Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Repair your headlight switch...tutorial

Jon
I was just messing with the headlight switch from my '51. It's different than the ones you've been working on, in that the slider is a metal box, no bakelite, and the rod doesn't release from the switch at all, but the knob screws off and has a setscrew. Maybe it's an early replacement style. I got a 12V repop for cheap and it's the same, except has a 20A circuit breaker instead of the 30A one on the original switch. Also the pot for the dash lights has a different resistance. What I was able to do was disassemble both switches and swap the pot (the slider on the 6V switch was broken off and making the rod bind up) and the circuit breaker. I now have a serviceable 6V switch to use. Here's a pic of the parts I have leftover after converting the 12V repop switch to 6V.

Kevin, thanks very much for this! I've seen one of these in the past, but I don't know who made it. And I have a copy of it which I believe was made in Taiwan (which I've not disassembled yet). I'm impressed you were able to swap the pot for the dash lights. I noticed the resistance of that coil was different on the one I have. I'm away for a bit but will check the circuit breaker when I get back.

Jon
The 30A circuit breaker on the switch I took off the truck was a Made in USA Litelfuse. The switch body had Made in USA stamped in two places, bottom under where the pot mounts and on the front (normally covered by the circuit breaker.)
The 12V switch has no markings on it except for 20A on the circuit breaker and 12V stamped on the bottom of the switch body.
Maybe I should have swapped out the switch body as well, to keep the Made in USA markings.

Both look just like Jim Carter's 1936 -1955 Headlight Switch 6 Volt Close to Original Chevrolet and GMC Pickup Truck Item # EL149

I know, I know, but I have to brag on Jon. he saved me time and money on my 54. I didn't even have to take it loose. Had plenty of room with it hanging under the dash. Works like new. Again, Thanks Jon. Ed

JonG Long ago on one of my first trucks the switch got stiff so I took out the knob slid a WD 40 tube way in there discharged it and pulled out spraying. Switch worked fine after that,do you see any problem doing that ??

No, I don't. As long as the bakelite in there hasn't broken, that is. As I mentioned, this happens sometimes and when it does, those chips fall down and stop the slider from making full travel. As long as it is working, all should be ok. Taking them apart and cleaning/restoring as I've shown makes them just like new again, however.

Jon,
You have seen my shop so when I say something is lost it is not only possible but probable. With this said I have a quart jar of bakelite replacements that a circuit board place in Addison made for me 40 (or more) years ago. Done as a favor by the shop foreman in exchange for ignition work on his 37 Ford. All this rambling to say you might check with somewhere for a replacement part being made. Reality is they would probably want an order for a thousand pieces. If I find the jar which is now about half full, it's yours.

Thanks Evan,
I did look for replacement parts several months ago but couldn't find any. And I of all people understand about things being misplaced. If you happen to run across this, I'll be very happy to drive out and get it, but please don't go on a hunt for it.

I'm bumping this to the top to make it easier for one gentleman to find it...

Thanks this worked out great my switch was stiff and I had to wiggle it to get the lights to go on sometimes ,turned out the contacts were dirty and all the grease was dried up and making it stiff . I also refurbished a spare they both had no broken pieces so I am in good shape .