks.
Encourage one another! Share what you've learned!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
4 members (casper50, coilover, tomctomc, 1 invisible), 121 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics122,603
Posts989,108
Members44,491
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 5 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405111 Wed Apr 07 2021 02:27 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,980
J
Jon G Offline OP
'Bolter
It should be ok. Here is the caveat, however (and the reason I'm still writing about this is I don't want there to be a single surprise discovered by anyone out there): if all is well and the dash lights are the solitary draw on it, everything swims along nicely. If for any reason something happens to ground one of those dash light wires (a wire break, somebody crudely added an uninsulated connection when they wanted to add a light wire for their tachometer, vacuum gauge, radio, etc), then the coil will heat to a glowing red tout de suite. It looks just like a miniature hot plate. A lot of amperage flows through the headlight switch and this resistance wire takes just a blink of time to glow in the case of a short. Yes...there is a circuit breaker, but there are 3 things about that: the coil might glow before that breaker activates, one never knows if the breaker is working correctly until it is needed and the breaker re-sets itself so the coil will keep glowing/not glowing as long as the short is there. While working on the fuel sender project, I became curious about how little voltage & amperage would be needed to make resistance wire glow...for anyone who doesn't know, this wire is used to make smokeless tobacco units. Turns out a common AA battery will make a 6 inch piece of wire hot enough to blister your fingers. That battery is 1.5v and milliamps of power. I hooked that same piece of wire to a 12v power supply I use (12v dc with 1 amp of power) and with a direct short circuit, the wire turned cherry red in about 1 second.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405113 Wed Apr 07 2021 03:14 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 849
K
'Bolter
Going to try one more trick to see if it will solve the problem the wiper looks like it catches on the spring so I am going to try and clean up the wiper so there is no edge for it to catch the spring .It also looks like there may be a small bump on the porcelain that holds the end of the spring in the porcelain at the end were it is not attached to the rivet


kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405180 Thu Apr 08 2021 01:39 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 954
'Bolter
Jon, thanks for the lesson on resistance wire. I really appreciate the time you invest in SB. Your knowledge is a tremendous asset to all Stovebolters.

Kevin, let us know how your dimmer repair turns out. Feel free to post some before and after pics too! wink


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104 [flic.kr]
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred [flic.kr]

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405189 Thu Apr 08 2021 02:45 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 849
K
'Bolter
Will let everyone know the results ,here is what the start looks like.all looks good until the switch is turned then this happens pictures .

Attached Files

kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405190 Thu Apr 08 2021 02:53 AM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,980
J
Jon G Offline OP
'Bolter
That coil appears to be disconnected, Kevinski. From your images it seems to be broken. I'll be interested to see what you find.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405195 Thu Apr 08 2021 03:33 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 849
K
'Bolter
I will have to look again on my other switch but I thought the coil was only connected on the one end ,it also looks that way on the pictures from Kevin from Alaska.It looks like there should be a bump in the porcelain to hold the spring in its centre and there is no wire on the rivet were the end of the spring is not connected .

Last edited by KEVINSKI; Thu Apr 08 2021 03:41 AM. Reason: More imfo

kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405233 Thu Apr 08 2021 03:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 849
K
'Bolter
Okay checked out the other switch and it looks like the spring has no connection on the one end ,the porcelain does have a finger that goes into the centre of the spring to hold it and that is what broke on this one to cause the spring to go like a slinky when you turn the dimmer switch .I cleaned up the porcelain pulled the spring out and straightened the loops as best I could ,put in some j b weld at the bottom and will looks like it will do the trick as long as the j b weld holds up .The picture with the red on it is from another switch that is good

Attached Files

kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405279 Fri Apr 09 2021 01:00 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 954
'Bolter
So, the porcelain has a keeper at each end of the resistance wire to hold it in place? Are there contacts behind the resistance wire? I'm trying to understand the current flow through the dimmer component, thanks.


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104 [flic.kr]
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred [flic.kr]

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405283 Fri Apr 09 2021 01:47 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 849
K
'Bolter
I haven’t tested the switch but out of the 3 I have they all look the same on the one end the spring is attached to the rivet on the other it is held in by what looks like a bump in the porcelain that goes into the centre of the spring .I am not electrically inclined but I think the current would go through the spoon that turns and rubs on the spring as it is insulated from the housing .Maybe Jon G can help on this one .


kevinski 1954 GMC 9300 Welcome to the virtual Garage
Re: Repair your headlight switch...tutorial
Jon G #1405288 Fri Apr 09 2021 02:04 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 3,653
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I don't have mine in front of me, but the end of the spring that's attached to the rivet is one part of the circuit, and the wiper that runs along the spring is the other part of the circuit. The difference in the length of the spring between the wiper and the riveted end changes the resistance of the circuit and the brightness of the dash lights.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Page 5 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6

Moderated by  Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4