Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop Fuel pump bleeding

Folks,

1950 216, with 3 spd.

Son borrowed my ute this morning and it stopped on him, we ended up towing home rather than trying to fix it on the side of the road.

Once home we realised it had no fuel, so appears fuel sender is no good, however we filled the tank and she still wont start, the glass bowl is having bubbles appear in with the fuel and is not pushing anything forward.

We filled the carb and she started and ran until carb emptied.

We did this three times but the fuel is still not moving through the fuel pump, is there a bleed process for these glass bowl pumps or is it likely the pump simply died when she was empty.

Thanks in advance

Steve

My experience is that the pump does not need bleeding in this situation or any situation, it’s self priming and will pick up fuel fast.

Just for sanity check, open the gas cap when you try to crank it over with known good fuel level in the tank.

If no gas is leaking out the drain hole under the pump the main diaphragm isn’t shot
And if the pump isn’t working but not leaking that means it might just need a thorough cleaning to work again
The check valves in the pump rarely go bad they just need to be cleaned most of the time.
The cam arm might be worn out or broken but that’s easy to fix compared to the rest of it, assuming you are not shy with the welder

If I was you I would just take the pump out and break it down on the bench
Thorough inspect and clean all parts and reassemble it
That way you know it’s good.
-s

It's possible the pump has picked up debris from the bottom of the tank as it ran dry and the one-way valves in the inlet and outlet of the pump might be stuck open. Try disconnecting both fuel lines at the pump and put a quick shot of compressed air through the pump in the direction the fuel normally flows. Then reconnect the lines and see if the pump works. It might also be a good idea to put a disposable fuel filter between the tank and the pump.
Jerry

So we pulled the pump, stripped it down, it was putrid and full of gunk.

Primed the carby and then started her gain, she ran for 1 minute before she died.

The fuel level in the pump is not getting above the top screen in the glass bowl.

Disconnected the fuel line to the tank and fitted a protable fuel tank up front, primed her and she ran no problems for 10 minutes before we turned her off.

Stripped and cleaned the lines all the way back to the fuel tank with an air compressor, section by section, found a couple of small bits in the line

Started her up and she ran for a little while before she konked out.

It appears the pump pressure (vacuum draw) is very very weak, so short fuel line to tank no issues, long fuel line and its too much for the pump to draw

So still trying to work out what could be broken or blocked

Steve

it was pretty dirty

We also pulled up the bed floor, The fuel sender had a hole in the float and was rusted solid, hence the fuel gauge not working properly, tested the electrical circuit and it was fine, just bad unit.

May have to drop the tank tomorrow and flush it right out as well

Steve

Gunked up gas tank. Needs a good cleaning or replacement.

I had the same issues.
1. Like stated Above, Clean the tank out or replace.
I cleaned mine out. Several times.
2. Add an in-line fuel filter.
3. Since I did both , Zero issues.
You can see the Tiny Crap the filter has caught from tank after the tank was cleaned out several times.

Good luck.

In line filter is the way to go especially if you suspect the tank is fouled up. Easy to look for debris and change filter as needed.

A good mechanical fuel pump must pass three tests- - - -volume, pressure, and vacuum. I've been preaching that gospel for 20-something years on this site, and to the best of my knowledge, nobody has ever followed the proper testing procedure on a fuel pump. I've given up on even trying to pass that knowledge on!
Jerry