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Re: My '51 3100/3600 Project
Brian Wise #1404822 Mon Apr 05 2021 02:42 AM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 84
B
'Bolter
I'm getting very close to having the mechanical work all done. I think the only thing I have left to "rebuild" is the steering box. Since my last update, I've finished the rebuild of my SM 420 transmission and got it installed. I finished my front Huck-to-Bendix brake conversion, and I received a new set of alignment rings which allowed me to get the intake/exhaust installed on the motor. I then went back to my favorite wrecking yard and acquired the two-piece drive line out of a poor old '54 GMC 3/4 ton pickup. After it was all cleaned up, and with new universals and support bearing in place, I fitted it up between the transmission and differential so I could work out the angles.

With the frame level I first measured the angle at the carburetor base, which gave me 3.7 degrees (down). I then set the differential pinion angle at 3.7 degrees (up) so they cancel out. I then raised and lowered the drive line with a floor jack just ahead of the support bearing until both sections of the drive line were at the same angle (7.1 degrees), in other words the two sections are 'flat' relative to each other. Since the Dana 60 rear axle I'm using has an offset diff, the rear section of the drive line is angled, too. The (sideways) angles of the universals at the slip joint and at the diff are the same, so they also cancel out. The new support bearing I used is of the modern type that comes installed in a carrier, and it is not as 'tall' as the original set up. So with the drive line set in position, I took measurements to make an adapter spacer to go between the new bearing carrier and the plate that is riveted to the frame crossmember. With all of the fun stuff out of the way, I welded the spring perches on the rear axle, installed the rear shock mounts and shocks, welded on a bracket to hold the end of the flexible brake hose and "T" fitting, and then painted the rear axle.

I should point out that I did all of the above twice: with and without about 200 lbs. of dead weight on the rear end of the frame. The results of my measurements netted a difference of less than a degree, so I felt pretty good about the whole thing.

I've also started working on some of the sheet metal bits for the front end. Since I figured I'd better get the motor to a point where I can test run it pretty soon, I dug out my radiator and radiator support. A previous owner really tried to butcher the radiator support in an effort to do what, I'm not sure, but it had quite a few cuts and gouges in it from a grinder, and several areas that weren't flat anymore. Also, the bar that goes across the top wasn't attached to the support; both welds had been chiseled apart. So after a bunch of welding, grinding, hammering, etc. the support was one piece again, then cleaned and painted. I also cleaned, repaired and painted the sheet metal apron that sits at the bottom behind the grill, and the piece at the top of the radiator that holds the hood latch.

My son is pretty close to having the distributor complete (just got a whole bunch of parts from Bowtie Bits) and is also working on my carburetor. A few other items are on the way to get the motor ready for that first start up. On my immediate to-do list is get the last of the rear brake lines installed and the system bled, and install the parking brake cables.

Happy Easter everyone!

Attached Files
Drive shaft_01.jpg (112.32 KB, 84 downloads)
Rear axle_01.jpg (99.92 KB, 84 downloads)
Progress photo 04-02-2021.jpg (117.02 KB, 81 downloads)
Radiator_02.jpg (80.18 KB, 81 downloads)
Last edited by Brian Wise; Mon Apr 05 2021 02:47 AM.

Brian

'51 Chevy 3100/3600 Project
Re: My '51 3100/3600 Project
Brian Wise #1404915 Mon Apr 05 2021 11:09 PM
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 460
B
'Bolter
Im not 100% sure but dont you need to have at least .5 deg of angle from any joint? Otherwise the cups or needles get wore bad in 1 spot or the grease dosent get pushed around in them. I remember setting mine up on my truck when I swapped it. Was a pain to measure 20 times then do all the math and adjust the crossmember to get the height jusssttttt so.

Re: My '51 3100/3600 Project
Barnfind49 #1404936 Tue Apr 06 2021 02:46 AM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 84
B
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Barnfind49
Im not 100% sure but dont you need to have at least .5 deg of angle from any joint? Otherwise the cups or needles get wore bad in 1 spot or the grease dosent get pushed around in them. I remember setting mine up on my truck when I swapped it. Was a pain to measure 20 times then do all the math and adjust the crossmember to get the height jusssttttt so.

I know that you need to make sure that the universals are "loaded up" so that they stay in business. All three of the universals in my driveline are at some angle either horizontally (the 2nd and 3rd universals) or vertically (the 1st universal). None of them are in-line, and the net angle is zero (or as close as possible to it) to prevent vibration. Of course the only way I'll know for sure how it all feels is to drive the truck, but that's a ways off yet.


Brian

'51 Chevy 3100/3600 Project
Re: My '51 3100/3600 Project
Brian Wise #1404958 Tue Apr 06 2021 12:13 PM
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 460
B
'Bolter
Gotcha. I used the tremec app on my iphone and it helped make sense of the angles. You literally use the level in the phone to measure 3 angles and it gives you your totals. Pretty neat setup.

Re: My '51 3100/3600 Project
Barnfind49 #1405068 Wed Apr 07 2021 01:33 AM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 84
B
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Barnfind49
Gotcha. I used the tremec app on my iphone and it helped make sense of the angles. You literally use the level in the phone to measure 3 angles and it gives you your totals. Pretty neat setup.

I used a free app called "iLevel" which works nicely, and the graphics (changeable) are easy to see even without my reading glasses on.


Brian

'51 Chevy 3100/3600 Project
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