The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


WELCOME

The site has expanded to include the 1973 to 1987 trucks!

Check out the new forum just for them and welcome our newest brothers and sisters with the "Rounded Line" trucks.
Encourage one another! Share what you've learned!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
20 members (55 SHAKER, Csims, Bill Trotter, D B Cooper, 3B, 48bigtrucks), 171 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics122,602
Posts989,186
Members44,498
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 4 1 2 3 4
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1398571 Wed Feb 24 2021 02:26 AM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 39
C
' 51 Chevy 3/4T, 5 window - mostly stock
Jon G, wow and wow... so much detail but all fully appreciated. I will go by our local hardware store or an Osh Supply in the area and try to look for these materials, thanks. If they dont have these, any good supply sites online to order them from? -Clem


Clem Donahue; Berkeley
'51 chevy 3600 3/4 ton, rebuilt 235; 6V still, 96% stock
'65 ford ranchero
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1398572 Wed Feb 24 2021 02:43 AM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,927
'Bolter
You should put this in a tech tip and submit it to the Stovebolt editor.

Chris

Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1398592 Wed Feb 24 2021 04:21 AM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,987
J
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Clem Donahue
Jon G, wow and wow... so much detail but all fully appreciated. I will go by our local hardware store or an Osh Supply in the area and try to look for these materials, thanks. If they dont have these, any good supply sites online to order them from? -Clem


If you don't find them, please let me know and I'll send what you need. My email address is jon_goodman@yahoo.com


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1399388 Sun Feb 28 2021 11:21 PM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 39
C
' 51 Chevy 3/4T, 5 window - mostly stock
Jon, Kevin and Chris and the rest of SB Nation. Thanks for your help

I got some tubing, and rod and want to fix this this week. Got some rebuild gauge stuff from Orange Garage in the LA area (rubber seals, needle for speedo etc...)

I want to ask you all best way to do the brass tube splice. My broken needle pin is at the transition from 1/16" to 1/32". The brass bushing in the cross rod is just above the break and it's 1/32" diameter. I see that I have two options to splice

A: Cut down lower on the 1/16" rod a little and splice there and run 1/32" up into the small brass cap that fits into the potmetal speedo needle holder. This will mean the spindle little rod will be changed from 3/16" long currently at the break site to about 1/2" long. And I will have to glue or solder in the tiny 1/32" rod into the 1/16" tube splice

B: Use only 1/16" rod and do the same splice site but only use 1/16". With this - will need to drill out the cross bar brass bushing to 1/16" and the small cap which also gets drilled out 1/16"

Hopefully look at my drawings and LMK which idea is better. I realized that if I splice above the cross bar, I can never take it apart again (hopefully never happen)

Also, the little tiny brass cap on the top, just under the needle. How do I get this off? Any ideas.
Last Question, solder or JB weld/equivalent? Need it to work, not be sexy also be able to come apart....
Real last question, any misgivings on redoing the odometer #s. I have stickers but scared they will peel off as my truck is outside and gets hot in the Calif sun, or just clean them up with simple green and call it quits. I have the stickers from the Redo Stickers Guage kit still

Thanks all.

Clem

Attached Files
51 speedo brass rod tubes.JPG (20.5 KB, 110 downloads)
51 speedo drawing CURRENT.JPG (18.63 KB, 112 downloads)
51 speedo drawing FIX A.JPG (22 KB, 111 downloads)
51 speedo drawing FIX B.JPG (15.9 KB, 112 downloads)
51 odometer stickers .JPG (37.29 KB, 110 downloads)

Clem Donahue; Berkeley
'51 chevy 3600 3/4 ton, rebuilt 235; 6V still, 96% stock
'65 ford ranchero
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1399496 Mon Mar 01 2021 02:56 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,987
J
'Bolter
Hi Clem,
The way I did this was to cut the shaft back where it was larger in diameter (back about 1/4" from where the unit I had was broken). You can see where I did that above. Then I joined the 3/32" OD and 1/16" OD pieces and soldered them carefully together, filing off the end nicely. And then I enlarged the hole in the speedometer bushing from 1mm diameter to 1/16" diameter. Then everything was joined as I showed above using a bit of solder with the 3/32" OD collar I had made. The 3/32" OD brass tubing fits almost perfectly over the shaft piece. I cut this shaft back to give myself room to work with the soldering gun without danger to anything. I used solder and only a small bit since doing it that way I could take it apart. The piece you see below is one I made after I fixed the speedometer here the other day. I didn't know what you might find or what you might do and thought you might need it. If you want it, contact me by email and tell me your postal address. jon_goodman@yahoo.com

As for the question about the decals (stickers, actually)...we get the same sort of sun you get and those stickers won't last very well at all. Again nothing against the sellers of those. But those were made for trucks that aren't used very often and spend lots of time in a pampered setting. And I hate to be a harbinger of doom, but the stickers you put on your gauge faces and speedometer may not last much better. But then again they might. Some people have said theirs did. I think it may be solely a matter of how the underlying surface was prepared.

