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Hi all Got the 53 fired up today. Noticed an oil leak from the remote filter assembly. The engine is a 235 from a 58-62 pickup. Oil pressure is good at 30 lbs. I tried snugging the fittings down. No help. Tips.tricks? Where can I get a replacement? Thanks [img][img]https://i.postimg.cc/hfFwz4C5/IMG-20210307-172801154.jpg[/img] [postimg.cc][/img]
Can you be a little ore specific about the location of the leak? Canister filters are notorious for leaking at the big gasket under the cover- - - -it's prone to get misaligned, or on occasion, the cover bolt isn't tightened enough. At 30 PSI of oil pressure, there is several hundred pounds of upward thrust against the cover. You really need to tighten that nut! Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
The leak seems to be on the underside of the rubber hose ,in the picture. Where it goes into that T fitting. No oil coming out of the cannister at all, that I can see.
I'd suggest getting a new set of hoses made up at a hydraulic shop, or replacing the flex lines with metal tubing if the canister is mounted to the intake manifold like most of them are. There's really no need for flex lines- - - -it was just simpler to use them when an oil filter was added as a dealer-installed option. An old, rotted flex line can burst and empty all the engine oil in a matter of a couple of minutes. Unless you're in the habit of watching your oil pressure, the first thing some people notice is the rods knocking or the engine locking up. New lines are cheap insurance. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Thanks for the replies. The plumbing it with Hardline sounds like a great idea what diameter line would you suggest I use? Is The nicopp line okay I've used that with brake lines and found it pretty easy to work with. Thanks
I bought replacement hoses from Classic Parts and could not get them to stop leaking. I installed ridgid Cu-Ni tubing in place of the hoses. It took me a bit of time to get the bends right but it paid off. It looks great and the best part is, it doesn’t leak.
Phil
1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project Journals ‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters “Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube 12v w/ Alternator
I used 5/16 Cu-Ni tubing and inverted flare adaptors from NAPA. Easy to bend, easy to flare. They say you can bend it by hand but I would suggest a tubing bender. Thats how I did it and it looks clean.
Last edited by Phak1; Mon Mar 08 2021 02:57 AM.
Phil
1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project Journals ‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters “Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube 12v w/ Alternator
Either 1/4" or 5/16" will work. The filter standpipe has a flow restrictor hole in it that's about 1/16" in diameter, so you won't approach the flow limit of even a 1/4" OD tube. When doing a hard pipe installation on anything that carries fluid or air pressure, I like to put a 360 degree "vibration loop" in each line to take stress off the flare or compression fittings. It might be overkill, but I'm always one to err on the side of caution, and/or safety. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!