Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1950 3100 How to remove the hood

There was a thread many months ago on the subject of lining up the hood during installation. A ‘bolter had the idea of drilling small holes in the hinges before removing the hood. When reinstalling it he said you would line up the small holes and put a pin through them and then bolt everything up and it would fit just like it did before the hood was removed. I think it’s a great idea.

I wish I could find that thread!

Thank you for all the help with removing the hood. The operation was success! Once you get the hood off it is amazingly easy to handle.

When I put in back in place I will use the boom I created to pick the cab!

Good work with the slinging job.

Any advice on how to rebuild the hood hinges. Are there any videos out there? Should I replace the springs? Are the replacement springs any better than the springs I already have?

My hinges were loose in both the bolts and on some on the pivot pins. The pivot pins are riveted and were loose. I was able to tighten up the loose rivets by fabricating a punch from an old bolt (I used my lathe but could be easily done with a grinder), to expand the rivet, I used this punch on my hydraulic press but you could use a vice or just a BFH. Here is a few pictures.

As far as the bolts, you can buy new ones at most online vendors.
Here is a [LINK] [classicparts.com] . They also have new hinges at a reasonable cost, but its best to stick with original.

If your bolt holes are worn, welding and re-drilling would be your best option.

I have not seen a vendor that offers replacement hood springs, so I think the only option would be to replace the entire assembly. Here is a [LINK] [classicparts.com].

Phil,

Is there anyone out there that you have heard of that is refurbishing these hinges, commercially speaking. My hinges are loose, and after rebuilding my door hinges, I think getting the slop out of the hood hinges is a move in the right direction, but I am concerned about destroying the existing rivet. I have a vice that might work, or might be able to get access to a press. If tool you made on the lathe works, are you in the market to sell one?

Not to steal any of Phil's thunder, but if the hole in the arm where it goes around the shoulder of the rivet is worn too much, just tightening up the rivet with a press isn't going to help much. The only way I can think of to fully restore hood hinges is to turn a new shoulder rivet on a lathe with a slightly larger diameter shoulder.
You can buy replacement hood hinges, but I can't speak to the quality of them (likely produced offshore).

Kevin, I am concerned at this point about the side to side movement in the hinges. Now that may due to an increased size of the hole the rivet runs through. In my mind I thought the solution was to just smash down the rivet further if that is possible, and the issue would be solved. But that may be the wrong approach as you are suggesting.

I am not opposed to purchasing new hinges, but I have read so many things about these hinges and most the time it is bad news regarding reproduction hinges.

Tightening the rivets would take care of excess side-to-side motion of the hood, but I don't think that's a big issue, only occurring when the hood is open. When it's down and latched, it's restrained by the bumpers at the fenders and the strip along the cowl that extends down each side.

Kevin, The rivets that I tightened on the hinge are hollow, so when I pressed in the punch, it not only tightened the flange, it also expanded the rivet in the hole. Thats why I turned the cone shaped tip so when it went in the hollow part of the rivet, it expanded it. 45 degrees seemed perfect as it allowed the expansion of the rivet before it bottomed out. I was surprised at how well it worked. How long it lasts is another story that only time will tell.

ChevyDarren, the punch I made on the lathe is nothing but a 1/2” bolt with the end turned down at about a 45 degree angle. You don’t really need a lathe as you could just as easily grind the tip. It doesn’t have to be perfect, nor do you have to turn the OD as I did, just the tip. You won’t destroy the rivets. Like I said before, you could use the punch and BFH.

I would just send you the punch, but I’m nowhere near my shop and won’t be there anytime soon.