I posted another note about the size of the tip of the unit I made. Turns out the hub part of the needle is larger than 3/32 by a hair in both cases, so at the worst you might need to use a dot of Plasti-Dip or glue or silicone...something to help hold it. All the shaft does is to move the speedometer needle around, so it doesn't need to be heavy duty as long as all is relatively secure. It isn't like a ceiling fan where the blades could come off and do some real damage. Good luck and let me know if you want the piece I've made.

Attached Files
needle fix 1.JPG (22.3 KB, 106 downloads)
needle fix 2.jpg (16.63 KB, 105 downloads)

Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1399500 Mon Mar 01 2021 03:16 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,987
J
'Bolter
Ah, sorry...saw your question about separating the hub from the remaining shaft piece. I just use a pair of needle-nosed pliers, grip the shaft and carefully pry the hub off with a small screwdriver...working first one side and then the other. About the speedometer needle hubs, they're all the same with GM...at least for a multi-year span. I've attached 3 images. Two are showing a hub I made for a new needle a few years ago. When you buy the new needles, you don't get the hub to which it attaches. A bit of aluminum, some brass tubing and JB Weld are all you need to make a new one. I made this one to fit over a 1/16" piece of brass tubing. I could also have made it to fit over a 3/32" piece of brass tubing (what was used to recreate the original end piece) by using 1/8" OD brass tubing, but at that time I was planning on using this on custom unit I was making. In one image you'll see where it fits over the 1/16" OD tubing. And in another image, you'll see a hub from some other GM product showing the inside diameter of the portion that fits over the shaft is 1mm. Hope this helps. Those hubs are pretty easy to make. The trick is remembering your geometry well enough to find the center of a circle...

Attached Files
Hub 1.JPG (24.25 KB, 106 downloads)
Hub 2.JPG (23.95 KB, 109 downloads)
Hub 3.JPG (22.86 KB, 105 downloads)

Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1399501 Mon Mar 01 2021 03:18 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,987
J
'Bolter
And to answer another question you might have about image 1 and 2, I left the extending part long because I didn't know the distance to the face plate on the speedometer I was making...

Last edited by Jon G; Mon Mar 01 2021 03:19 PM.

Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1399542 Mon Mar 01 2021 06:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 22,144
H
'Bolter
Sort of closing the barn door after the horse bolts, but here's a sneaky trick to avoid breaking the next shaft that's worked for me in the past. Clamp a pair of surgical hemostats onto the shaft just below the needle, and use it as a fulcrum to pry the needle off. That avoids putting any stress on the shaft further down if you're careful how you pry the needle off.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1399678 Tue Mar 02 2021 07:40 AM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 39
C
' 51 Chevy 3/4T, 5 window - mostly stock
Thanks Joh and Jerry. The clamp would have done it. Sadly I have oogles of surgical hemostats.....

Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement: Mark Twain a few years back.
Think of all the cool things I learned though

will mess with it this weekend and let you know whats up.
Clem


Clem Donahue; Berkeley
'51 chevy 3600 3/4 ton, rebuilt 235; 6V still, 96% stock
'65 ford ranchero
Re: '51 speedo needle removal
Clem Donahue #1400638 Tue Mar 09 2021 03:29 AM
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 39
C
' 51 Chevy 3/4T, 5 window - mostly stock
Stovebolters....

Sorry moving slowly on this, so many moving parts to a day..... but want this to come out cool and working.....

Got it apart (see photos), and ordered the pin drill, so will be good to drill. I'll sleeve below the cross bar and cut new brass rod the same size, drilling out with the pin drill the center bushing in the cross bar, but then when I get to the knurled little head, should I drill that out same size. and then solder all, being gingerly with the solder, and making sure the entire thing is the right length, and the needle sweeps flat across the dial in the speedo.

Thanks
Clem

Attached Files
Speedo, end of brass center pin 1.jpg (10.24 KB, 53 downloads)
Speedo, end of brass center pin 2.jpg (22.32 KB, 54 downloads)
Speedo, end of brass center pin 3.jpg (22.58 KB, 53 downloads)

Clem Donahue; Berkeley
'51 chevy 3600 3/4 ton, rebuilt 235; 6V still, 96% stock
'65 ford ranchero
Page 2 of 4 1 2 3 4

Moderated by  ndkid275 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4