Stovebolt.com Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks starting/charging system

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 63 starting/charging system, or an accurate source to purchase from? Just put a high torque starter in with only 1 small terminal for the starter signal wire. I need to figure out what the accessory wires go to so I can wire them into another source. Truck has original gauges not idiot lights. Thanks for the help.

Answer a few questions and I will help you wire it.
1. Starter part number and vendor?
2. Alternator or generator? If alternator, delcotron (remote voltage regulator) or 10si type (internal regulator)?
3. Any other mods to electrical?
4. What do you mean by "accessory wires"? Specifically.
5. What do you mean by "starter signal wire"? Specifically.

I may know what I think you mean, but need to know more specifically from you to be sure.
You ask about starter but also mention charging. The two are not related.

I have to look at the box again for the starter brand.
Alternator, external regulated
no electrical mods other than electric fans and tach, put those on years ago.
Starter signal wire is purple on most older gm vehicles from the ignition switch to engage the bendix usually on a terminal by itself.
The other set of wires that are usually on the other small terminal is what i mean by accessory wires. i just dont know what they power since i dont have a wiring diagram. I think i can just rewire those to another ignition power source but i dont know what exactly they go power yet.

only reason for the starter upgrade is because i built an 11:1 383 stroker for it and the old starter was dragging. Snap on shopkey program at work has nothing in its database for vehicles this old.

I have the necessary diagrams. Are you still using points ignition? or did you switch to HEI? The only possible issue I see is a bypass circuit for points ignition. If you have HEI, no problem. I will advise after I get that info.
With a 383 V8, and in general, you need to change to an internally regulated alternator. It will eliminate the voltage regulator and greatly simplify the wiring and components. I advise a standard Delco 10si alternator. Most of which are rebuilt. Not a one wire. This will be very easy to do. They are $50 shipped.

Also: Post the colors of the wires you are unsure of, as to where they go. Give any known info about them.

my '63 1/2t had the full complement of gauges including a factory tach. dont forget, the original wiring harness
had a resistance wire in the mix.

Yes, it does. I am waiting for HEI or points. HEI will not need the R-wire or an R terminal on starter. Either way, I have the answer ready. Gauge type or tach makes no difference for this question. The tach sounds like aftermarket.

It is HEI. been that way since i bought it. I dont have a pic of the other 2 wires that went to the starter and dont remember the colors of the top of my head. They may not even be needed. I have been wanting to switch to an internally regulated alternator. Have the alternator but waiting on the time which is right around the corner.

As for the starter: Positive battery cable to starter large stud. Ignition switch start wire to starter S terminal.

As for incoming power for various components: Fusible link attached at battery positive, other end attached to a 12ga wire which goes to the horn relay battery terminal(s). Those terminals act as a power distribution point to various components. I added the fusible link.*

Unconnected unknown wires: They may be:
1. Old resistor wire. This is now abandoned.
2. Incoming power wire.
3. Old coil wire.
4. Seems like they were on the old starter, so maybe no. 1 and 3. Neither would be needed because of HEI. So why would they have been connected to starter? That may mean a previous owner used the starter stud instead of horn relay and they are no. 2 wires.
5. Do you have the large, metal, three terminal, horn relay mounted to inner fender? or near.

Let me know if you need help with alternator. Provide part number and vendor of alternator.

* Fusible link: sold at local auto parts stores. You will need a 16 ga. It looks like a piece of wire with a ring tongue terminal on one end and a butt crimp on the other. They are not "just" a piece of wire, they are a special wire. The conductor will melt, acting like a fuse. Has high temp, fire rated insulation. They are sized 4 gauges smaller (higher number) than the wire being protected.

Thanks for the info. I work a lot through the week and the weekend is the only time i really get to mess with it when not doing other necessary things on the property. Somebody did a job on the harness before i got it but everything does work. Im going to trace the wires this weekend to see if they are needed and/or what they go to. I will probably order a new engine bay harness and cab harness. I will hit you up if I need any help with the alternator.